MV8

Pick up a ford factory service manual for a focus that was offered with the SVT 2.3L. It will be paper and about two inches thick. Get the volume that covers the engine.

I don't see what sliders you guys are talking about. I've found common, aftermarket, low profile sliders to be a copy of original triumph spitfire sliders. The only way I can think of to make one lower profile is to offset the slider from under the seat but the seating area would need to be wider than a seven. Cheaper to buy these than refurb originals. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Universal-Bucket-Seat-Slider-Tracks,7103.html

A brake master must allow air into the reservoir so fluid can flow out. Every master I have ever seen has a vented cap but a bellows has been added on most domestics since the sixties, extending service life of fluid by limiting exposure to air. You can run a lower level or a bellows so it doesn't slosh out on hard cornering. Unplug the warning if you want.

I would expect an mg or triumph snap on arm with a cable drive system, but the splined od ferrule (held on with a set screw to the shaft) that the arm snaps on to is missing. https://www.mgmagicclassicmotorparts.com/windshield-wiper-arm-connection-kit-mg-or-gazelle-ssk-each-one-side/

Remove common seats for traditional squabs and back panel. No sliders. Can be velcro backed, one inch thick for the bottom closed cell foam with or without upholstery and no mods to the car that would prevent a return to original.

A good starting point in troubleshooting online is video and audio of cranking cold and hot/no start with pics of the engine bay. Indicated temp under no start condition could prove useful. Could be overheating. Coils and modules can have failures that occur from thermal expansion, breaking an internal contact. They cool back down and it works again. A test was to pour water on the component when it is failing to see if it starts working again after a few minutes compared to over night. Temporarily add a barb tee to add a 1/8 npt fuel pressure gauge inline where it can be easily seen. Led test light back probe (not disconnected) on the correct injector terminal or coil during cranking can determine if it is a crank sensor issue.

I agree. We used to read papers with many pages. Now it is just what fits on the top couple pages on the phone, with the display based on what sort of news we normally click.

I believe Pickles is correct (about what they can do now) and within forum rules to vent about what is, in my opinion, a forced return to following long-standing, regulatory policies.

Looks like a power or ecu connectivity issue with the #1 COP connector or wiring.

Inertia switches traditionally control the pump only. Not the injectors or ignition. I'd look for battery voltage (with a light bulb or dvm) at the coils and injectors DURING cranking.

Some foreign sellers are driving through holes in Ebay software. Some Ebay sellers that show as shipping domestically are now actually direct shipping from overseas to the buyer. This could trigger a tax bill to the buyer long after the seller is removed from ebay and the original agreement/listing is no longer accessible. Also adds a month to the delivery.

Well, it sounds like some of you have all the answers. I look forward to seeing you all step up for civil or elected service in the next cycle.

I'd set the spec cold and not worry about it for now. Then after it is running well (not ready to rev the pee out of it), check/set it hot. Valve clearance based on cam specs and crank to cam adjustments. Technically possible to have an engine where the builder put in a race spec cam then did not ensure adequate valve clearance if valve float occurs. You can add .002" to the hot specs when setting cold if you want. The goal is to ensure the valves are fully closed cold while getting the most lift and duration out of the cam.

If the coil springs are not loose (don't rattle when you shake the disc) it can be reused. It's practically new as far as wear is concerned. Pilot is just a bush for this one so I'd reuse it with a tiny wipe of grease in the bush with a q-tip or pinky, not the input shaft. Don't want so much it is migrating out of the hot crank with rpm. If the release bearing fork is pulled away with a spring outside the transmission, then the bearing is probably fine also as it only turns when shifting and turning by hand, it doesn't feel rough like there is dirt or gravel inside the bearing. Modern designs are always in contact and turning when the engine is running.

You added fluid to the bleeder side then opened the bleeder for it to flow in. You can't see it, but the fluid level equalized with the clear hose inside the black hose that would go to the master. You'd need to add fluid to the black hose, close the bleeder, then thumb over the black hose, then squeeze the slave. I believe it would have leaked where the pipes screw into the slave but you've removed those now. It looks like you've cut the dust boot so you might as well replace the assembly. Do not remove or loosen the new slaves pipes and there should be no issue.

It sounds like oil slosh off the gears at that rpm is enough to misalign a gate. I'd check the top and side cover fit and adjustment, take the top cover off and lightly push components from side to side to attempt to see how it could block first. "Rebuilt" covers a lot of ground from everything to an "aerosol overhaul".

