MV8

Smoked Stalker in SC for $8800. Salvage title but can rebuilt or use it as a donor. Looks like a bit of a mess under the bonnet before they let out the smoke with the fuel line connection to the rail, but they caught it quick! Quick fix except for the title and body work. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1864005417613387/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general_listing&tracking={"qid"%3A"-7732722064181976366"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"7840359044284217840"%2C"top_level_post_id"%3A"7840359044284217840"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A7840359044284217840%2C\"target_type\"%3A6%2C\"primary_position\"%3A1%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A5464583444510208051%2C\"ranking_request_id\"%3A8767235574782264017%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A501%2C\"value\"%3A0.0013376484554871%2C\"upsell_type\"%3A129%2C\"candidate_retrieval_source_map\"%3A{\"26293840190218000\"%3A3502%2C\"25238770792453408\"%3A3070}%2C\"grouping_info\"%3Anull}"}

What issue?

Fear not. "950" cast into the block means it is started as a 948. No umbrella needed.

Piecing together a triple carb setup like on the XKE 4.2l or Datsun 240Z, but I will probably end up using 40mm bike CV carbs. Intake is set up for four bolt mounting flange SU, 1.5 to 1.75 bore.

Lay pinches of playdoh or plasticine clay (available at hobby craft stores) around the outside corner of the pressure plate , add a trash bag, then install the bell on the block. Remove bell and bag to check how thick it still is on the PP. I'd like to see at least a 1/4" of clearance.

Sevenamerica had a spare set:

Threaded cup: https://kelvedonlotus.co.uk/product/gear-lever-nut-alloy-cortina/ To make a shifter that needs a 1/2 inch ball, and you don't want to have a machinist turn it from one piece of steel rod, a ball stud can be screwed or pressed and loctited into 1/2" low carbon rod as the basis for the shifter. An inverted bolt can be welded to the handle end if you don't want to die cut your own threads. 1/2" ball stud with shank that could be pressed into a rod/shift lever: https://www.ebay.com/itm/385926021248?_skw=ball+stud&itmmeta=01KD04JG4BRRY4CZWDQXCDZGYF&hash=item59dafbc080:g:3FsAAOSwhUZk0pe9&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dJ6s5rmLsqmFIDA8Dj1tgLlxfKK4WCT7RWpBxuKFixriNO76IrFoVJrbnlMgkbkmmhCRqqCuVxKt57jYARwUtTFVd0Pgo4Ldi2%2FDoguihnalF4WpCtE2tf5JEG7b%2BaFsriM0pbEgfH7vuCGi0KkItgljsMUGN8Smn2VOsSLPo6UVN2wc8RkCC88wVXh5i4PKgLoV3SjN0XO2B8w9crwh4M4KQeljnQ1GJjII95UWsQSjg%2FcFLG12Sio8RmKb3xFXE%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8qCyoToZg

Here is the basic ideal for a no mod shifter extension. The block can be steel or aluminum.

Yes, they will fit a 3 rail. Yes, the bells are not original to a Lotus or CAT. No, this is not for a Lotus or CAT. The point was to show the block and trans bolt patterns.

The block will have 950 cast into it below the carbs to the right of the fuel pump. A 1098 will not. A 1275 will also not have side covers under the exhaust to access lifters. There are tags that provide indications but they are all removable.

FWIW, here are kent and an early lima bell to accept the same trans (E, Type 9,bullet 2000e, etc).

