MV8

You're funny. Double nope. I can tell what was bought and what was butchered, but this topic is for Pethier's fuel tank. Maybe they can make a fiction section? I can give you a list of what's wrong with this pile. The good news is there are plenty of buyers around, but you get a much better price if you separate the materials.

Nope.

I don't know Alex. Looks like you bolted a plate between a stock intake (TBI?) and a carb spacer. There is an intake for putting a holley 4v on this engine. No harm adding a pillow block for that floaty steering shaft.

I took a look at kevko but don't see a pan that would work as-is. They may make a shallow one for you based on their F803 wet sump flat bottom design and increase the kick outs for more capacity. You can also bring the capacity back up using a remote 2 quart filter base for gm applications. https://kevkoracing.com/collections/ford-2300/products/part-f803-ford-2300-flat-bottom-pan I understand why you would not want to, but I'd weld in a new crossmember in front of the existing one. After fully welding into position (only the angle iron need be trimmed to fit the new xmember), the original center section between the angle iron can be cut out and the opening filled. It would be stronger than original and provide another couple inches of pulley clearance.

I suggest milling the front groove off the crank pulley, moving the engine forward for distributor, lower intake, and bellhousing starter bulge clearance the way it is in a seven and a remote shifter. Raise the engine 1/2 inch. This can limit your mods to a widened, shallow oil pan level with the bottom of the bell and a shortened pickup (good time to add baffles), and the upper intake to reroute. If you limit the boost to 7psi or less, the fit will be easier/cleaner and less weight without the intercooler, which has little to no benefit at that boost level. Run the TB to turbo intermediate pipe around the back of the head.

You're funny Reiver, and that is not a bad thing. We've got to stick together. "Shucks Mister. It's gotta be true. I read it on the internet" When given my choice of influencers online, I'll go by the manufacturers catalog. Gaps are adjustable for most plugs and there are many reasons they can be off but the BR7EFS is intended to be .035" from NGK, according to NGK. I have no doubt that you needed to adjust the gap.

Easy to find if you can accurately measure one or match one up locally. Are they copper, aluminum, rubber, an O ring, or plastic? If metal, they could be annealed if too hard to seal. Auto parts stores carry all sorts of plug seals.Mcmaster offers additional options.

BR7 come with a 0.9mm (about .035") gap. TR6-13 is a 1.3mm gap.

The TR6 is a colder heat range with a wider gap. If the ignition coils are not up to firing under all conditions, a smaller gap will improve running. A hotter plug can help as long as the tips are not melting. In general, boosted typically take a colder plug and smaller gap to prevent plug failure/overheat.

There are very reasonably priced programmable speedos that require a sensor (usually magnetic pickup but there could be hall effect units out there). Depending on the transmission, an oem type electronic speed sensor (such as from a late-80s or newer application) can be installed to replace the cable attachment and 90 degree gear box if equipped. If the programmable speedo input required is a specific waveform or range of rpm and frequency, there are cheap signal conditioners that can be installed. The end result should be about $200 or less in parts. If replacing the original mech speedo with another mech speedo, even if the existing cable fits the speedo, the calibration of the speedo itself varies for Cat depending on the year model as well as the aftermarket units. It just means that a cable drive gear swap may be required. This can be the trans output shaft gear, driven gear, or the gears in the 90 degree box. Speedos are usually between 1000 and 1100 rpm for a 60 mph indication and often have it written on the face. I've lubed cables once the speedo started jumping and they are still in service years later without a relapse (used synthetic wheel bearing grease). If ignored, the cable will fail. Cable cores are available and quils can be made if a replacement cannot be found or the old one repaired.

Mech speedo failures are normally lack of fresh lubrication on the cable (tend to cause a jumpy indicator needle before failure) but can also be caused by poor cable routing. I assume you have a 90 degree drive at the trans. A gps speedo may also have a separate module that should sit in the open for line of sight to the satellite(s) and may still loose indication around buildings and tunnels. The difference in a standard 3-3/8 gauge and the opening in your dash may only be a radius of .059" or less and could be rolled in versus filed away.

Looks sturdy. You might want to add a couple small holes in the side of those cups to let any liquids that might collect to run out.

To be fair to Bruce's assumption, you've not said the "cutting out" has anything to do with cornering. People read your build topic even though most don't post a comment. Please keep it up.

I like the full mirror dash cams (where it can be seen well enough in the moment without using a phone) too except for those cars in limbo years with auto dimming mirrors but no touch screens. Very few mirror DVRs have auto dimming when it should be standard since a flipper mirror would throw off the front camera angle.

