jbcollier

Halon (and derivatives) does not work by simply displacing oxygen. It interferes with the combustion process itself. It's very effective. With any gas based system, you need to stop first before firing the system.

I’d forgotten the half-hooders also made full tops, thanks. Weirdly, I have been emailing and calling Redline for months with no response. Any idea what might be up?

Looking for a new top and doors for my 1969 S3. What are my options? Can I fit later Caterham offerings? They have larger windows, zip-out rear window and doors that fold so you can actually store them in the car.

Fibreglass is a problem because, once ignited, it had all the ingredients to keep burning. This makes it very difficult to extinguish a fire once it gets going. So Lotuses like the Elan, Europa, S4 Seven are quite likely to suffer significant damage. A suppression system is a great idea for these cars. Sevens, and most Seven clones, are mostly steel and aluminium, not really a great fire risk. By all means, carry a fire extinguisher! But a full suppression system is over the top unless your racing. If your extinguisher is 30 years old and has never been tested, you have issues! Serious issues! If you are not regularly testing your extinguisher, does this mean you’re also not regularly changing fuel lines?!?! The best way to prevent fires is regular maintenance. Fix it when it breaks is a poor policy with perishable fuel lines!

I have also cleaned up and repaired cars that have had fires extinguished using more common extinguishers. It “ain’t” fun but not a complete disaster.

I have “halon” handheld extinguishers in my Lotuses and as well as halon suppression system in the Europa. You can buy them from aviation suppliers. The newer gases are not ozone depleting like halon and would be a better choice now.

The Lucas alternators and their aftermarket clones are better than the stock generators. Unfortunately, and unlike their US and European counterparts, they do not like to give full output for very long. If you jump a car with a low battery and attempt to charge it using the alternator, it will pop a main diode. The Lucas alt is a good replacement for a generator equipped vehicle. Brackets to do so are readily available and the wiring is simple. But, if you have heated seats and 300w headlights, go with a different alternator.

The alternators disguised to look like generators are usually rated at 40 amps, more than up to the job for a classic Lotus/Caterham Seven. If you have heated seats and headlights that bore holes though most metals, not so much. Then go with a HO option as suggested above. Overheating/running hot can cover a lot of ground. First double check your gauge and make sure it is reasonably indicating the actual engine temperature. Next make sure your thermostat isn’t rated at 190F/88C and is opening properly. Just note the gauge reading when it opens (you feel a surge of hot water at the rad). Given your location, I would recommend a 160F/71C thermostat. Once that is all settled, you can start diagnosing in earnest. Good idea to have the rad checked, these cars haven’t been young fir a long, long time. Don’t forget to use proper antifreeze. It not only prevents against freezing, it also raises the coolant’s boiling temperature, and protects against corrosion. If your car runs hot in traffic but is fine on the open road, air flow through the rad is probably the issue. Stock fans were barely adequate for cool, moist Jolly Old. In Florida, they don’t move enough air to do the job. Fit a fan with wide blades and BIG motor. I use Spal fans myself but supply is an issue these days. Just don’t use one of those whiny-sounding fans with lots of thin blades. They’re a bit too close to useless. Check out the above and let s know how it goes.

The Sevens and early Caterhams had “recirculating”* heaters. Air is drawn from above the tunnel (but still in the passenger compartment), heated, and then out into the footwells. Fresh air heaters draw in outside air, heat it and out into the footwells or windscreen, displacing existing passenger compartment air. * admittedly, Sevens naturally have a high rate of internal air replacement when under way.

Grease dries out and all that remains is the base, wax material (soap in the old days). British racks from the 60s were lubed with gear oil. I now use semi-fluid grease, also known as steering box lube. It’s basically a very runny grease.

No, you are pulling up when the BA smacks.

Lots of ways you could have damaged something. Two methods: - loosen the nut but leave it in place. Wiggle the steering wheel, pulling one side then the other. Many wheels just pop off at this point. Didn't work - repeat as above but have your beautiful assistant smack the column with a hammer (via a brass punch) as you pull. The gets 98% of the rest. Steering wheels that actually need a puller have threaded holes in the boss for that purpose.

wdb: I know! Drives me crazy. Also makes you wonder about the rest of the car if they screwed that simple thing up.

May I offer this suggestion? A really big and bright oil pressure warning light: (photos of my Europa)

He got the Kougar after he sold his 427.

Leave the air filters off and go for a spin. 200 more hp? Do the work and fit a taller filter. No difference? Case closed.

I use toggle switches that are like the ones used by Lotus in period. Cole Hersee 59024 series fit the bill for me. They are HD, metal switches with high amp ratings and available in a variety of configurations. They use the smaller 15/32 x 32 thread size (same as Lotus) rather than the larger Lucas size. YMMV

Depending on your local climate, engine oil (20w50) may make the carb too rich on acceleration. We ran Dexron 2/3 ATF. It's lighter and better suits climates with less dense air (dry, high altitude, etc)

Panasport makes rims that don't have that label. Racing is a controlled environment and the street/highway isn't. Hazards on the street are more varied, numerous and unpredictable while the track is largely a controlled environment. Regardless of the increased speeds involved, unfortunate events on the track are much less likely to be fatal than on the street. As they say in climbing, "It's not the fall that kills you, it's the landing." On the track you end up in the weeds or gravel trap. On the street, gawd knows what awaits. YMMV

These people make upgrade kits that bolt on and fit under the stock wheels. https://britishclassiccarparts.com

My wife is the Oiler's fan -- though I must admit they are playing very well this season. When we go to a game, not often, I wear a Maurice Richard jersey. Edmonton is frankly a stupid place to build a city. Bedrock is a 100 feet down. Our soufflé-like soil heaves and bucks every winter like Trigger with a burr under his saddle. Tough on roads to be sure. That's why my Lotuses have stock springs, stock (skinny) tires, and 80/70 series sidewalls. Love the place though. Grew up in the mountain valleys of south-eastern BC, sunrise at 9:30-10 and sunset by 4. No proper sunset/rises unless you climbed a mountain. Nice to visit back home but I wouldn't want to live there. Generally a leaner mix will give popping in the intake/exhaust. Combustion chamber design, compression and cam overlap are all factors as well. These days we're lucky to have A/F ratio gauges readily available. Weld a bung in your exhaust collector and then no more guessing.

What's up with your Webers?

Can you post photos of the carbs, specifically the linkage where the throttle cable attaches and the two carbs are linked. There are a couple of different styles and it would be helpful to know what you have before commenting. Do you have a sync tool? Have you ANY experience with carbs? General rule of thumb: If there is a problem, don't mess with carb adjustments until you know what's up.

Redline will have them. What you can readily find are Front: 125 lb/11 inch, and Rear: 100 lb /14 inch Love to find 115 fronts and 80 rears.

Just go with the stock springs then.