Austin David

@MV8: measuring at the sender in ohms, with my fluke held in bare hands. The values are probably pretty good, but may vary at the gauge "empty" -- could still draw fuel and run, but gauge at the bottom of sweep. 111 + 2.5g, gauge reads slightly above 1/4: 219 <driving around a lil> +3g (estimate > 5g in tank), gauge reading above 1/2 (not settled): 341 +2.5g / full: gauge F, 464 ohms

I replaced the internals in my fuel tank. The plastic hanger is replaced with a printed piece, using PCTG which is stiff and fuel-resistant. I used 1/2" aluminum bar for the standoff, and made the bright orange mount for my original level sensor / sender. The sender portion is orange because if it somehow gets loose, I want to be able to find it in the future. Both parts are PCTG, which should be very fuel / heat tolerant, and are easy to print. The lid portion is pretty thick, lots of walls. There are two bulkhead fittings for the wires, I could have done one (in retrospect). I like the symmetry tho, and won't change it unless I have another reason to reprint the mount. The through-fittings are sealed with permatext fuel gasket stuff, which I determined is extremely fuelproof. The design of the original lid holds a sort of air bubble between the fuel tank and the through fittings; I assumed this was a deliberate feature, to be sure there wasn't an obvious through fitting below the waterline when the tank is full. Because I put the sender standoff on that vertical aluminum brace, I was able to relocate it slightly futher south and can take advantage of the full swing of the sensor. Experiments pending a dry day, but at "very nearly dry" the gauge sits at the bottom, and adding 2.5g measured it reads just above 1/4.

I don't -- it's just an accidental feature of having something that will try to connect to wifi, without interfering with normal "brakelight" operation. I don't really need the wifi either, but it doesn't hurt anything and makes it a lot easier to manage without popping open a box in my trunk.

Thanks! I made them, it's about 50 LEDs and a microcontroller in the boot. It's BRIGHT, with active brake/turn. The signalling is wired in to the corner lamps, and powered separately. The MCU is wifi-aware and will sync time when it's near my house. If you're serious I can write up a parts list. I have extras of a lot of it. The power draw is low enough it could run directly off the rain lamp or tail lights.

I forgot I did this, but saw it last night while testing my fuel pump -- the rollbar light goes red/green for the month of December, in "running" mode. Brakes/Turn are still the normal colors.

some near-finished shots of the new fuel pump and hanger assembly. My return (factory pump + return line) was feeding directly down into the bottom of the fuel tank. The "standard" surge-like tank looks as if it's meant to dump return into the basin with the pump; the deadhead setup has the 90psi (?) regulator overflowing back into that tank. I suspect -- have not tried to confirm -- my return, dumping fuel into the tank and not that surge basin, led to a single low-fuel starvation event. But generally I have been frustrated with a 10g tank and maybe 7 gallons usable. Following @JohnCh lead, I mounted a Walbro 255lph pump on a hydramat. I re-used the stock sensor, see my bright orange standoff. It's mounted a little lower, and I think it will now fully sweep from F all the way down to "E" being truly empty. The lid is designed and printed; there are two bulkheads, but I could get both power and sensor wires through one without trouble. With the "custom" Al hanger, the hydramat is sitting at the very bottom of the tank, and the return is dumping right back on it as intended. I did run a wiring test with the mat almost entirely OUT, trying to drain my lines... it works as well as advertised. With only about an inch submerged it was still pulling full pressure, and the return splashing right back onto the mat and most of that getting sucked back in properly.

awesome! The literature wasn't clear if that pump was a true positive displacement or not. On inspection I can clearly see it has their "gerotor" internals, and looks like a check valve up top also. Thanks!

@JohnCh what model fuel pump did you end up with?

say more. Do we have leaves or did that happen already? I forget -- I used to work in the foothills but I've been lowcountry-locked since the covid

If we're doing selfies...

In front of the shifter, I assume. I looked at placement in that area and didn't love it -- had to be too far forward to clear the shifter, and was too tall (phone too wide) to sit well. Have you figured something out?

