MV8

Ok, I see 8% quicker for the 8% so it would seem the 22% quicker would be a numerically lower ratio than 8% quicker. The 8% would be lower ratio than a standard rack. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/racks/3011-steering-rack-8-ratio-wide-track-s3-rhd-cars.html

I think you mean 8:1 and 22:1 ratio racks. The higher the ratio, the lower the steering effort to turn the car but the degrees of rotation increase. Turns lock to lock is something else and independent of the ratio. If your racks move the rack the same distance for one 360 degree turn of the pinion/steering wheel, they are the same ratio. I'm guessing these use the triumph spitfire/herald rack but I'm not sure. If you want less effort, a standard replacement spitfire rack (versus a high performance rack) would be what you want with a numerically higher ratio for easier steering. A link to the listing might help.

The cost to have the shop install the cam bearings and new coolant plugs is minimal. The cam bearings must be clocked correctly to align with the oil passages in the block and there is a special tool for installing them. I think the biggest issue for automotive chemicals these days is proper disposal.

The frames are tubular steel and do sometimes break but can be repaired better than new. It is a perimeter tube untriangulated so it can be bent. The upholstery should be removeable without damage, the frame squared up and reinforced in a way that won't interfere with the upholstery, then the upholstery reinstalled. Since the covers are 22 years old, you could remove the upholstery and ship it to a specialty upholsterer to make new using the original as a pattern, then have a local shop assemble. Another option is someone who specializes in aircraft reupholstery.

For fans of the older cat 7, by completing a rough, 30 year old replica/locost, this fellow in NZ covers a lot of common interests. Imho, converting the live axle lower A-frame control arm to a spherical joint on the escort axle would have been a good idea but I think he was just trying to finish the customers car at that point while trying to keep it resembling the build the customer's dad started 30 years ago. The vids are 10-30min each over a 6 month period but are not grouped so I will list them in order here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwH2fcHr9HE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMVkv6rtmPU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFV33vA1eNs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2j-FkL-S5iY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKJaXmvsUkM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtOy4rYPqJw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdFZqbDZDq8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yoz8CFi515w https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRziuZGCKnQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bxM_5QqheE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOGGNJmJd9o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtPXxyl--w8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFKQUnDXtQ0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6UsdYvwkCU

I guess no actual map because they chose not to have a common manifold to show manifold pressure across all cylinders or even one cylinders map as a general reference. I'd go back to solving your original finding (intermittent fuel pressure) first.

I thought this was the mbe9a4 which has map, temp, and baro inputs?

I would have replied sooner but work has kept me in the road a lot this week. Where is the MAP and how is it connected? With speed density, MAP response time is critical and can be affected by placement. I put the map as close as possible to the manifold and use aluminum tubing with short pieces of rubber hose on each end to connect it. I don't know how they utilize lambda or if they use a wide band instead of an oem type but generally, when in closed loop and less than 50% throttle, it is a minor fuel control (8-10%) for keeping the mixture appropriate for the catalytic to function properly and deal with altitude/density changes and engine wear. I doubt this ecu has a learning function that would make placement distance from the head critical for reaction timing. Are you reading a second o2 that is a wideband and down stream from the control o2? I don't know how much control you have with this ecu but I'd try temporarily disabling the control 02 for testing. This can be done by changing the value that the 02 must reach to enable it's use by the ecu. Record all before making any changes. This is only for "repair" testing. If the problem continues, it is not the 02 system causing the stall. Tps is a high wear item in an environment with vibration and large temp changes. The resistance can have spiking values when they are bad. I don't know the tps source. I would have used a common, easy to find oem tps for max reliability. You should be able to slowly rotate the tps checking for jumps in resistance with the logger, engine-off.

The cascade loop through Leavenworth is a nice ride.

