Ian7
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Everything posted by Ian7
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don't know the details of this app, but my intuition says you'll likely have to manually input a "time from this spot" location; suggest you pick the slowest point on the track to minimize errors due to limited accuracy of gps' instantaneous location reading. (had an iPhone for a month now; totally distracting...) :yesnod:
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Anyone know what the so-called "metric" chassis is that is often referred to on BlatChat? (not a member there, so can't post directly) thx
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OMG !! how'd it handle on the way to the track ? kinda curious about the "lighbulb" moment that preceeded that
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hopefully not a highjack, but I just love the idea of someone in Alaska with a 7; and I thought our season was short
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:hurray: the more 7's on the road, the better... just gotta ask though, top photo, a trailer hitch?
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B... D... A... !! B... D... A... !!
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Nice photos... not that I had ANY reason to doubt it, but yeah, honest-to-god BDA and honest-to-god series 2 flexi-flyer chassis. At risk of being self-serving, you might want to split them up into two separate sales. (Guess which one I want )
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here's a guy who has one still in the box, about $400 to get it into the states... http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?Id=161349
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http://www.autoblog.com/2008/11/24/ebay-find-of-the-day-1952-ariel-square-four-wooden-racer/ here's another "not a seven" with the engine in the back, but style points for originality
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sorry, just noticed the car is in their "sold" list, so doesn't matter.
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ok, agreed. how about this then............... http://twintechcars.com/
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Hmmm, a Formula Atlantic engine, even detuned to 190hp, sounds like an awful lot to put in a series 2 chassis. Wasn't the series 3 frame a reinforced version of the '2' because the '2' was having trouble with half that power level?
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http://www.cannillomotorsports.com/pastinventory/super7/super7.htm Series 3 by description and photo, but chassis number SB2663 should be on a series 4 by more than one reference I found. Anyone have any definitive info? Thanks
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Doesn't a used car have to be at least 25 years old to be legally imported to the US? Up here it's 15 years...
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... and I should have addressed your primary concern: I too cannot fathom the difference as it crosses the pond. I've shipped entire cars from england without the benefit of economies of scale or wholesale pricing, etc and it sure isn't $15k. I guess what it truly reflects is free market economy, "I've got this, I want this much for it; too much for you? fine, don't buy it" attitude. I wanted a Caterham bad enough to pay 30, but not bad enough to pay 60. Everyone's got their window of tolerance
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A lot depends on what you want the car for. Differences between England and USA notwithstanding, the $ range I don't understand is the difference across Caterham models. Sure you can option up a $75k+ killer car, but there are some really nice Zetec's for sale for under $30k, and its hard to believe that they aren't wonderfully enjoyable. (My live axle x-flow might be too spartan / slow /crude for some, but it too is a blast to drive).
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what, they don't plow there ?
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maybe this suits your budget for the short term; about $8500US usual no associations, etc, just stumbled across it http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-Lotus-7-W0QQAdIdZ87154270
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from some angles, that Sonic7 looks like it should drive down the beach and slide into the water amphibiously ... fine line, this personal taste stuff; hate this Sonic7, but keen on that Australian Elfin from a few weeks back.
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side curtains ?... BAH!
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I remember that point in the build... ... you'll be done in a matter of days
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http://www.superlitecars.com/roadster_spec.html actually pretty close to a bike-engined Formula Ford
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Something to consider if you know your car is going to sit for weeks on end: every couple of weeks or so, I go out to the car, put it in gear, right foot on brake, left foot depresses clutch, and bump the starter... this spins the flywheel (while holding the clutch friction disc in place) so that they lose their desire to 'bond' over time.
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maybe put a cooling system pressure tester on the car and look/listen for the leak?
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If your "nearly new" clutch disc is organic and got oiled by a bad tranny seal, sorry but throw it away...
