MV8

I agree Dave, but they do that now to hide it imho. Not good for longevity of the sensor as water, oil, and fuel can collect in it on shutdown. Caryenta, closer pics of the induction system please to show your throttle control (ITBs or a single throttle body and if you have an IAC valve).

I expect the red lamp may be a redundant charging system failure light (I see the battery light in the tach). If the engine is running and the alternator is charging, it should go out. The gear indicator is larger and black with leds to show what gear the car is in. Probably just for sequential gear boxes. The immobilizer is the small bezel led between the oil pressure and coolant temp. With the throttle pedal to the floor, there should always be slight slack in the cable. This prevents throttle cable failure as it is weaker than your leg pressing with a 6 or 7:1 lever. I doubt it is necessary or good practice to be bending anything so it will idle properly.

Just lick the driver's side glass.

$103 kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/187467305509?_skw=12v+air+compressor+with+tank&itmmeta=01K95YK4RJDPX5N7SKMA5ESJJX&hash=item2ba5ec1225:g:avsAAOSwVjpmo2~c&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1c6NGB2rmHfuL%2Fskf1dcrEKwv%2FaMOA5kXGUAXhymJpSBw3veeUAF%2BWdp7FW%2BLBzl2Ef9Fgi%2FAV5LMpR2uFRmRwyHTRlDYY%2BIDW9Y95TVa7HDKtfRDZWTQjua7NxZGSRXq%2BDpbDkcDKeAu8S6%2BjFUc%2FC0XFyNDzI2wYOVD%2F0DrBxU0%2B9XfnHDKxtM4sfSb7vNJwVWkjFLzPgraBTZfrhQY%2BblwI%2BGa03mM%2BaIP3r2IpI7fZqjFB1h21xrK9TvhjD2Qq0jOtStSOf3iMEAVmimYO82hPINfykbzWP%2Fz3xqFVDlMhvLDqgmqPzo%2FyZFowRWtQ%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9TMzL7JZg

How about annoying? Depends on if you like an out of tune La Cucaracha. Let's play all twenty while we are all barely moving in traffic. Truly loud deep horns need a dedicated tank maintained by a compressor and infrequent discharge.

Nice looking parts. It's too bad Burton no longer offer the modified ford breather box with the extended inlet brazed on. A little more info on the originals. They are shown in Tony Weales book. I guess "racing" folks left the box breather off since they had the pcv mounted in the top grommet or converted to dry sump and plugged the hole. The pinto lima ohc, zetec, and duratec all use an evolved (but not interchangeable) version. Block openings grew bigger and higher on the block.

I think so. 1969 was the first year for recessed.

Here is how Ford designed the crankcase venting after road draft. Some blocks have mounting holes and some breathers have the mounting flange. The plate in the bottom deflects oil splash from the cam. The use of an oring instead of a grommet makes the opening as large as possible to reduce carrying oil up into the breather. The breather has internal baffling (like steel wool). The opening in the top would go to an air filter box but could go to a universal breather tank. All this should auto drain back into the engine unless the tank is mounted lower or has a horizontal hose. All hoses should be as large as possible. If an electric fuel pump is used, then the mechanical fuel pump block opening could also be used as a vent with a baffle plate added. The breathers can be found on ebay UK and they can be refurbished: https://www.ebay.com/itm/236270138699?_skw=escort+crankcase+breather&itmmeta=01K8XRF4Q9ZNQHN3G1FV5J9MM4&hash=item3702cc354b:g:kBIAAOSwqR1mt3L~&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dW5moFbaXU4arAhTK9iJF3JzWEZmAHexeUUtrs9NVchcmp9F0Waz3C3PZGPEoIsjm%2FfCj6qXmS4z4koQPZpafzIJ0pWLaVxtatsX8DOObeFmh9eOCbR39132nwVYwQe0BbGm6m0%2BVFIzrNJSEYgNCnxCdmXRWYd0kZHVz48rv7pkbIpVuc2XL%2FnPDqq8fHq8i0ehIsKAl5khL9d3bxoHTQL%2B2bwLMtUvU8CCYB7cMo76T6uFkHVGE%2B3UgmMmOosDc%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5DMvLjHZg

Many different ways. Here is one with a cross flow. You may have a road draft tube currently fitted on the S2 block.

Many rivets with exposed heads. Not obvious on the newer cars.

I'd recommend an electric. https://www.burtonpower.com/mechanical-fuel-pump-ford-x-flow-ohv-kent-ffp445.html

I can see why they made the old bracket that way. The angle iron provided a level platform for supporting the alt during mockup to weld. If the original pivot bracket ends up in the way due to alt lug placement, here is a suggestion for making a new one. You can fit also tube between the blue flanges to use a single pivot bolt and nut for easier adjustment.