I have Goodyear heavy duty tubes with one still in the box. They come as a pair and are advertised as being 80% thicker than standard tubes. The size I have is for 26" x up to 2.3" wide. The tube flattened from the packaging (two layers) measures 2" x 0.110". The thickness was from being squeezed a bit. I think two tubes, cut at the valve and one tube end cut back an inch to lap in the channel would work well to isolate the glass, well enough for sealing, and be long enough to fill the length of the upper channel if it is less than 51 inches. I noticed the lower channel is a bit narrower than the upper.

If the problem persists after the new pump is installed, I'd use a dvm (and run jumper leads so the meter can be right in front of you) to monitor the pump B+ at the relay output. If that drops during the lean spot(s), then monitor the ecu ground to the relay or jumper to ground for testing to see if the intermittent issue is the relay or the ecu. An rpm drop during a lean spot would not cause the fuel pressure to drop unless the ecu broke the FP relay ground because the ecu momentarily lost the crank trigger input, B+, or any grounds.

I guess you confirmed the pressure drop during the lean spikes with the data log? No intermittent on the injector common B+?

Looks like a fun project! Interesting work by the previous owners. The nylon rod mounts for attaching a fan to a radiator are available separately. Looks like they put bolts through the core on a radiator that is no longer available. I'm glad they didn't finish it with the fuel line through the passenger compartment.

Good to check. I think it is just an aluminum version of the standard triumph herald and spitfire hub. Less likely to damage the iron hub with bearing changes. Aluminum on backorder: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-146479A You can also get them drilled for the ford pcd as set with forged axles, but also out of stock. If the hub is just gouged in the bore from ham fisted bearing changes and the outer bearing race is not a good fit anymore, a machinist could weld up the gouges and remachine the bore. Some won't do automotive work and it may cost more than new, if you could get them. Greater dimensional changes from brake heat with aluminum too and little to be gained. You might consider a standard hub if all else fails.

I look forward to seeing what you come up with. I guess you found an incomplete project? Details?

If you want to use the teardrop ones that came with the car, they could be mounted on the sides of the nose just above the unpainted panels around the upper control arm / rocker. There are headlamps that have integral turn signals but can be difficult to see with the headlights on. There are small, surface mount round turn signals that could be place around the nose or in the grill, but most everything besides fender mount will require some fabrication.

I just noticed I was quoted only I didn't say that. It doesn't surprise me at all. My point is wheel to wheel leaps can be avoided with a bit of well placed metal.

Getting close now. Found I didn't have enough dirt for the size of the area (24wx25d plus a foot) without digging too deep. Ordered a full tandem axle load for $250. I was expecting mostly clay but this will be a lot easier to move and level. Need to till the surface again, bring it down, then incorporate the remaining sand.

You might want to reconsider turn signals on the fenders. They will take a serious beating and probably won't last long, even if leds.

Looks like molded plastic or fiberglass. Either way it can serve as a pattern to make a new one or replaced with sheet rubber or a aluminum cover pop-riveted together without compound curves.

Sometimes it is better to just deal with what they claim to have than to give them more to find (as well as all those clients), even if failure to provide these records is another gotcha. Video is not about regulatory CPs but food for thought....

Nice car. Great detail pics too. I like your choice of muffler. Curious about the pipe size. Do you remember the part number or application? Looks stainless. Seems fairly quiet with no pipe behind it. I compiled these last year for general spec comparison but none are stainless.

I remember the solar interior vents from the Road and Track article. Maybe it was for the concept vehicle? I think I still have it. I can share if you'd like.

Nice diagram! Looks like LP-10 glass setting channel in epdm would be a good choice: https://metrommp.com/glass_setting_u_channel_lp_10/ The bottom seal looks to be the same as an mga L-shaped profile or any epdm with a 3/8 leg and what looks to be a two inch leg. All interesting to talk about for folks who build "locosts" that are a different scale where the original screen frame and seals won't work but for you, I'd order the right bits from Cat.

It sounds like you have a dial caliper. What are the dimensions of the upper channel at the spacers (width and depth of the slot)? What is the glass thickness?