Ian7

"sticking with 6 by 13 on the original Ital/Triumph 3 & 3/4 lug." these Panasports are exactly what you mention above, set of 5 cost $790 with nuts and centers back in 2002, from K-Speed in pennsylvannia http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/757677904_BN rightrear.JPG

Agree they are hardly priority items. My first 7 clone didn't have a hood, doors, or even windscreen wipers, or even any way to mount them regardless. This car came with all that in the 'kit', I installed it all for the 'rollout' photo, but its all been in the garage since. I don't drive off if the weather looks bad, and never carry it all with me 'just in case'. but murphy's law says the day after I sell it, well, you know... :7rain:

yikes, wouldn't have expected that large a difference, unless shipping something that big is WAY more than we'd guess. on that basis then, the value of my stuff is, what, 500 bucks? guess I'll just hang on to it. :7rain:

good idea; I guess I started it. sorry.

Just measured the remaining unmounted mirror, hole centers are a nice round [4 and 1/16"] apart. USA Caterham lists the hood for $697, sticks for $86, and doors for $550/pair. Is a grand too much?

Beautiful looking resto. Have to say though, that a 1700 w/45's might not be too street tractable, but of greater concern, the (Ferodo)DS11 brake pads couldn't be a worse choice for street use. (won't get hot enough, or stay hot, to be effective when needed) Minor fixes to an otherwise desirable car.

CORRECTION UPDATE: Forgot to mention that the doors have two small drilled holes in each where the stock mirrors used to be mounted. One mirror was broken as-rec'd, took both off but never replaced them with anything, as I use windscreen-frame mounted mirrors. Secondly, if anyone has any ideas how these might get packed for shipping... Thx

only of the top in place, doors are as per standard Caterhamhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1579402874_BN rightrear.JPG

Is there any demand for a Caterham Classic "increased visibility" hood, sticks, and matching doors with the elbow-room bulges? Never use them, might as well benefit someone else. Value?

can't blame her, man's a dirt-bag...

Been racing a long time, first time I've seen a 2 year note. Most racing sanctioning bodies have a 5 year limit, and some manufacturers will re-web your existing metal buckles with fresh belts to save you a bit of money.

Been away for a week. Current update: I earlier posted that fixing a plug wire made the problem go away for an around-the-block trip. Wrong!! Seems it was just the cooled coil that let it run a bit; once hot, it quit again. New coil has allowed many long drives since. Answer to previous poster - coil is vertical, and I still don't know why it fried; (maybe its Lucas and I didn't notice? :banghead: )

Not sure if this helps, but most brand-name harness manufacturers will reweb expired harnesses using the same metal bits to save you money. You could get them to shorten and resew your existing ones for even less I suspect. cheers

partial hijack? I have a stock Caterham windshield-mount center mirror I've never used. Free to good home if you pay shipping from Montreal, or meet me at NJMP weekend of Sept 20th. (Send me a message, I dont check here daily) Cheers

Been thinking about that, but with coil under the inlet manifold ('cooler' side of the engine bay), only improvement would be an air duct to it, or on the other side of the passenger footwell inside the cockpit. Ran fine for a 1000 miles, and surely other Kent engine owners have their coils in the engine bay.

Best stuff (at least best in an affordable environment) for bonding skins to tubes is Hysol. Easy to mix and apply. Absolute b*gger to get off years later, so it must work... Contact Aircraft Spruce in California or Georgia.

MISFIRE CURED ????? ok, so I started with the easy stuff, and found the metal tang on plug wire #1 broken off inside the boot. There's my misfire, right? Crimp on a new piece, and a quick trip around the block, and it seems fine. However, doesn't explain the stinking HOT coil (or does it? unlikely...), and secondly, wouldn't a three cylinder Kent still have enough power to drag this very light car up a very mild incline???

ongoing thanks... forgot to state this is a 1600 x-flow, simple as can be with exception of the mysterious (to me) Aldon electronic(?) dizzy hesitant to put a new coil on in case the problem caused the coil meltdown, then I'll have another dead coil and be no smarter... will try less expensive things first as someone suggested

no, will check, but I've run this car out of gas a few times, and it's been a very benign "stutter-cough-quiet" shut down. yesterdays misfiring could almost be described as mildly violent, showed no sign of ending prior to ignition key off. been suggested by a responder on another forum that the points of the dizzy might have closed up, but this Aldon dizzy has an electronic box inside instead of points; anyone experience this type of problem before? fixes (short of buy-a-new-one) ? thx

ok, so the Super7 came home from todays blat on a flatbed tow truck... GRRRRRRRR was driving along, everything seemed normal; noticed that the engine seemed to be popping a little; over several minutes got progressively worse, like the timing was off badly, but it ran fine 10 minutes ago; eventually got to the point where I thought the dizzy had drifted or come loose; now barely running, serious jerking, coughing, etc, barely a walking speed possible, like its on two cylinders (I'm on a bridge, can't stop) finally crested bridge, coasted to a halt; bonnet off, found nothing loose or obviously wrong; dizzy still tight (wont turn by hand), cap intact, etc here's the question - how hot does a coil get? mine's in the engine bay, on the frame under carburetors, so it sees overall engine bay temps, but it was WAY too hot to touch, I mean running-engine-exhaust-header hot, not rocker cover hot... normal? (info - basically everything on the car is 5 years / 1,000 miles old; battery new this spring) let the speculation begin. cheers, Ian

I don't know anything about this car (condition, quality, etc) but if its as nice as it looks, grab it at that price NOW! Given the rarity you acknowledge, I'd be asking that much for my Kent powered Caterham.

Maybe too late, but some pedal adjustment ideas based on the May 27th post picture. Here's what we do with big-feet drivers in our formula cars: 1. remove the clutch pedal pad entirely, just use the arm; round off any resulting rough edges. maybe even torch-and-bend the arm a bit to the left. 2. cut off the brake pedal pad and reweld it biased to the left side of the brake arm, and it still clears the steering column; should have size 11 space between each of the three pedals now. 3. if height is also an issue, cut out the floor and drop it an inch or so using the caterham 'seat lowering' technique common in england. (see blatchat).

I don't think the original poster mentioned price, maybe he'll jump in here and define "affordable". The MoTeC system in my race car cost $10,000... The DashDaq mentioned above is either $700 or $1450... the iPhone app is a $12.95 download.

I recall seeing someone post recently looking for affordable data acquisition; here's something interesting: http://www.autoblog.com/2008/07/29/dynolicious-turns-iphone-into-cheap-performance-meter/

nope, just the basic version; even if it was wider, the contours around the headlights would still result in a disappointing fit.