MV8

To be fair, the english ford escort/cortina mk2 removable carrier axle (estimated 6.75 inch ring gear) looks very much like a domestic ford "9 inch". Many companies offer new housings and axles of most any width and bolt circle so one could be fitted and retain the original track width. The easy way to tell is the rear cover shape (different from a smooth domestic 8 inch) and the 9 and 8 have a two piece carrier with a five bolt flange on the pinion. The mk2 axle does not. A 6 to 7 inch ring gear axle is an efficient choice for a traction limited 1500 lb or less car, considering parasitic loss and unsprung weight versus strength/longevity. Locking diff, slicks, numerically high ratios above 4:1 and abusive drivers might need a ford domestic 7.5 80s integral carrier or 8 inch 70s axle.

Did you change the Haynes bush shell dims? Which Energy set? Are they a direct replacement for the MK bushes in the Haynes shells or will you be turning the Energy bush set to fit? Inner sleeves?

I've read where the alfa was used sometimes. If parts support and cost were about the same, the elegant alfa would be a nice choice. Owner priorities. I probably would have pulled it to sell to an alfa restorer, then fit something more common.

FWIW, if there is any confusion about fitting, let me know. I adapted a universal coilover kit for a honda to sptifire dampers with a fabbed adapter to use standard springs. Included springs but I just wanted the seats as the springs were far too stiff and short.

You may want to get your bushing order in to MK if they can ship quickly. https://www.mksportscars.com/collections/bushes-601?page=2

Here is another: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bilstein-B4-BOA-0000187-Small-Body-Steel-Coilover-Kit,6871.html?utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gad_source=5&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzOehs7b1iwMVZoFaBR1TJjGXEAQYAiABEgL0E_D_BwE Besides the damper body od, the internal step in the sleeve id versus the metal ring or shoulder on the body will need to be assessed and possibly a simple ring made to increase the body register. A non-adjustable option is to machine a 3/8-1/2 inch thick or so shim seat for a little more clearance. Can be made from aluminum or hard plastic like uhmw rod stock.

This looks doable: https://pitstopusa.com/products/atl-formula-sports-racer-pod-bladder-6-gallon-5-x-8-x-36-2-1-4-filler-neck-fia-ft3?gad_source=5&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8KLr3a3ziwMVKp9aBR2AzR7gEAQYASABEgITLvD_BwE

Skimmed three pages of posts. New plugs and injectors. Fuel pressure with the pump running/jumpered on? Compression test? Have you looked at the programming yet? CTS temp shown look right? There is no accel pump so if that emulation is off, it would be hard to move until sufficiently warm for the programming. The hidden linkage is not helping matters. I'd take the intake sys off to set it up on the bench for equal closed position and understand how to make one adjustment for idle. Write down everything you find and if you eventually want to change anything in the programming. Take pics of the setting screens if necessary but you should be able to make changes as save as a name you come up with, like the date the change is made, so as not to overwrite the original specs you may want to go back to.

A mounting cradle can be designed to go between a standard boxy tank and the original tank attachment points.

Some of the wearing parts are on rockauto for an 87 or so merkur xr4ti. Dirt cheap as in remaining stock. Carrier bearings, pinion bearings, and the pinion seal. Still need the crush sleeve and side seals. Possibly a ring and pinion too.

Didn't see an article there, but (as I'm sure Ed knows) the smaller the spring diameter, the less reliable and stable they are. 1.9/1-7/8" is about as small (and light) as they get for suspension. I'd have converted to a 2.5 id (more common, reliable, greater variety) with new seats but still gone to a lower rate.

No muffler on the side with a transverse offset oval turbo muffler behind the axle would be much more effective. The pipe can be pieced together from mandrel bent, aluminized 1-3/4 header tubing or the caterham tail pipe and muffler could be purchased. For a side muffler, I'd look at a Jones turbo tube. They have a four inch diameter case and come in case lengths from 12 to 24 inches . I'd use a header tube 90 for the turn out, butt welded after cutting the outlet flange off to make room for as long a case as possible, parallel to the seat with a short, shallow bend at the inlet to align with the collector or a short, flex section. Most harley mufflers have a very large od. Glass packs have cases 3 inches of less. Have a shop roll a bead in the end of the turn out/header tube for a finished appearance.

Body length and how big a diameter? 1.75 in and out? Slip fit ends or butt weld? Offsets for a bigger diameter for a more effective muffler?

It could cut at the end welds and along the seam lengthwise, then the cover spread just enough to slide over the end cap. Packing doesn't last that long and the muffler design is not very effective. It could be made rebuildable so that cutting and welding is not required. Could also be made a bit larger in od. Hidden inserts for the tip can be made or bought to quiet it down as well.

You can depower what you have, but if it is indeed a 71-72 pinto rack and you want to replace it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/144549454565?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1m44DnB4rS8CbO0qO7XKVVA11&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=144549454565&targetid=2321310837104&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1015561&poi=&campaignid=21214302385&mkgroupid=161029887581&rlsatarget=pla-2321310837104&abcId=9407524&merchantid=7875914&gad_source=5&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiLvp7dDhiwMV4ZBaBR13wArqEAQYAyABEgKS6fD_BwE https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uis-8000080?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiLvp7dDhiwMV4ZBaBR13wArqEAQYASABEgKSSPD_BwE If narrowed by 5 inches compared to standard replacements listed above: https://www.appliedracing.com/steering-components/71---72-pinto-style---5-narrowed.html

Could also have add some preload to raise the suspension, realign, then test drive to see if you'd be satisfied, before selecting tires that would have fit the increased clearance, but it looks good as-is!