Here are a couple ways to make the alt adjustment bracket. No welding if you source an adjuster.

Looks like the original pulley has a smaller shaft so it may not fit the geo. Appears that all you will need is a reworked upper bracket or just make new. The upper just tensions so it can be a 90 degree tab on the block with rod ends and a coupler if you want. May need to shim the lower brkt between the front ear and the alt to set the belt alignment; possibly shim the rear as well depending on the gap to the geo floating bush.

I repack when they start to get noisy from old, crumbly grease. The front bearing seal should pop out of the bearing easily with a pointy (steak?) knife, then reflatten to reinstall after greasing. The rear is just a cup. There usually is a couple holes on the outside for a paper clip to hold the brushes in against the springs for assembly. If you'd like some bracket suggestions, post pics of the old brackets installed without the alternator in the way.

'98 HPC RHD 27k mi ATL: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1538548847583200/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Af8356dc8-4e44-4651-9890-ba4554b419c8 No affiliation.

It looks like the main issue here is alt case diameter between the steering shaft, block, outboard chassis rail, and the unfortunate routing from Cat (must have built the prototytpe header on an engine without an alternator). I have many types of alternators in-hand (mostly ones I've replaced) that I could compare dimensions on. Applications are 60s-90s. I have engineering and fab experience if you'd like any suggestions for mounting the geo alt. Here is a bracket I designed and fabbed for a CS-121 on a chevy v6-60 in a Triumph.

Nice. I suggest joining/contacting the MGB forum to offer the spline drive conversion kit with wheels and tires locally for $750. Such kits run around $2000 from Rimmer Brothers.

Still need to adapt to fit using bracket changes, but geo metro is a good option with similar output. The later flat belt alt has the batt stud in a better location and the pulley could be swapped to a v-belt. Connectors are also available on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/406295921439?fits=Make%3AGeo&_skw=geo+alternator&itmmeta=01K8JG1W6GS655F0SMPR6BMT37&hash=item5e991fc31f:g:oBcAAeSwOYZo8TYD&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dd8cG3dBE75j81D8LUBZ4%2BD56FXXgGjiItri3lgZ3pU0c9GkE31ShywIifnHgSNhjYr2hOseoEK629DyW21zugNWSt2hN1tXOj9m7sjLq3FzSCXWxFn0acPkv3wVB%2BTIOgq%2FUtxJzeRKRdA0gSU1h1HWnahxtVYA%2BLkUeqQjQ1oD9HOjtf3URepH4VoKDDP3i0ERshTrMYSK9TwvK7C5s1EdQQ2RDEu9qy9K2UbYGifxcURxIGtzUu3Mv0RqwYVOc%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-LDh9DEZg https://www.ebay.com/itm/267015395577?fits=Make%3AGeo&_skw=geo+alternator&itmmeta=01K8JG1W6GHH2VNW9WF6NN3RF0&hash=item3e2b5b98f9:g:H1gAAOSwmg9n9W3B&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ekkvEixq3TOFQd%2FnrDVZlUVqz7LcJ9G6UfefDt5Dze4kCX5MiIgSU6Acv0ouryA%2FwdldRLmmPTDKMtSMjdieI%2F6H40GILh%2BvfuJWahC9HTCEALfpzboylL6n9C6yXbNaEuh0zh8ywLE4mCKoQ64mT85W1E5D9HVvFCAYIW5jfa3a5vJVpea1A3wlIrmTmLtE4qvDp2XfSry5LrmBzT5RzokpBMD%2FdY2V2cNEANw%2F4oyr93oSrZpHB1paK8moS%2F%2BVnqSSinXa66pE4NUPKPKv7rQEGJSrL30%2Fkkogb4%2FpmK6A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR97Dh9DEZg https://www.ebay.com/itm/205670147412?fits=Make%3AGeo&_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D292554%26meid%3Dc852006a23564f31926db19c41abc898%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D292161762476%26itm%3D205670147412%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V6ReplaceKnnV4WithVectorDbNsOptHotPlRecallWithFitmentPromotion%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A205670147412c852006a23564f31926db19c41abc898|enc%3AAQAKAAABUOPVUWkNSWIi4xPIRR%2Bea0ruWIxHgnPK8PdPxN8t7lOJwSbCgBVGnPB%2BkX92OCSHLrWzcuJijyMXsixjmw%2F0tOoPG1Av05NgSa3J%2F4730CL2ZJhZ%2Ff4OEh7j1dOOikPSN4bEKgMzqP2EaD1QOWaiLl5ddvg%2By857Csn%2F89LkZSxHJYiJRjan%2BuNoXlpSUMevco6Na3YWea%2B94XHKhNYLHgzlqE45dYvbyijYrVblW0%2BYZeibQBTdsA17u3XSUoBInoHcoKcB8%2FjL%2FHTiEJkDdAssUvGakVkccnF1QHYiPbnOzkuCES4zORrKxeejjrjir380o7MAEHZFPqmKak7QuT3wQNzUxTgLScbyfAsRmlYUbyDaehuLUUQeBPQN8KfZOD2aJw0gWL579hrJXac3yODogxQP4cjk6eFmlpUPh6isV%2F7npHcKx4QzZq4hSbO5Mw%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01K8JJ6BK9SYMT8H9XJGEKAYPQ