Not surprised by the pickup reroute to the sender. The carb tank pickup is very restrictive, tough to clear if corroded or clogged and totally unsuitable to feed an efi pump. A surge system would work with the carb pickup but also need a lift pump as well and still require the return from the top of the surge tank. There is no drop-in tank that checks all your blocks. For a flat top, he could use bulkhead fittings through the front wall, then have a flat access in the top to reach inside for setup of the internal teflon hose, pump and baffle. Here is the basic idea: https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm Note the cork seal, inner clamp ring (split to get it into the tank), and as many #8 machine screws as there are room for to get a light but even clamp on the tank top. The tank cover could be raised an inch or two with support to fit a drop in assy with no bulkhead fittings. It's not like you will be standing on it. Holley also sells a similar product but an oem bucket could be used and located by a custom flat lid, lifted enough to make the bulkhead pickup connection.

You've motivated me to get a new DVR to replace my 15 year old 118C. Still going but night vision is poor and the stick tape went away. Does the a229 have a dock? It looks like you put tape on the gps module to hold it on. I thought you might go with a 119 mini or touch screen mirror for this since I see no rear view cam. The 229 really puts the scale of the car into perspective.

In the rear of the head where the coolant is warmest and circulates hot and cold. Cap the heater ports

In regard to repacking, if the muffler uses a continuous center pipe attached at both ends (like a glass pack muffler), then you'll need to cut that as well to separate the two ends for access to repack. I would cut at the middle instead of near the end, cap one or both of the cut ends which forces the exhaust to go out the forward tube then back in the aft tube for much better sound damping than a straight through/glass pack. If you cut near the end, don't cap as it will be too restrictive through the shorter inner tube and just repack.

May help to indicate what year model R400, post some pictures of the fuse panel,relays, under the bonnet, and share voltages and ohms values versus "good" and "very good". I don't know what key position 1 and 2 are. The tps would have power to check voltage with the key in the RUN position. This also powers everything including ignition coils that will eventually overheat and fail if not allowed to discharge through the plugs, so they should have been unplugged. Was there a prior issue requiring adjustment of the tps? I guess you have a volt meter. If analog/swinging needle I suggest also having a digital model (DVM). A test probe with a bulb or led is very useful. A six foot 14 ga wire with alligator/roach clips on the ends is sometimes needed for system checks. I expect you need to recharge the battery as well.

Ditto on the reclocked offset for improved GC. Could also eliminate the muffler from the side and run only a rear transverse oval/turbo style. Cat sells the full length system or you can have it put together from mandel bent ss and the muffler(s) of your choice. Just getting the outlet behind the car should help. There was someone here who recently posted that they wanted to get rid of the full length system on their new car.

summit racing has a very good filter for narrowing the mufflers to what you need. Their prices for walkers are usually the best but shipping is the kicker.

What is the condition of the original springs? Too much work to restore?

I assume these are the GS4-2030 dampers for the front without adjustable seats and they have 8.5" between the seats. It is rare to find a coilover spring application that doesn't require compression to install (not counting owner modifications with high rate short springs). The rate should be 95# with a free length of 12.43" and 9" between the seats. EDIT. 12.43"-9"= 3.43"x95#= 325.85# on the seats, /125#=2.6068"+ 8.5"=11. 1". Use an external spring compressor and you should be fine at fully extended but it will still sit high. Note the seat rate is reduced by the motion ratio of the suspension. Adjustable seats would have allowed you to set the ride height independent of the spring rate.

It depends on how much work you can do. The inlet appears to not be parallel to the case. Here are some mufflers that could be adapted (should have a cover as they are not made to be pretty/smooth) or you can import one that is a direct fit. If you'd like to repack and don't mind a little fab, the case could be cut about an inch from the end, a strip of .050" or so sheet about 1.5 inches wide can be rolled to fit half way in to the forward case, the case drilled for a few spot welds to hold it in place, then the cap added, outlet correctly clocked, then a few #10x3/8 or so pan head sheet metal screws added to hold it on. Touch up with flat exhaust or barbecue paint to hide the serviceability. Packing material is common. Metal supermarkets is one place you can buy sheet metal in these thickness cut to the size you need. I bought some at my local shop yesterday for a continuous cement mixer I am building because I didn't have time to get a truck to pickup a full sheet at my normal supplier. You can almost bend the metal by hand but it is easier to use the pipe and body to get the right shape. I don't think any of the direct fit replacements will be as quiet as your repacking or using an ugly oem type.

Pipe od in and out, case od and length, and if inlet or outlet is offset from center.