MV8

Is everything ok? Your questions don't make sense considering all that's been posted.

It previously ran through the auction system with declared engine damage. Looking like it has been sitting on the auction lot in the weather for probably about 18 months. At the buy now, it would cost me another $1500 or so in fees plus I'd need a way to get it here quickly or more fees. Frame/control arm bent left rear. Looks like they moved the spare to the left rear as it was badly bent. Mechanics dream!?!#

A few more: https://www.youtube.com/@rattlecoonracing1047/videos

Fwiw, these use Mk3 and newer Ford Cortina / Taunus spindles and axle with the kit coming from South Africa. Not sure what the application is for the tie rods acting as upper and lower balljoints. Any replacement parts info in the documentation that came with the car? EDIT: Reportedly a Ford Transit Van tie rod but not 2010-2013 (female) or 2014-2019 (bent and same as a focus). Appears to be Mk3 1986-1991, right side for right-hand thread, 880X3270SA.

I found some pics of the front end geometry. I would remove the upper control arm pivot brackets from the chassis and lower them an inch or so. This improves camber gain, affects bump steer, and provides more droop travel before bind. It also allows more adjustment for static camber and the ride height will not be changed.

Here is a cross flow in a RM8. The typical CAT mount and arm is barely visible.

Looks right to me. Assuming your coilovers are height adjustable, the rear ground clearance to the chassis side rail at the front of the rear tire should be 165-205mm with the front of the rail near a front tire 15mm lower than the rear.

Looks like a PO used a tapered sleeve to eliminate the taper in the spindle and use a high strength bolt with spacers to set a rod end as an outer tie rod. Very important that the bolt be very tight so it can't spin when turning, as this loses the benefit of a tapered seat to keep the wear point within the tie rod instead of the bolt rotating in the spindle with each turn. Bump steer from ride height to a couple inches of bump is the important area to minimize bump steer. Depending on the car design, a car can have positive and negative bump through the arc of travel. The upper balljoint (actually a repurposed tie rod) is running out of travel. It could be improved by balancing the range of motion needed between full bump with the coil over installed, the "donut" bump stop added to coilover shaft, no spring (to make life easier when checking) and full droop. In general, at ride height, the upper tie rod attachment is perpendicular to its taper pin inserted into the spindle. In other words, the joint can be set so it almost runs out of rotation at full bump so it can have more droop without running out of rotation. I'd remake the upper arm to have the threaded rod of the tie rod point below the upper control arm pivot axis instead of directly at it, then add a rubber bump stop to the lower chassis rail to contact the lower control arm near the pivot. Another option is to add droop limit straps. If you do not address this now, if you are not jumping rail road tracks, monitor regularly and replace whenever any vertical play is found in the upper tie rod.

It would simplify to use CAT mounts(to alter if needed) and the CAT/Jag mount but you could use anything. Also ebay and rock auto. 1961-1971 Jaguar XKE. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1133930&cc=1290013&pt=5552&jsn=475&_nck=klTi1TtmdOi52wpk5ccv%2B%2BnJlM9bmmbsac2xq9GUecz8xf3CEFaD0IAavNS6epX19Z0zvr8WqGoO2cXlR%2B9%2BQxds90zqWWz1l9JHpnPPoejwT7pgPu7IjH346%2Fhk7vZOyd0aO40tGImVrZXIE%2FQolPQHkNpFqTperG2kf0701ZX2keeATvFRd20Q18DqXqAjuqk76hAKnpP3ppwCpcIg%2B9OJghIsUc9qnonKHX7e9gEPyq33umlRmOsETpTJSdUtKc8Eprbm%2FdRSVb70qos6yRFhGIQSovUCwgeskx%2FiL2yZH0VPsOkm%2FQ%3D%3D https://www.ebay.com/itm/285165493458?_skw=c18556+mount&epid=188979464&itmmeta=01KC3VSDXNDTZD5FMKZ9FSHV2K&hash=item4265301cd2:g:DCkAAeSw85ZoZVAM&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cMU36cMw18ZNs1hi%2FsrTjBBJAJ%2FBBzbafEoZmTt1KWdUIowTIksd8uFQ3PPkKvmCGH%2BF36Wy3ifU06%2B7fmn10%2BMKgYNVvhu68sY8eNeZgc%2FABX2XeDfi%2FRuVS0x2Ta%2FyC%2BNZ6CwfnzSlrfgoXmRho%2FwMaaCrqjJHB9V2qEwsoL0BmYXmLjRzCZ%2BF3Ts%2B%2BFaQat1jSm%2BFS3ydXC04p%2BfAYXhYoKEvcP2mjnpG%2B5aXueO29vPoc53rHvuM8S67pTbu6IoPa8IBZxLYnN3WEQ%2FfkVCSDErDn6ZOsgAtjA7wDiog%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_re5fvgZg