Couldn't find the gen3 euro pump domestically. What I found is probably what you found. There are a number of pumps for asian market ford 2.0ls with the same connections that are in CA and use a different suffix on the basic ford part number but I didn't research them further. Tariff pumps: https://www.ebay.com/itm/315124235161?_skw=bv61-9h307-&itmmeta=01K8GNJJVR53831TTVW0MADDFB&hash=item495ede3b99:g:i5sAAOSw56plthLf&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1c7xksH4LqOYh1JCMMQ6BP34CRWzhE2xcPCDBiAMBHGqMbl7hyuAyN7My%2F1eXyKJ1q9SA2kYNjF9w5erbqJpqhQEs%2FPtrsAs%2BgTkQBMn3LLTLPfpN2R2BTc3fPxpGYBV4aKPvCWkpYJNQWXq6HQ8Th9m4LRfuDG5wXL0IWNKqLHfGlrxNHW4gnhj%2FDp71UurjizzdriGP1PScCWV6b4eN4teftH3HS56KT12%2B%2FIa%2FZ%2Bt0ywyK6NvuHrOkW%2BQvCNRcTVTVEIs0I5X1o9vV8hQZWUm5WXzBg%2FZzvP1KOlql6FlA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR46uypXEZg https://www.amazon.com/BV61-9H307-BV61-9H307-DB-BV61-9H307-DC-BV61-9H307-DD-Compatible/dp/B0FSZD7ZDK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=32PY7NKRTJ17I&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.cBOLXe_7Q4OzBl-UV_QctA.Rvd1PeVEbtN9qdYnJ_88icLYmwt-cFIuTn3g9_N356M&dib_tag=se&keywords=BV61-9H307-DC&qid=1761497510&s=automotive&sprefix=bv61-9h307-dc%2Cautomotive%2C103&sr=1-1-catcorr

The bucket has compression springs on the rods. Installing the pump lid to the tank compresses the springs to load the bucket against the tank floor. Still looking for a domestic source.

I will provide a link or two for the pump through amazon for domestic shipping.

Domestics are listed on rockauto and the descriptions can have errors. Search on amazon.

I'm not saying it is ok. You have a problem that is more difficult to find than a cylinder not firing.

It isn't obvious that you've determined anything. The number crosses to a standard 2013-2017 focus ST for the euro market (about $100). Could Cat be shipping these to someone who mods the board to work with the Cat speedo? Why ask? You are in a better position than anybody to determine that because you have their pump in-hand. Spend a few bucks to get a focus assy (1gen or euro 3gen), remove yours, compare the resistance change when swinging the float arm to compare. If the swing is different, swap the resistor board to the pump you bought. EDIT: I found the ohms for the 1gen: 15-160, 3gen 464-50, Empty-full. Since you are not going to run a return, the 3rd gen euro is the best bet for matching pump output. For those who have not researched, here is a list of equivalent pumps to the part number on the Cat supplied pump: BV61-9H307-DA BV61-9H307-DB BV61-9H307-DC BV61-9H307-DD Fuel Pump Module Assembly Unit Compatible With Ford Focus III 2013-2017 2.0 ST Compatible With FORD: 1779841 Compatible With FORD: 1788061 Compatible With FORD: 1839104 Compatible With FORD: 1851813 Compatible With FORD: BV61-9H307-DA Compatible With FORD: BV61-9H307-DB Compatible With FORD: BV61-9H307-DC Compatible With FORD: BV61-9H307-DD Compatible With BOSCH: 0580200182 Compatible With BOSCH: 0580200183 Compatible With ERA: 775697 Compatible With FISPA: 72582 Compatible With HOFFER: 7507663 Compatible With HOFFER: 7507663 Compatible With INTERMOTOR: 39559 Compatible With MEAT & DORIA 77663 Compatible With SIDAT 72582 Compatible With WE PARTS 320900894 Compatible With FORD Imported Compatible With FOCUS III 20 ST 2012-2017 R9DA,R9DB,R9DC,R9DD 1999 184 Hatchback Compatible With Ford (imported) Compatible With FOCUS III Turnier 2.0 ST 2012- R9DA,R9DB,R9DC,R9DD 1999 184