MV8

Great! I see Bruce and WDB are interested! This theory until someone does it but it is fun to discuss. The cars I've seen appear to have enough room between the tire and the chassis rail for a link to clear in roll. A spherical ended link is added below the axle outboard of the chassis tube, spaced to clear the chassis tube in roll. The A frame pivot bolt is replaced with one an inch or so longer and a 1/2 inch or so spacer is used. A drop brkt is clamped to the axle using either the U bolts or direct clamp slightly inboard. This type of clamp on axle brkt is easy to find. The length of the drop should place the eye at the same distance from the axle centerline as the diff A frame pivot and the link is adjusted to be the same length as the A frame. The brkt is lightly clamped, coilover removed, and the chassis supported at ride height, then each wheel is raised one at a time to let it rotate the brkt if needed. The brkt is then tightened and rolled again, trying to find the best spot for the link length and the brkt angle to minimize any potential bind in roll. Once satisified, the ubolts or clamp are fully tightened. The brkt can then be stitched to the axle tube if necessary to ensure it doesn't slip. Witness marks can help determine if it is slipping. Finding the best spot and link length that allows as much roll as the bushings do with the links is the goal. This is not the same as making it a four link. The added link is just an assist and should reduce the twisting to less than it would be with the heavy truss arrangements. The diameter of the A frame pivot bolt will determine the size of the sphericals and link tubing. The brkt can be fabbed from 1/8 to 3/16" strip depending on the design. I suggest double shear spherical mounting at the axle brkt.

I agree. In general, the mid-90s is the peak in sustainability (of the vehicle) with good reliability and bad for repeat business; like an old maytag.

Only thing about the picture is the torsion arrow is pointing ccw for traction. Nobody is interested in how to fix this without welding on four feet of unsprung steel plate or tubing? Anyone? Anyone? Bueler?

Yes, that is what I am referring to. Thanks for sharing. I'd not seen that drawing.

I'm talking about two upper links with an A frame at the diff. The load is not applied evenly between these "fixed" points that are offset several inches vertically and several feet laterally. The axle is supported below a line between the outer and center attachment points only by the housings ability to resist bending and twisting from braking and traction, with the tire as a lever acting on the outer bearing.

I think I've figured out how to fix the live axle twist due to the lateral offset between the upper link at the hub and the A frame attachment at the bottom of the diff without any added bracing and it could be a bolt-on fix with no welding, but I've not seen it done, so I must be wrong.

It looks like this fuel pump, return, and fuel filler combo may bolt on to the existing opening in the tank. You could also add a one inch tall ring or bucket (with a small hole) around the bottom to help keep the return flow at the pump pickup. Hard to beat $110. 3003H14, .080" and rivets would work fine. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/RCI-7080A-Universal-12-Bolt-Fuel-Pump-Hanger,394949.html?utm_matchtype={match_type}&msclkid=1bb64d3ebc12168cbcfd2ab03d0f33fa&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SMI - Shopping (CSE) (Bing) (Brand Hybrid)&utm_term=1100310019383&utm_content=RCI (A7) Also it looks like some sort of vacuum canister in the right rear of the engine bay for the crankcase breather instead of a remote oil filter.

It would be based on the installed axle flange and wheels with the same tolerance as an alignment. Flange runout is typically less than .010". I forget the wheel run out. There is no need to fully weld a brace. 1/2 to one inch stitches every three inches is plenty for a brace. Long beads are more likely to warp. Weld a few, wait a few, wet towels to suck the heat out faster. Alternate between axle ends. Use enough heat for a fairly fast weld instead of a slow weld that has a greater heat affected area.

Tack the full brace so it acts to hold the alignment that exists, then stitch weld in an alternating pattern. If it is not straight to begin with, a rose bud tip to straighten. 3/16 thick plates bolted to the ends, with an offset tab drilled for a 1/2 inch threaded rod can be used to fine tune the spring back to being straight. A little tension, then heat and adjust tension, cool, release tension and recheck.

That is a check valve for crankcase evacuation from the zetec breather in the side of the block. It pulls air into the engine from the right side valve cover hose from the red bottle. Strange combo but I guess it works. I saw a pic of the oil pan which looks to be an oem steel unit modded for ground clearance. The 250hp version is supposed to have an aluminum pan. Also noticed extra material added to the chassis cross member under the transmission, making it square and reducing ground clearance but not the lowest thing. The pedal box is an oddity to me as well but well designed for the brake and clutch. The two bolts and tabs should be free to swivel. If there is no positive stop on the two bolts, they need to be left a little loose to allow the rotation, which prevents the clutch cable end from bending back and forth, eventually breaking the wires at the fitting. The clevis on the throttle pedal should also be free to rotate for the same reason as the clutch cable. The fuel tank vent is capped. A quick fix is to use brake line to make a loop up to the upper frame rail/coilover top, then drop down to the lower rail but above the air stream to prevent syphoning or slant cut on the aft side. Lots of work to do all around.