Have you verified that all the bellhousing bolts align on the block? Looks to be a "bullet" 2000E 4 speed. Post a pic of the front and back of the bellhousing and the short block. Could be an odd-ball kent/EAO application bell for a euro external rail shifter transmission like the Reliant Scimitar with a Type 5. Most all domestics in the early 70s were external rail (all linkages on one side) with the euros having internal rail or very compact external rails for clearance in smaller vehicles. One possibility is the bell is for a pinto lima. Some limas had both patterns back then and some bells may have been made with both as well. If you have a bell that accepts lima application transmissions and fits the block, that would be a huge plus. Since this is a kit car, I would consider either an axle with a ratio near 3:1 or an overdrive transmission like a T5 from a mustang or tbird turbo coupe (lima, 3.8 v6, 5.0l v8 with some variation in input shaft length), Type 9 from a merkur (kent/EAO trans apps), Toyo Koygo 5 spd from a ranger (lima), or an early M50RD1 from a ranger (lima).

The spring inside the clutch master must be sufficient with no cable friction to overcome.

It pulls the clutch pedal toward the floor enough to keep the clutch cable from going slack so the pedal will return to the same position. Attachment is above the pedal pivot to where the clutch master would be. I've not seen a spring on an S2 brake pedal. To hook the spring, a tab from sheet metal or a loop of 12ga wire can be bolted on to the master bracket.

A 2015 recommendation range might be better than one from the 2014 manual. Both are a long way from 2024 but better than nothing. There is no right or wrong; just preferences. Last owners manual I saw was from 2021 and didn't mention it.

Also, some bottom covers have a center drain plug. I expect they interchange (same corner hole spacing).

Is everything ok? Your questions don't make sense considering all that's been posted.

It previously ran through the auction system with declared engine damage. Looking like it has been sitting on the auction lot in the weather for probably about 18 months. At the buy now, it would cost me another $1500 or so in fees plus I'd need a way to get it here quickly or more fees. Frame/control arm bent left rear. Looks like they moved the spare to the left rear as it was badly bent. Mechanics dream!?!#

A few more: https://www.youtube.com/@rattlecoonracing1047/videos

Fwiw, these use Mk3 and newer Ford Cortina / Taunus spindles and axle with the kit coming from South Africa. Not sure what the application is for the tie rods acting as upper and lower balljoints. Any replacement parts info in the documentation that came with the car? EDIT: Reportedly a Ford Transit Van tie rod but not 2010-2013 (female) or 2014-2019 (bent and same as a focus). Appears to be Mk3 1986-1991, right side for right-hand thread, 880X3270SA.

I found some pics of the front end geometry. I would remove the upper control arm pivot brackets from the chassis and lower them an inch or so. This improves camber gain, affects bump steer, and provides more droop travel before bind. It also allows more adjustment for static camber and the ride height will not be changed.

Here is a cross flow in a RM8. The typical CAT mount and arm is barely visible.

Looks right to me. Assuming your coilovers are height adjustable, the rear ground clearance to the chassis side rail at the front of the rear tire should be 165-205mm with the front of the rail near a front tire 15mm lower than the rear.

Looks like a PO used a tapered sleeve to eliminate the taper in the spindle and use a high strength bolt with spacers to set a rod end as an outer tie rod. Very important that the bolt be very tight so it can't spin when turning, as this loses the benefit of a tapered seat to keep the wear point within the tie rod instead of the bolt rotating in the spindle with each turn. Bump steer from ride height to a couple inches of bump is the important area to minimize bump steer. Depending on the car design, a car can have positive and negative bump through the arc of travel. The upper balljoint (actually a repurposed tie rod) is running out of travel. It could be improved by balancing the range of motion needed between full bump with the coil over installed, the "donut" bump stop added to coilover shaft, no spring (to make life easier when checking) and full droop. In general, at ride height, the upper tie rod attachment is perpendicular to its taper pin inserted into the spindle. In other words, the joint can be set so it almost runs out of rotation at full bump so it can have more droop without running out of rotation. I'd remake the upper arm to have the threaded rod of the tie rod point below the upper control arm pivot axis instead of directly at it, then add a rubber bump stop to the lower chassis rail to contact the lower control arm near the pivot. Another option is to add droop limit straps. If you do not address this now, if you are not jumping rail road tracks, monitor regularly and replace whenever any vertical play is found in the upper tie rod.