It's not a quality thing. It's a knowledge thing. All the links may be to the same product from a single manufacturer. Also does not mean that any seller is deliberately overcharging. Walmart doesn't make car parts so don't let that stop you.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/357526746380?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D291120%26meid%3Ded224d1b02804fc4aa0e3a43beed6f4b%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D142660159406%26itm%3D357526746380%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11PairwiseFitmentPromotionV2WithCassiniQueryEmbRecallKatRecoFC%26brand%3DDorman&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A357526746380ed224d1b02804fc4aa0e3a43beed6f4b|enc%3AAQAKAAABMJdFoF6PhPSacVi2w45e4t0cBN66PGCzM%2B915a7NYCJWQXJFAaVpwOHIB34lpQ%2BNZxpndldJq3zwUnV3KJhR8xgcskqTch11K%2FSNdXk7fFg7iPPzHiMxOYZ5azcqRoyiyHLqAcJrQue6vGJNumIppH9UD3dVlDxMnuGhbs%2BiHCUFK1ZFhd1OFI5tl1xwQ2mPQYwKMvQXwXFKtPfCTwQsnsDNyck2TyCIz%2Bt0nzGQ7TVgojvL1PldICxdQdNdvCtpz02AP5ewLX1Iviv6nTfEHHlqmUDZazHlhCdxNTh6RrDMtH%2BSqJziuGMv366Rk%2BQEhq%2Bzd%2B%2FSHAj8tWr%2F9XJxAUwwt%2Bm8yQdwb1kc9sJjSFcz%2FeOX1xRk3a%2B%2BxP7K2NHc3QqTi5OdkKrSKmuw%2BmITjd0%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&epid=11080016701&itmmeta=01K3V16YG0AFN4D8SK2WK1WW7K

I assume you loosened the attaching screws to look for leaks. That is the wrong wrench for the fittings. You must use a flare wrench. Looks like you got the new guy in the shop at CAT. The HRB looks ok. I think you will find the leak is from the fittings where they enter the top of the HRB/slave (I see some debris there also). Need to check first. Obtain a metric flare wrench set (home depot, auto parts store, etc), retighten the screws, then use teflon/thread sealing tape on the fitting (wrapped in the direction that won't unwrap when the fitting is being installed) and reassemble. Do not over tighten the screws or the fitting. There is very little pressure on the fitting. You should be able to pour fluid into the external fitting where the hose connects, plug that with your thumb, then push the release bearing toward the transmission a few times. Clean the area first, then tuck a strip of clean, dry paper towel in around the fittings to make it easier to see if it leaks. It looks to be an oem part for mazda/ford that you can buy locally if the threads are damaged. Refill the pipe, thumb over the pipe, and push the release bearing to check for leaks. Do not pressurize the HRB to test if it leaks without the engine installed. It will break the HRB. If you want to test before putting the drivetrain completely back in the car, get it close enough for the hose to reach. You could buy a longer hose just for this purpose. Don't use air to test if not equipped to ensure no more than 1 psi is used.

If the holes were one behind the other, I'd think a Talbot/Shelby fender mirror was used. If side by side, it could be an adapter was made to raise a Raydyot bullet fender mirror which uses a stud but would be too low to be of any use without a raised base. You could also adapt to the common spacing with a 1x3x1/2" thick aluminum extrusion, then tap to install counter machine screws to mount the common mirror. Could also adapt a stalk mount bike mirror. Another option is a 7 inch monitor or one integral to a clip over mirror with a camera on the back of the roll bar.

Nice save!

I always curse a bit, or at least talk to it. Seems to help. Everything is easy once you've done it a few times. Hopefully not during a single repair. In the end, Howard will have Popeye forearms and sailor etiquette.

It is still pressure, but there is a gas or liquid in the bulb that changes pressure with temp. The gauge is essentially the same as a mechanical pressure gauge (bourdon tube instrument). I guess Colin liked the seat back angle.

Technique is important. Two, flat blade screwdrivers as long as body clearance allows and as thick as will still fit through the spring end. One enters the spring end/eye/hook with the tip against the exhaust where the spring bracket attaches to the pipe (about an inch from the spring end along the exhaust in the direction of pull to release). The screwdriver is well placed when the screwdriver is perpendicular to the pipe and the spring is clears the bracket. There needs to be at least an inch between the screwdriver handle and the spring. The longer the screwdriver, the less the effort to pull the spring into this position. The second screwdriver is used to lever off the exhaust to slide the spring along the first screwdriver toward the first screwdriver handle to clear the bracket. Easy-peazy, Bob's your uncle and all that.... Also, the newer cars are tighter in the tunnel with cross members that make dropping the shaft out impossible. You can leave it in place and bolted to the pinion, then when installing the drivetrain, position to where the trans is a couple inches too close but swinging on the hoist (lock/chock the wheels) so you can push the trans forward with your hand enough to get the slip yoke aligned. The weight swinging will help you engage. The pinion should be free to rotate to aid alignment.

Drain the engine and transmission oil before pulling. Remove the rear main housing to change the seal in the housing, then use RTV when reinstalling the housing to the block and pan. Brake cleaner, razor blade, and scotch brite pad work well to prep the surfaces. Good time for a new crank pilot and clutch release bearing and check flywheel/clutch/pressure plate for condition.