MV8

Let's not. Compression sounds even. The starting system seems adequate. The ecm is getting power while cranking. The crank trigger is syncing. It won't sync if the engine is not turning. It looks like a previous owner bought the complete induction kit for a zetec black top that includes everything but the zetec crank sensor and coil packs. This would include their basic start tune for this application. You can contact them to check it or simply download the currently available tune (36 tooth, MAP based load) for this to compare, because 35% MX Time does not look right. It should be 50%. Also check your tooth control table. It starts with zero as a 5 and continues repeating 5445 and should be a 3 starting at tooth 35 and up. What are the sensor sensitivity settings? It will show the gain as high or low applied to the crank sensor (which is an AC volt gen and tach) above and below a certain rpm and if the trigger is rising or falling. Again, it is syncing but that is only part of it. Do you have power to the coils middle terminal during cranking? It would be interesting to see the timing setting. The "live" function allows you to see what is going on with just about anything but coil pack power.

How does your wiring differ from the Omex harness shown? Do you have a JP1 jumper installed on the Omex ecm? You will need to take it apart to check. The software must also be configured for the magnetic ford crank sensor. Omex supports hall effect and magnetic so it must be setup properly. Fully charge the battery then perform another video with audio engaging the starter for two or so seconds, plugs installed and without.

In your intro post, I see you are the third owner in assembling this and used a painless harness. Since you've not posted it, I guess you don't have any schematics and it ran for six months or so?

Just looked at your activity from 2020 about the starter not turning the engine over. Misconfigured spark timing events can prevent the engine from turning over. I can do the same thing with a dstributor engine by turning the distributor too far.

I don't think it has anything to do with starter grounding. Did it run well before in this configuration with the omex and suddenly did not or is this an unfinished build/modification? The circuit for power to the efi and ignition should be separate from the power when the starter is not engaged. Have you verified power to the omex while the starter is engaged? What model Omex?

Use the oil weight that will get you a hot idle of 25-35psi. This may be 0w-20. For break in, the best you can do is 30w. The relief valve should be adjusted to 60-80 psi at 3500 rpm. Fix the pressure problem leading to the crankcase pressure problem leading to the leaks and you won't need a restrictor.

Why? The whole story from the beginning please.

It sounds like your leaks are due to crankcase pressure. A restrictor delays top end pressure on start up and reduces valve train lubrication and cooling. Look at windage, oil weight, smoothing oil returns, and crankcase breather systems that also act as an aux return to the pan.

For the no-start condition, I suggest sharing your process of elimination that resulted in a finding narrowed down to EMI interference from the starter. Include pictures around the engine bay. To know what you have, make and share wiring diagrams of your systems. The engine/trans assy, the chassis, the battery, and any typical/traditional electrical component must all be connected to each other one way or another. Details matter.

Header wrap, trim to fit firewall thermal blanket cowl to floor to tunnel entry and in front of the firewall, heater blower on high but the heater valve closed.

See my June 18th post.

I'm not familiar with your rack but in general, new rack bushings can be cast using polyurethane using the old ones by adding a layer of foam tape where they've compressed and making a plaster mold, 3d printed in a variety of materials, or solid mounted without bushings.

Looks like the ford axle. Measure diagonally between the wheel studs. It should be 4.25" versus 3.75". EDIT: Definitely ford. I just noticed the ford emblem on the drum.

How did you determine the wheel is not removable? I'd try a common silicone or a teflon spray. Don't want to use anything that may soften the plastic bush.

What you actually have on the car can vary. I would expect to see Triumph Spitfire front calipers and master cylinder (with a different plastic reservoir) and a Triumph TR7 rear axle (also used on the Dolomite and the Morris Ital) and wheel cylinders (there can be several different bore sizes). Maybe somebody sells these parts grouped to fit most live axle CATs, but you can source most if not all from Moss Motors. A European application Ford axle (Cortina, Escort, etc) is another possibility. https://mossmotors.com/triumph-spitfire/brakes/brake-master-cylinder-hydraulics https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr7-8/brakes/brake-components

I doubt it. The wide track was an option for DeDion equipped from '96-on. '96-on standard track DeDion and 91-96 DeDion are also different from each other as well as different from wide track. Not sure about what was used on the rear of '85-88 DeDion. It looks like GAZ has the most reasonably priced adjustable seat damper for live axle. Spring rates for touring / ride quality appear to stay around 95# front, 55# rear.

All Lotus S2 and S3 live axle, as well as Caterham live axle should use interchangeable dampers front and rear. For front only, include S1 and '89 and newer Seven when in a chassis equipped with a Dedion that is using stem upper mounts on the rear.

If only they'd made the car a couple inches taller to have the engine a couple inches higher in the chassis. A ride height adjustment can be made with a shim on the spring seat or swapping for the threaded sleeves and seats from Cat (or possibly something Bilstein can sell directly). It SHOULD be as simple as sliding off the standard lower seat, leaving the wire ring or an integral step on the damper body that located the original seat. CAT specs for length extended and compressed and attachments are not universal to where those used for racing here are a direct fit as-is plus the damping would be another variable to figure out. You might also look at GAZ.

I expect that Cat made special, minimum id washers that must be threaded on to the fitting to seal adequately. The washers would appear not to fit because they don't slip over the thread major diameter. Annealing helps if you are up to the challenge of using a hand torch. I bet there are videos you could pull up on annealing copper washers. I hang the washer on a steel wire, bathe the washer in heat evenly until it glows (about a second), IMMEDIATELY take the torch away to prevent melting the washer and drop the washer in water to quench/rapid cool. You should expect some pedal travel. You might contact a local tech school, aerospace engineer or commercial/industrial hydraulic hose and repair facility to show your caliper and hardware for an opinion (they cannot work on it anyway or provide any fittings if they know it will be going on a car).

I think you have the wrong fittings if those are wilwood calipers. I would expect pipe thread/no sealing washers. Also, those fittings are not made for sealing washers. The pedal ratio is likely 6 or 7 to 1 so you are not bottoming out the master cylinder with a 1/4 inch of piston travel.

Eco Waterfall in 185-60-14 is about $50 each. Could be carried out to your installer. I have my own equipment.

Thicker bars do not always increase understeer. The camber loss on the outside tire is one reason to reduce roll with a thicker bar. Adding weight works up to a point where the net traction is actually reduced. The point of the bar is to balance front and rear. If you want more roll, remove it and take it for a short drive. It will at least show how effective the current bar is. I'd probably go bigger but keep the old one. I'd consider limiting front roll to no less than 4 degrees, then if it pushes in tight turns, consider a pencil thin rear bar for minimal oversteer.

Aspect ratio alters tread width to fit the same general rim width range, so a 185 60 is wider than a 70. It is also lighter for better grip over rougher surfaces, increases rear wheel torque through gearing multiplication, and lowers the chassis for better handling. In this case, the differences are small but they are all in the right direction if you have adequate ground clearance.

I THINK you need to jumper pin one to pin three. It depends on the sensor type (NPN or PNP). Based on the harness resistor connections, it looks to be NPN. It is either ground or power to pin 3. I take no responsibility! Good luck.

Are you saying the retrofit is only the speedo, reusing your existing speed sensor? What kind of sensor do you have?