That is the lower control arm (A frame) balljoint/heim/spherical/rod end, etc.

How much should be induced? Zero is best for reliability of the side gears and spiders. The misalignment created changes the gear mesh.

I still have a few types of lacing cord on spools from when I did this type of work. Easy to find the general stuff if you look for wax twine or similar naming. There is no issue with quality zip ties becoming brittle unless they are close to the exhaust but they all should be (carbon) black to resist UV. Mcmaster has a nice variety of wiring accessories and no junk. Waytek Wire is another online source but you must register as a company to buy. Also Aircraft Spruce. If anyone is interested in learning the methods to tie using lacing cord, see FAA AC43.13-1B. Free online pdf so no need to buy the book. Lots of good information in that.

Before and after Pictures?

If you saying the pump runs as soon as the battery is connected but with the key off, then it sounds like the CAT sourced T2 is configured for pump control but is miswired for power to the ecu or the pump. If the T2 had power all the time I expect you would not be able to shut it off with the key (ignition stays on as well). I'd pull the pump relay and see if the pump still runs and do the same with just the fuse pulled. If it stops, trace from the relay to power and ground on the relay control terminals. The fuse socket should not be shorted to more than one terminal of the relay socket.

He has not. The source of the T2 and the programming have not been shown. These are programmable outputs. If you look at a Pectel pinout for the T2, it clearly states "high impedance only" with the pins in your diagram listed as fuel control being programmable outputs. Fuel pump control is not the default from Pectel, so if the T2 is from CAT and programmed by CAT, and was part of the rover package, then it is likely to have the controls you've described.

Looks like a Chevrolet fuel filter common through the late 90s, plus adapters to fit the hard lines. Look up a 1990 c1500 pickup for an application. Wix 33481 and Fram G3727 are a couple part numbers. The rubber fuel hose near the filter can be replaced by cutting the sleeve over the end, then use a flat screwdriver to bend the edges out and pull it off with pliers. Use a hose clamp. If you wanted to rearrange, you could use a late 80s s10 fuel filter with a hose barb on the tank end and an inverted flare brake line on the fuel rail end, wix 33483 or use the ranger filter. Many options.

Many have adapted efi by running power directly from the ignition to an efi pump or relay. The issue can be flooding or hydraulic lock of a cylinder due to an "in the moment" leaking injector. That is partly why pumps only run for a few seconds during initial cranking. Also, direct power means the pump may continue to pump after an accident, spraying or misting fuel from cracked or broken fuel lines. Safety shutoffs used by oems over the years include vane air flow sensors (mazda), oil pressure (GM), and a resettable inertia switch (Ford) and other mfgs with different combinations but typical of these three mfgs through the 90s at least. If the injectors are new to the ecu (could be bigger and not yet tuned) and low impedance, the injector drivers inside the ecu can be overheated and ruin the ecu. Pectel T2 specifies "high impedance only". I would determine what you have before running it again but it probably would have already ruined the ecu already with the first drive. I like to use a common ford application fuel filter which is also an effective fuel tank vacuum break expansion canister vent (mounted vertical with the upper hose bent around and extending to near the bottom of the chassis). One application is a '94 ford ranger. It has 5/16 barbs made for quick disconnect nylon hose fittings. 5/16 efi hose can be pushed directly on and clamped or the nylon quick disconnect fittings used with nylon or rubber hose installed on the fitting. You may be able to use your current lap top to install XP in a DOS shell, but it would be dirt cheap to find an old lap top and use a power converter to plug it into the car if a new, replacement lap top battery is not available.

