Ian7

Maybe too late, but some pedal adjustment ideas based on the May 27th post picture. Here's what we do with big-feet drivers in our formula cars: 1. remove the clutch pedal pad entirely, just use the arm; round off any resulting rough edges. maybe even torch-and-bend the arm a bit to the left. 2. cut off the brake pedal pad and reweld it biased to the left side of the brake arm, and it still clears the steering column; should have size 11 space between each of the three pedals now. 3. if height is also an issue, cut out the floor and drop it an inch or so using the caterham 'seat lowering' technique common in england. (see blatchat).

I don't think the original poster mentioned price, maybe he'll jump in here and define "affordable". The MoTeC system in my race car cost $10,000... The DashDaq mentioned above is either $700 or $1450... the iPhone app is a $12.95 download.

I recall seeing someone post recently looking for affordable data acquisition; here's something interesting: http://www.autoblog.com/2008/07/29/dynolicious-turns-iphone-into-cheap-performance-meter/

nope, just the basic version; even if it was wider, the contours around the headlights would still result in a disappointing fit.

My very expensive cover direct from Caterham fits the rear of my stock caterham perfectly, but is about a foot too narrow at the front; go figure... (no its not an SV)

I like it in general, but agree that the headlights could not be WORSE with any amount of effort :ack: . The grill could be less... obvious?... as well, but overall, a step in an 'ok' direction for non-traditionalists (of which I'm not one)

"Have you thought about putting the engine in the back and sitting closer to the front wheels?" ... and you'd have a T-Rex by Campagna

" 2. reverse installation... 3. the cable is too long.. " I started to type "...but they are stock Caterham parts installed by Caterham... " then caught myself laughing out loud. I'll go check

Thanks guys. Binding was my first thought as well, but at 1000 miles from new? I guess anything's possible. More info: Should have added that the occilation is very smooth, almost a perfect 'sine wave' effect. If its binding, its doing it very 'smoothly', as contradictory as that sounds. Also noted that contrary to my initial post, the magnitude of the occilation seems to be proportional to speed, and while accelerating hard, it does still occilate.

Hi Guys Anyone else out there with a Caterham brand mechanical drive speedo that occilates +/- 5 mph while driving at a steady speed? Mine was fine when new, but occilations started at maybe the 500 miles-from-new point, now does it continuously regardless of what constant speed I'm doing. Anyone else experienced this, and more hopefully, found a fix? As I write this, I realize I've never looked at it during hard accel to see what its doing; stay tuned...

snail-mail on its way as of this a.m. thx

sorry, been on the road a while, where do we send the ca$h? thx

looking for 4x 40F9 idle and 4x 180 air jets (can part-exchange or sell outright 4x 115 main jets if interested) cheers

Aftermarket roll-over bar? Wrapped in naugahyde? otherwise, STUNNING

"combination of excellent instructions, all in the box components & close to zero fabrication requirements." well, can't speak for others, but my Caterham barely met the 'no fab' requirements... as for instructions and complete parts.... HA !

Top picture with the three-piece female spline hub is a "burst"; all I can think is that huge misalignment of the male/female parts caused this, but not sure how to generate that much misalignment without something else going wrong first. Bottom right picture of shaft failure is classic torsional overload, giving the "45 degree twist" appearance. Check the fracture surface for internal flaws in the material.

"The splined hub at the wheel end shattered into several pieces and the shaft itself sheared inside the differential" OK, it strikes me there is way more than a simple failure here. If you overload a part in torsion, or fatigue it through repeated overstress, you're typically going to get a failure at a single weakest spot in the part. "Shattered in to several pieces" as you say seems somewhat alarming to me...

I'd be cautious about throwing money at better (and presumably more expensive) replacements until the failure of the old ones is better understood. So many questions possible: has it always done this? if not, whats new in hardware and/or usage? are all shafts from same supplier? same batch? where are they breaking? at a stress riser? same place on each shaft or random? any flaw in material obvious on exposed internal surfaces? is failure a torsional overload, or a fatigue over a period of time (fracture surface tells you this) etc etc

If you are ok with the high-30's price, and don't have your heart set on building it yourself, you could be driving in any number of cars by next week I should think.

You'd be amazed, (I know I am), at how many times I've won a million UK Pounds in their National Lottery this year alone... ... and all I have to do is wire them my bank info for the transfer.

Converted to your gallons, and with the dollars at par, just over 6 bucks for premium... :banghead:

hmmm, 1400 miles thats only 15% farther than our Atlanta LOG trip, but we were 10 years younger then... sounds like a challenge

thx, no. vacuum advance adds extra complications, and I'm not convinced thats the best way to go regardless. cheers

Long story short, I'm looking for a non-vacuum, non-points distributor, same as or similar to the Aldon Automotive modified one. Points/condensor version considered under the right circumstances I guess. Please state which advance curve you have in any replies. New, NOS, or good used all considered. Thanks. Ian 450-550-6222 (ianmacp7) (at) (gmail) (dot) (com)

did you hear "so I built a jet engine and stuck it in..." yikes!