Looks like they took a Ford C-Max fuel level sender and flipped the resistor board 180. A typical late model, domestic Ford has either 10-180 or 180-10 with the board flipped depending on the application. If a person really wanted to keep the original gauge but wanted to swap the pump assy and not equipped to print, calibration modules are now only about $30 to make any gauge work with any sender.

RM Classics had two models that were essentially the same. The RM7 was the basic version while the RM8 had a bigger passenger compartment, better trimmings in leather, wider wheels, and adjustable suspension. Neither is so close a knock off that these parts would interchange and place the engine where it needs to be. The mounts I've seen are nothing like a Caterham, which typically have jaguar XKE mounts. Don't forget to set the driveshaft ujoint angles before fabbing between engine plates and mount plates. Post pics after everything is in place if you'd like suggestions on mount bracket design.

You might share pics with me by PM. It sounds like a cross flow. There are many things that can be done to mitigate the issue of fuel routing over the distributor. Ensure the plug wires are high quality and not carbon core that are more likely to short due to higher resistance new and worse with age/use. Use plug wire looms that prevent each wire from getting within an inch of any brackets or the block. I use universal spiral core v8 wire kits that are cut to length and include looms. Route the plug wires forward then up around to keep it away from the fuel. Move the ignition coil to near the front of the engine so the coil wire does not run aft of the distributor, under the carbs. Replace the fuel hoses every few years and whenever the hoses are not soft or any cracking can be seen. Use Gates Barricade fuel hose which has a nylon liner inside a traditional outer jacket and is compatible with ethanol blends. Use adjustable worm gear clamps instead of pinch or spring clamps. Check fuel pressure with a gauge whenever the pump is replaced and check it at high rpm as well if using an engine driven pump. Route the fuel hose aft along the top then down at the rear to the filter then on to the pump instead of forward then down in front of the front carburetor. If you want to continue: For when/if fuel does leak down for whatever reason, you could also fit a rubber distributor boot (come standard on many cars and trucks including landrover, ferrari, ford, nissan, etc). A distributorless ignition could be installed so there would be no high voltage wiring below the carbs. Copper sealing washers at the carb fuel inlet fittings/banjos should be annealed with a hand torch and piece of steel wire to hang them on, made to glow then quenched in water. This has the opposite effect that it would have on carbon steel.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-tc001?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-oils-fluids-sealer&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9-3SlsKmkQMVpZtaBR1KHiIMEAQYBCABEgJqfvD_BwE https://www.evapo-rust.com/thermocure-cooling-system-radiator-rust-remover/ Video is just an example of using it and not concurrence with the kids assumptions.

Replace the front adapters with 25mm thick.

I don't understand how New Hampshire could do that. Would you share this verification document? https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder/

The previous owner(s) may have used water without antifreeze for superior cooling but added a rust preventative. If not, the radiator core may be partially plugged with rust particles. I'd use a garden hose to flush everything into a basin to pour into a white bucket to see the condition. If no significant "muddy" water (just momentary flashes of solids pouring out), then just flush every hose each direction until water is clear, then fill with a 50% premixed coolant. If the level under the cap keeps going down without leaks, I'd suspect the head gasket is leaking internally to the exhaust. If the overflow level never goes down, I suspect the radiator cap outer sealing ring is torn or missing or head gasket.