You should start a build topic to keep all your work together and make it easier to follow. The hi-res pics are a big help. Fuel system. I see the efi inline fuel pump now next to the tank, trying to self-prime by drawing through about two feet of hose (that does not appear to be designed for suction and probably pinches partially closed) and the glass fuel filter. I expect it is there to act as a "sock" filter that would be at the pickup within the tank. Very restrictive, small surface area by comparison and that much more likely to suck the hose shut. I see they used blue (higher quality?) hose for the pressure side with black (low pressure carb hose?) from the rail to the regulator and from the pump to the prefilter. I don't see a fuel filter between the pump and rail. The hose needs to be high pressure efi hose between the rail and regulator. I'm not sure what regulator it has but I would not trust a gauge with efi pressure long term. Direct reading fuel pressure gauges should be temporary for checking pressure when needed, especially with ethanol content fuel under 40-60 psi. The port can be plugged when not troubleshooting. Also, it appears the throttle cable has a wire around it (for some reason) that is digging into/rubbing the blue efi hose. Everything is rubbing everywhere, but it was worth mentioning. For a temp fix, the pump can be moved or an AGS 5/16 nicopp brake line can be bent, cut to barely fit in-between the filter and pump, and slightly flared to eliminate a sharp edge that can cut a sliver of rubber from the inside of the hose, clogging the pump inlet. The hose to splice the line into the pump and filter can be the old non-suction hose since it would not be possible to collapse between the line end and the pump or filter. Cut two inch pieces. The remaining old hose can be split lengthwise to go around the line, zip tie or clamp down if needed, and keep it from rubbing anything. The prefilter to replace the glass one can be any oem type fuel filter for efi or carb (the bigger, the better) with 5/16 barbs. Should have metal lines through the tunnel but I suspect rubber. I'd also move the regulator to the firewall and make a metal line from the front of the rail to the back of the head to reduce the amount of rubber line, running the efi hoses adjacent and parallel back to the regulator. This allows the lines to be metal and clamped down from the tank and pump to the regulator with just a few inches of rubber. The remote oil filter looks odd to me. Maybe another pic of that with light into the area below it? I'd add a small, piston and spring accumulator to maintain oil pressure when hard cornering on a wet sump. Cams are not advanced/retarded so that's good for now. Looks like they tried changes to the LSA with the exhaust cam at some point but (imho) intake valve closing adjustment is more important for peak pressure bellow the torque peak, balanced with fuel quality and static compression. Valve clearance would need to be checked with any changes. The timing belt idler pulley is looking a bit rough. A metal idler (with replaceable bearing) would be a better choice. If you measure the width, diameter, and bolt ID, I can make a recommendation.

Congrats! Looks like a lot of fun work to sort out in stages. Pictures are not high res so I will guess on some things. I see a few race line components but it being the 250 is unlikely considering what appears to be a remote oil filter system with restrictive hardware store fittings and a highly confusing fuel system. Seems to be a mix match of low pressure carb application components on an efi system. I guess that is a fuel pressure regulator under the ITBs with a gauge on it. What is the range of the gauge? It is possible it is the wrong type of regulator for this system. Return type regulators are much more expensive than traditional types that shut off flow when the set pressure is reached. It looks like the fuel tank has a roll over valve as a vent with no hose, an outlet through a glass carb filter and a return, both through elbow fittings ok with carbs, not with high volume efi. Given it is a seven and tight, I would add a low pressure lift pump next to the tank, put a reservoir efi pump where the remote filter is, run the return into the side of the reservoir, then run the vent/top of the reservoir as a return to the tank. No fuel starvation from cornering. Put an oem type oil filter on the block. I expect the oil lines are brittle if they've seen much use and may not be the right type of hose. At best, it is a oil pressure drop. Pull the plugs then hand rotate to check for binding and oil the bores if needed to free it up. If there is none, spin it over without plugs and put a towel over the top to see what might fly out and listen. Could also do a cold compression test to get a general idea of the condition and look for cranking oil pressure. Take pics of the cam pulleys to note the adjustment. Trust nothing.

K&N offered a huge variety of filters at the beginning but have narrowed it down greatly. You could fit a round filter that is about 13-14 inches x 2 inches and bend it to fit the assembly. I don't know why you need to replace what you have. The filter can be straighten and sealed if there are any damaged areas. It is just window screen and cotton gauze. Short of adapting a round filter, you might as well add individual assemblies that are common and come in different heights.

When rotating the pinion/steering wheel cw, if the rack/tie rods move to the right, then it is mounted right side up.

Looks like a quaife lsd to me. An open diff looks very different as a dark iron casting with big windows exposing the side gears and spider gears. Clutch types (that would use friction modifier additive) usually have windows to access the clutches behind the gears.

I've used uship also, but it was many years ago and for a utility vehicle. It was essentially a message board with escrow. I'm sure the experience would vary greatly.

Not difficult to find an early 70s Capri here for 10-25k, stock-stunning.