MV8

You could use high strength threaded rod or a setup stud (both from Mcmaster). I assume the actual miata metric bolt is too long to be used with the westy control arm.

I just realized what this is. The car originally had a cable clutch but someone adapted it to hydraulic using a universal slave. I don't know about the source for the one you have, but a new slave is about $50 from speedway motors. The problem is the speedway part may have a different bore size, different line fitting, may be longer or shorter, etc so some adapting may be required. An alternative is to return to the leak-free standard cable clutch but it may require pedal modification or other small parts to make it work and you don't want to be waiting on the domestic mail in somebody else's garage. I suggest stopping several times on your way home to top off the clutch master. It may not be as bad a leak as you think. The dust boot and the mounting stud is removed to fit a bolt and bracket. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Pull-Type-Clutch-Release-Slave-Cylinder,7169.html?utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gad_source=5&gad_campaignid=23022589191&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8Nex2qf6kAMVqjUIBR1fRBXuEAQYAiABEgIxC_D_BwE

How far are we going? Make sure the cooling fan can be switched on. I see the fan switch is not connected. Make sure the alternator is charging the battery and the temp is being displayed on the temp gauge. Replace any hard, stiff fuel or coolant hoses. Disconnect the fuel line at the carbs to let the electric pump fill a clean pail to see how clean the fuel is. Change the fuel filter and vee belt. DO not move the oil lines around unless you want to go ahead and replace them. Hot oil pushes the durability limits of rubber hose. There should be a seal kit available for the slave. Might check the diff and trans oil levels to top off. Date codes on the tires to see how old and if your test drive created some cracks. Looks well cared for but sitting is always bad.....

Identical components on seemingly identical chassis can have dramatic differences in camber gain (and other aspects) from small changes in control arm locating points. Miatas are completely different front and rear. I would run zero toe and a 1/2 degree camber on the dedion until tire wear or some other situation (like roll steer or high speed instability) suggested a change.

Jack stands and string will show thrust angle for each rear wheel. Because the chassis tapers, the distance between the stands is reduced. As high as will clear the fender, bring the string up against the tire bulges then measure to the ends of the parallel chassis rails (cowl and boot). You can check distance to the rim front and rear if you don't trust that the bulges are equal. The greater the distance between the stands, the more accurate it will be. You can shim to align each one to the chassis or you can use the first one you set as the reference to set the other side. The miata suspension is very different but whatever you are happy with. Just a discussion.

Driven wheels toe-in under dynamic load but any rear toe-out when driving is too much imho. The front will toe-out under load. The goals are zero dynamic toe front and rear unless you are trying to tune the handling in some way. 2.5deg is excessive for touring unless you have a lot of body roll. I suggest starting with one rear wheel to align to the chassis, then line up the others based on that as a reference.

What is the mount thread size? Remove one of the side mirrors that you have now (cracking loose the jamb nut base at the windscreen), take the mirror to a hardware store, machine shop, or mechanic to determine if it is metric or sae and the thread pitch. The thread can be sae or metric M8 or M10, both sides right hand thread or one left hand thread. I'm guessing M10-1.5 RH and LH.

In positions where conflict of interest is a concern, there are strict investment rules in the branches for career employees who are not appointees or politicians.

To determine what size and offset rim will work, purchase (from a tire shop that will accept returned tires) one of each size tire in the sizes you are interested in running and the tool for determining the rim size needed. Support the suspension. Pick up a few five gallon buckets to set in the rear and fill with water or remove the springs to check bump clearance.

That is good news. If you pull the FIA switch to check connections, the battery negative terminal should be disconnected first. The FIA switch should have two large stud terminals and four male spade terminals for slip-on connectors. The spades are paired with the casing labeled 1 and 2. One pair is ignition (connected when the FIA switch is ON) and the other involves the alternator and a resistor (connected when in OFF). The connectors should not slide off and on without some effort. To improve the connection, with the FIA switch off, the connectors can be pulled off one at a time (to prevent mixing them up) and gently, barely squeezed so they are more difficult to install. You might also cycle the FIA switch off and on a dozen times or so to clean the internal switching contacts.

I found a good pic of the bottom of the tank with the balance tube.

Marek, for comparison, here is his tank cover with carpet. Perhaps there is rubber underneath?