Has anyone tried fitting the roller follower ohc lima 2.3l or 2.5l in place of a kent? The engine height to the valve cover is nearly identical but the exhaust is on the right. Then the common '80s ranger Toyo koygo 5 speed could be used as it should be narrower/lower torque capacity than a T5. 0.84:1 5th and would bolt up. OEM hydraulic release bearing so no external slave or cable clutch. An M50D-R1 from an '88 and newer lima ranger may fit but it would be wider/higher torque capacity. 0.79:1 5th.

What is the issue with the cooling system as-is? The filler should stay as full as it will hold under the cap and the level is maintained by the overflow. Minimum cold engine level in the overflow covers the hose end inside the overflow. If the filler neck is not kept full, then the cooling fan switch (unplugged in your picture) does not pickup the engine temp and the cooling fan doesn't come on when it should. I believe one wire goes to a chassis ground and the other to the fan motor to provide ground.

What is the resistance value at full and empty?

A ten inch wide opening at the front of the tunnel would make a T5 an option.

No interruption but why not use the other hose?

Clearance is also reduced from the wheel rocking on the bearings under inside wheel cornering load. How much depends on bearing setting, condition, and load. Probably the worst case when cold. The rear will move around on bushing compliance which will change with wear. Are the existing dampers not adjustable for the added unsprung weight?

You can tee this hose anywhere between the engine and the heater. If the expansion tank you select has a small port next to the filling cap, then it can be capped with fuel hose and clamps or tee'd into the overflow tank up front. The other heater hose could be used also even if the heater valve were left closed.

ok. I'll post a pic shortly.

Then all you need is a tee in the heater circuit (or the one you ordered to tee a radiator hose) and an expansion tank. Examples: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256717068259?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20240415110138%26meid%3Db75df59a2efe47d8be0a0a2eabdf5a5d%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D365014549820%26itm%3D256717068259%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11PairwiseFitmentPromotionV2WithCassiniQueryEmbRecallKatReco&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A256717068259b75df59a2efe47d8be0a0a2eabdf5a5d|enc%3AAQAKAAABQCggmqi%2BjGBvS8WShKTeLW5J2g6qXnzgH61T5t8ujPfO4ZJHWSDajmSreRV%2BXNto1elxKNVVM64kNmwVgiMN2szhK0tlR1011FXMzSAB1PUgkXdlAtp1SJ2P1Ia246YdDc6Lz8RqY5J3Udbo2ifiNz9Ty%2F0PHH1s8EKnHfOcCBzmEgRxCIN2Zn9HgmCS1k6AZeBNTMKlaZRZ2WNDksfpX44iTQnZvnI4Dt722Qdc8VyykIRbEgO5GisZJbzb%2B4%2B7btodHPi%2FWbaXOQkCse4E2DR5GNj%2FM8xvWUmB%2FJ%2BYhG2ozgYXZwg9jwK34x2WrP0aKibkYvLCbiZ37z%2FbLlNt3Na19qY6Y%2FHye68UsDQ9KEquaE22WvyPZmoo9fQfGWT7%2B6E4V9CTXmflBAIL0Q%2BeNeJ8GMtxahjs4rOKTrX8go4k|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01KBJQWRCSVA0EGAMN5S2HW764 A tee (assumes 1/2 inch hoses and fitting for expansion tank): https://www.ebay.com/itm/267284759799?_skw=heater+hose+tee&epid=230386134&itmmeta=01KBJR1N5F8BM5KNMCHP85WEX1&hash=item3e3b69c4f7:g:rcQAAOSwwt5oRyTA&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cwvKWLr3m5skZUhd7IzrdGPI5hLO6qnV81qhoM62naBqKkKn8KMIXKQ8JyDjr2v68JiSRbCJIhGEEvJ8IZY6OlP3hMT4r6RLSDdFuNO9MDivKi8zmuwWUcSrQqr0uNWRswARDTgDL8Gaxge%2BwLP8%2FRDMXxDCUeseGXbKziP6wcNhAZRBrsY4d5GytIEVmXFq1fNW9UtaMtPEX%2FlKzREgSb2LuZY0i%2FpMax%2FMh2eMXaP359dWD6ia6pK4Ur66mF5zI%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4jThtjcZg