That's fantastic. IIRC those are pretty good numbers from a 1.6. I don't recall the intake from the NA -- is that a new manifold, or did you just clean up the original really, really well? Interesting that they make you fit a bumper but not a catalyst. The paint looks good with sunshine on it!

having gotten it where you want it, how long before you have to go back to re-polish? is this like an annual medium/fine project, or can you keep it washed and waxed / coated, and go a couple years between applications?

Are you required to have a bumper? The thing you made looks great but I'm wondering what others in Canada do. As a kit does it have to meet the modern specs, or can you skate by on the original 7s design (no bumper) ?

I already ran the fuel pump, and more or less followed your lead with the filter. Literally the cheapest part of this project, an inline filter costs about as much as a single AN-6 fitting. I just "need" to re-hang the pump (or maybe a new one) to get access to the last ~ 8L in the tank. I've had more success with PETG-CF and fuel over time, PA creep kinda weirds me out in an important application. I see there's also options for epoxy coating if it ever gets weird. Thanks for the added photos, those answer my questions!

@JohnCh -- I think I starved my "stock" in-tank pickup last weekend with a relatively calm left turn, 209 miles on the tank. After it stalled I let it sit a sec, it fired back up and no further issues; I was already on the way to the fuel station. For the record it took 7.463 up to top of the neck. I went back over your build and I think I understand your final in-tank setup, but I'd like to confirm: - positive displacement pump - hydramat, offset, directly on the bottom of the pump - pump hanging from a custom 3d-printed lid, ported for the two lines + a few passthroughs for the pump + gauge lines And I saw a note that the hydramat slightly above the tank floor Questions: 1) why not position the pump and mat directly on the tank floor? is it just an issue of getting the hanger exactly right, or was there another problem? 2) did the mat fit under the baffle, or did you need something small enough to fit on the left-hand side of the tank, before the baffle? 3) what material did you use to print the lid, and can you share the STL? Given the clearance under the boot floor I'm pretty sure I'd like to angle and offset the fuel lines, but I'd love to see what you ended up with. 4) I assume it is still working well after a few years (and hopefully many miles) of use

Great wheel choice, those look awesome

*cough*vacation*cough*

fwiw I also have hte phone, VHB-taped to the right of my wheel, approximately not blocking the oil pressure, water gauge, and blinker switch. I use a scosche magnet mount and the phone has not departed yet.

that looks great. I like the original mount because it can fold down and under my tonneau cover, which I use a lot. Grabbed a couple quick shots of the mount this morning while tuning ... note that I usually just leave the device attached, I had it off this weekend to charge it and haven't moved it back.

Mine (moto 1) is stuck on with VHB tape and the bracket. I could print whatever if you cover shipping. I like the bracket because it puts the gauge up above and to the right of the wheel, where it's closer to my line of sight.

bumping this thread for a leaves viewing? Had the wettest summer imaginable (and not in the good way), looking forward to actually getting away from the house for Summer III / Fall Preview

I was actually planning to use this for a trip up torward Greenville, and in the occasion that I talked one of my boys into going with me. For solo trips I definitely have enough space in the passenger seat. Hopefully if we get a good dry weekend I'll be able to get up that way in a few weeks

@UglyFast asked for pics, but maybe interesting for others? I made up a little cargo net for my boot. There are snaps to fit the aft-facing boot cover, then loops to go inside the cockpit on a few knobs i've got velcroed to the carpet. The material is 1/16" UV-friendly bungee, plus leather for the snaps. It's pretty stretchy, enough to stay attached and still pull over anything I can fit under the rollbars. The outer two snaps on both side have an extra gap to make room for the rollbar. The 1/16" bungee is light enough that it should hold just fine on the snaps without popping loose, but strong enough to keep my stuff from flying into the road. Intended use: loosen the boot cover and roll it up inside the boot Pack backbacks / duffels / etc in the boot, under the rollbar Stretch the bungee over the stuff, fastening in the back and front