This looks to be an intermittent power distribution in RUN through a circuit that includes the #1 pin of the MBE and the speedo and tach power. The immobilizer is functioning normally. If it were only the shift light not coming on, I would suspect the MBE connector had a bent pin or was not seated but this includes the instrumentation. I'd start by reseating all the relays on the fuse block behind the panel. The shift light comes directly from the MBE and the speedo and tach needle swing/self test is internal to those components. These cars have a calibration module to make different dash configurations plug and play, but that would only affect indications and not running. This car looks to have a combination dash (420 and 620?). CAT does not share wiring diagrams. They used to share a harness layout in the back of the assembly guide. I assume this policy preventing direct customer support is to help support their dealer network for servicing. Your dealer should be actively helping you with this.

The ecu does nothing when off. Are you now saying the red light does not always turn on with the key in RUN with the other instrument lights? Did you clean the battery terminals and check for loose cables? Did you pull a plug to confirm flooding?

This is all making sense now. With the key turned to RUN, you should have multiple indications of life such as working turn signals, the digital odometer showing in the speedo, warning lights in the tachometer, and the big red light between the two instruments. It sounds like one or a combination of factors related to power distribution or grounding; something is not fully plugged in, the ends of the battery cables are loose, or the battery is not fully charged. The battery should be fully charged to the green lights (step 7 or 8), not just to the "ready to use" light (step 4). Small batteries reduce weight at the expense of allowed attempts to start the engine, so you may just need to charge. A few minutes running (alternator charging) is not long enough to replace a single cranking attempt, much less multiple. The battery is likely undersized to save weight (fewer amp hours) and less tolerant of failed start attempts. Battery terminals have a dull grey oxidation when new. This is removed with a wire brush before the cables are attached. I don't know what type of terminal you have but there are brushes for round post types at your local auto parts store. I see you have a short neck on the block where the thermostat goes instead of the long metal tube that did not accept a thermostat so you likely have the improved kit. Also, never leave the key in RUN and engine off with out attempted starting within a few seconds. This can overheat the ignition coils and cause them to fail early.

Unfortunately, the cable contains electronics that make it compatible only with MBE software, which also make it more expensive.

I still don't know what it should be, but I found that some MBE Jenvey efi kits are set up for an idle speed of 1200 to 1375 rpm while keeping the TPS voltage at between 0.30 and 0.37vdc and 44.1 psi fuel pressure. A CAT dealer should have access to the correct, basic servicing information. For now, you could raise the idle a bit but keep it under the lowest rpm at which the warm oscillation occurs. Higher idle speeds can make engagement of first or reverse more difficult.

If you have an MBE ecu, get the software and cable to see what is going on with a lap top as a diagnostic tool:

The level in the tank has no affect on the cranking mixture. I don't know. I think it would be more likely to flood. It depends on the programming. A normal vehicle typically cuts fuel at WOT during cranking to clear a flooded condition. You can always pull a plug to confirm. Perhaps a video with sound of your starting attempts from sitting/cold? Does it crank easily when warm?

Don't expect this to have the same good drive ability as a mass produced car with modern efi. This is a race car with a very basic efi where the clutch is not intended to be engaged until higher rpm. In some ways, AlphaN is more limited than a carburetor to address drive ability issues due to a lack of common efi sensors that all other systems incorporate. Waiting assumes flooding occurred but it may be lack of fuel. Initially, I would turn the key to RUN and wait three seconds for the fuel system to pressurize, followed by engaging the starter, foot off the throttle until it starts or five seconds. If it doesn't start, and if I don't smell (unburned/flooding) fuel, I'd immediately repeat the process. Holding the throttle open while cranking might help with excess fuel/flooding but not for a lack of fuel issue.

Looks to be Alpha-N ecu if there is no MAP sensor. No IAC shown so idle is set by screw and no compensation for hot or cold running but also cannot cause rpm oscillation you've described. You didn't say what you set the warm idle speed to, but I expect it is too high, putting it in a different position on the ECU tuning map where the timing is changing. Do not loosen and play with the TPS setting without having a spec and a DVM to check it. Assuming for now that the TPS is adjusted correctly for the TB butterfly idle position, try to reduce the warm idle setting to around 800 rpm. This means you will need to keep the throttle open slightly during cold start long enough to stay running.

I searched your source and could not find the word "fool" anywhere in it. Would you elaborate?

It is a project, but I like it for being complete with the weather package and good basic bones. Rear axle is also Toyota. Lots of quick, weekend fixes that don't park the car for extended periods which are part of the fun of any enthusiast car imho. Bill of sale is all that is required for something this old. If it were new enough to require a title doc to transfer ownership, there is often a bonding process an owner can use to get it on the road.

I don't see my personal fave, the Walmart Eco Waterfall on this list. So good it's off the chart. Like eggs that are grade B2-Large, except they can't actually be too large.

I think it started as a kit built in the 80s. He should have taken the 13k. I expect this was an estate sale find.