An easier way to think of the spring stacking is that it is the same as a balance bar dual brake master system. The pedal load is less than either circuit until one side runs out of travel. You can see it in the video in the recent topic about restoring the Professors car. Also like 20% percent of the workers carry 80% of the load for the shop/office because 80% run out of bandwidth/travel early. I doubt you have more than 6 inches of total damper travel by design. I suggest using a single, 80# 1-7/8 x 10". Subtract 10 from the fully extended seat-to-seat length (not spring free length), then machine UHMW rod for an upper seat spacer (2.25 x 1.875 x 0.50" seat washer optional). The spacer ID is the shaft OD. The spacer OD is 2.25". The step is 1.875 ID x 0.325". Machine the upper id to clear any protrusions from the standard upper seat if any so the spacer sits flat. I have cad again now if you'd like me to draw it for you in dxf for a machinist but you need to provide the missing info. The installed upper spacer will be difficult to see. The spacer can be made thinner if you give up some or all the lower seat adjustment range. UHMW is similar to delrin but not as slippery or as expensive. A machinist should charge much less for cutting plastic instead of metal and you can have the washer laser cut through the mail but there is usually a minimum order. You could make an upper seat or adapter out of aluminum instead of an add-on plastic spacer but it would be heavier.

You're right. They used MGB and pinto racks, and 74-78 pintos came with power and this type of intermediate shaft, but the mounting is wrong. It looks like a 71-72 pinto rack.

That is NOT an MGB power rack. There, I fixed it!

Are the hydraulics going through the rack or the intermediate shaft? If it is the rack that is powered, post pics. Whomever made it likely has a manual version or you just take the valving off the rack you have.

It is leveraging to get something closer to equal tariffs (or free trade with no tariffs). If or when takes two. Upset constituents of foreign states is a significant factor. Your ship date should be far enough out for this to work itself out.

Can't be very specific with so few details in your post, but generally and historically, a car can be built using a donor. The completed vehicle may be inspected for retitling as something other than the original donor or kept as the original title without inspection. Some States take issue with a vehicle that doesn't appear to be the donor. The insurance co may take issue with claims or continued coverage (even basic liability) if they find the car is nothing like the policy description. The line between customized and being something else is usually drawn in mud. A donor may be damaged sufficiently to become "salvage" and then "rebuilt", but the differences range from essentially nothing to major. State code mostly supports insurance companies so they will do business in the state. One common rule is requiring a title to be surrendered on a vehicle if the payout exceeds a percentage of the blue book value. Low value donors may become salvage titled if a claim is paid to repair a scratch in the paint. The owner has the salvage donor inspected (with or without repairing the scratch), and gets a rebuilt title. Some States will not allow a vehicle on the road based on having been "rebuilt" a few times (more money for them if you replace a vehicle instead of repair). The owner has the option of not taking a payout from the insurance co and keeping their title clean. They can also sue the other person instead of accepting the same amount from the insurance co and losing the title. Talk to your insurance co about covering a retitled kit versus a kit that still has the original clean or rebuilt title. Note they may change their mind in the future and decide not to renew (like three wheelers after the insurance nightmare/hooliganism that was the T-rex). Another common rule that helps the state and insurance companies is that local municipalities may not bill the insurance co for the cost of cleaning up an accident. The local services are already paid for but they can still bill a vehicle owner directly for clean up (typically fire department collecting the pieces and maybe sweeping a few minutes). No fault needs to be found for the accident.

I understood what you wanted to do. Don't bump or push the screw as your are tightening and it may work long term. Bad spot for a ground eye. I'd run it out the hole with the other wiring to ground on the chassis. The shell does not need to be grounded.

I can't think of any definite negatives. The toe link moves up and forward with front steer uprights but not much, so ackermann increases slightly and bumpsteer changes slightly. Not necessarily bad changes. washers out of the same bin can vary significantly in thickness, so have enough to stack to the same overall thickness for each side and position. Measure with a dial caliper. Cars are not precise either. If it pulls, try less caster on that side or more on the other.

Look for a rivet with these specs: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rivets/rivets~/mandrel-material~stainless-steel-1/mandrel-material~316-stainless-steel/hole-size~0-097-to-0-1/length~3-8-1/length~0-375/ Could also use 4-40, A286 screws and nuts. More area is needed for epoxy than a nut or even the nut plate can provide. A rivnut for plastic, with a strip of medium hard but flexible plastic that butts against the inside flange and is drill for the rivnut would work well, without epoxy. A hard plastic like uhmw could be filed to fit the curvature of the cavity then drilled and tapped for the original screw. Another alternative to epoxy is to use double-sided 3m foam tape used for hanging rubber body molding on car doors. Usually a thin white tape with bright red peel-away covering over the acrylic adhesive, but either way, adequate area is needed unless it will butt against the inside flange so it won't rotate.