MV8

I would not assume the bidding war to $18k in the last 10 minutes means either party has the cash. The standard, v6-60 2.8/3.1/3.4l is plenty of umph, cuts about 50 pounds off the front end, and is "agricultural" in durability and maintenance.

The spitfire tierod probably fits as the tierod but the upper and lower joints are not spitfire or TR7 oem. The spitfire has a trunnion lower joint and a bolt-in upper joint. There are modified spitfire spindles available that add a stud to the bottom to accept a standard rod end, eliminating the trunnion. It looks like these may be TR7 spindles but the oem TR7 lower balljoint is an assembly pressed into an arm and not in a tie rod configuration. Newer cats use a 70s fiat tierod for the upper balljoint but I don't think it is the same as what you have.

I was just watching the vids. Has some cold running issues. That is a tiny steering wheel. A bigger wheel with a quick release hub would be a given for less effort as Croc was saying, cut about 8 inches from the shifter lever, fit some full size round mufflers and maybe run the exhaust out the back. Classact007 really wants this puppy. Kicked up to over 14k now.

Those are actually oem tie rods for something. Short of a known source, you'd need to measure (or have a machine shop do it for you if not equipped with the tools) the taper diameters and lengths plus the thread pitches to determine the closes tire rod based on those specifications. I don't have specifications for foreign tierod applications.

The steering mod causes "quicker" steering at the expense of higher effort. The mod cuts the toe arm end off and drills a hole to make a new, shorter toe attachment that is also further inboard. Standard s10 spindles could be fitted to reduce the effort, with options on the outer tierod attachment and longer adjustment sleeves to reach. Ackeman increases and the geometry is also improved. The fiero and chevette share the same steering rack. This builder may have added a gear reduction in the cowl just forward of the dash panel which would make steering more difficult also. If equipped, that'd be the first thing I'd remove. A power steering pump for a 3800 and power rack from a chevette (fieros were never produced with powersteering) could be added but I don't know how well the pump would fit.

Should be a half inch drive extension to fit the pipe plug socked fill port. No need to remove any bolts, just loosen them all and pry on the cover to break the seal, though a new gasket would be better.

I've seen the pics. There was some discussion about that one in the for sale section of this site. It is updated on Sundays. No need to remove the belt. This is a Brunton car with s10 spindles and axle, four wheel discs and wilwood calipers. The s10 parts are reliable and will continue to be easy to find. I don't like the steering arm mod but it seems to work well enough. It isn't critical which series 3800 it is or which blower it has or how much pressure it makes due to condition/wear. If it doesn't make much boost it should be easier to cool. The hyundai radiator is installed. There is a fuel pressure gauge that appears to be directly mounted to the engine. Usually not a good idea as it can rupture plus it isn't needed most of the time and would hard to see anyway where it is. I'd have the headers coated. Lots of companies will do ceramic powder coat. Probably has the gm ecu buried somewhere in the cowl so that should be reliable and easily replaced if needed. The wiring looks fairly clean and the plumbing good. I'm not sure what is sticking out of the center of the upper radiator tank. The price is still very reasonable.

M-spec but I expect any 2012 or newer model under Minehart.

I didn't join their forum. As I recall, it was an owners only thing but maybe that changed at some point, plus a falling out as I made comments about the toe link mod to the s10 spindles that didn't go over well with a few bubbas who joined the locost forum just to troll, which was quickly shut down before I could respond (probably for the best). No issue with Dennis as I would see him at Road Atlanta during the Mitty. If you'd like to discuss, PM me. I'm localish. Possibly close enough to take a look but I'm not looking to buy right now so no competition.

I take credit for turning him on to the 3800. We were talking about if the 4.3l v6 would fit. He didn't know it would bolt up to the v6-60 T5 bell. I guess it was the late 90s-ish?

Here is a way to straighten the pull-truded wing mounts.

I was just looking at your intank system. To reduce the aeration, I would replace the elbows with full flow fittings, raise the pump by shortening the pump outet hose if needed for the gradual bends of the full flow fittings, and either shorten the horizontal hose or use aluminum tube between the ends with two more clamps on 1-1/2 inch long pieces of hose as couplers to ensure the hose does not collapse. Be sure to use hose rated for intank use.

Same here except no garage (yet). Never enough time.

Don't try it. It might work fine. Send it to me for peace of mind. HA! I dialed the waaayback to Feb 22. Have you fixed the rear wing mount? Do you have the T9 ready to go in? Why are you taking more stuff apart/adding lightness? I have no room to talk, but why should I let that stop me?

I have a 1500 spitfire and the handle looks identical to the tr250 unit in the last link. What do you want to know? It's push-button to release, the loop around the top is a travel stop for the quadrant that is free to rotate unless hooked by the bottom slot, and there is a switch for an idiot light. Distance to the lever that engages the clevis is about two inches, and the overall length is about 11 inches.

They are metric like the "pinto" engine. I believe it was designed to eliminate having to ship all the engines from europe and be more versatile with more displacement for our heavier vehicles. The lima has come with the following 5 speed overdrive transmissions: T5, T9, M50D-R1 and Toyo Koygo.

With a hydraulic system, it depends on how they inspect. Regs call for a mechanical brake that doesn't fail if there is a leak. If it doesn't matter, a small push button valve could be fitted inline to be used after applying the foot pedal to provide the pressure. I think the electrical system would meet the requirement since it mechanically locks the solenoid when power is removed. An intermediate bracket could be used to prevent chassis modification to mount a typical handbrake such as one from an early mini or a spitfire that pulls the cable toward the handle. This could be mounted with the handle away from the driver (more ergo that way imho) or the same way round as the original and a 2.5-3 inch pulley added to reverse the new, longer cables direction.

"Limas" and "pintos" came in domestic pintos so no. Imho, the water pump body and hub give it away. Our pinto initially had the euro-designation "pinto" but was phased out for the 2.3l Lima produced engine. The lima also came as small as a 2.0l (due to a reduction in bore) where the biggest "pinto" was a 2.0l.

The closest oem handbrake I've seen is the early midget/sprite unit.

I wonder what product they used to line it and if the fuel level sender is the source of the rust. I tried that before and it failed. I switched to an aluminum tank with a marine sender. A local shop could build an aluminum tank using yours as a guide for identical fit. I assume you don't want to adapt the car to accept a poly tank to fit the space.

To work with your existing mount, if it is a spitfire handbrake, it would need to be the very early push button to lock type, similar to the mg one you already have.

Why not use the "ask the expert" button for fitting and/or the tanks dimensions? There seems to be either an sv sized tank or a traditional 7 sized tank with port options for either in tank or external pumps. Tanks can be welded/repaired after they've been in service.

Huge following and used in many types of racing, just like the zetec, duratec, crossflow, etc. The engine you have looks like a standard, early 80s 2.3l engine that was likely included with the kit. The carb, air injection exhaust manifold, and vee belt crank pulley, and vacuum advance small cap distributor narrow it down. This engine family is called the "Lima" in 2.0l, 2.3l, and 2.5l versions with many differences. They are all good, simple, low maintenance engines with a lot of potential.

It depends on the fabric condition and glue used. I expect the glue is contact cement or traditional yellow smelly weather stripping adhesive to wrap the bottom of the seat back around the foam around the frame, with the seat back slipping over from the top with the head rest removed. Some photos might help. A wire wheel in a drill could roughen the old glue so fresh glue could adhere.