pethier

If I do anything, it will probably be Accusump.

Pegasus Racing and UPS have really come through. I was told the gasket was to be at the UPS Center in Eagan on Tuesday by 7 PM. I got a call this morning (Monday) that it was in. I have the gasket home and have had lunch. To the shop!

As I recall, the passenger footwell in my 1979 Caterham 1600 was shortened to make room for the oil tank. Fortunately, these cars are long on passenger legroom and I never heard any complaints.

My previous 1979 Caterham 1600 crossflow had a dry-sump and no oil cooler. My present 1700 Super Sprint has no dry-sump.

Thanks!

You use too many TLAs. /s

LOL

To be clear, by "sealer", do you mean Hylomar on the gasket? Nothing needed on the bolt threads?

I drive it hard for 60 seconds at a time spread out over an autocross day. I drive respectably on the road, If it had a thermostatic bypass, I'd be more-inclined to leave it in.

I did a clutch master cylinder replacement on a Miata 1800 and I never touched the bleed screw. I just pumped away. like mad on the clutch pedal until I finally felt the clutch action. Clutch worked perfectly thereafter. Not saying this would work with other cars, but it worked just fine in this instance.

My 1700 Super Sprint is used for autocross and pleasure drives. Long trips to distant places is done in a trailer. I don't drive it for long distances. I don't race or do track days. Is the MOCAL oil-cooler worth its mass in the front of the car? I'm about to disconnect the oil cooler sandwich to change an oil-pump gasket, and it would be quite simple to take the whole thing out. Is there is an extension of the threaded part that holds on the oil filter, or was that entire bit removed and replaced with a longer one when the oil cooler was installed? I guess what I am asking here, is there anything I would have to buy to make the oil filter fit if the cooler sandwich was not there?

My 1700 Super Sprint came to me with NGK B8EC S spark plugs. It seems to run well. Should I stay with these, or is there a reason I should use different plugs? Torque is probably not critical in an iron head, but what should I shoot for? What spark-plug gap should I use? The car is used for autocross and pleasure drives. Long trips to distant places is done in a trailer.

I have an oil-pump-gasket failure on on my 1700 Super Sprint. The new gasket from Pegasus Racing is due here Tuesday. I am assuming the process is: Drain oil. Remove oil filter Remove oil-cooler sandwich by removing large central nut I don't know what to expect here, since i have never installed or removed an oil-cooling setup. Remove pump mounting bolts Pull pump straight out of block I hope the pump will clear the RHD steering column. Clean both block and pump mating surfaces Coat both sides of new gasket with Hylomar and stick it in-place Reinstall oil pump Reinstall bolts What torque? Should I use blue thread-lock goo? Reinstall sandwich plate What torque on the big nut? Reinstall oil filter Put fresh oil in engine Squirt a little oil in each cylinder With spark plugs out and ignition off, run engine on starter motor in short bursts to spread oil throughout the system Check for leaks Replace spark plugs Start engine. Please fill in all the little details for someone who has not done this before. I don't know what I don't know.

In West Saint Paul O'Reilly's, it is $7.60/qt when bought in 5-quart containers.

Sidbar: I used to have an Elise that color. Bordeaux Red Pearl was supposed to be rare, but at one time I knew there were 4 of them in the Twin Cities.

In my shop/garage complex there are; 1700 Super Sprint Porsche Cayman Ford F-150 SuperCrew. Two are strict 2-seaters. One can seat 6. 5 of them will have enormous legroom.

No. I don't know anything about the origin of this Birkin or its engine.

I don't think his interest is going to wane. He is a serious individual.

I assume ITB means Individual Throttle Bodies. I believe that is the Mikuni* setup. I think there is an adaptor for each cylinder and each adaptor in turn carries a Mikuni* throttle body. Have I mentioned that I do not yet have any of this hardware at my home shop? It is all still in his shop's loft over his machine shop. He has a full-coverage hoist, so when the time comes, we can place each component in my pickup truck. * Actually Suzuki Hayabusa Keihin/Denso injection.

That looks like the fuel-injection intake. The Mikuni* setup looks like it occupies similar space as the Weber carbs, so I don't think I have anything that looks like this. * Actually Suzuki Hayabusa Keihin/Denso injection. BTW, I have all my hardware now, including stuff that neither Steve nor the original Birkin owner ever used. I have, and don't need, this injection system, or one like it, from a Ford Contour, the donor car for the Zetec that is going in my Seven.

My friend sold off the Webers. I of course have Webers on the 1700, but I would rather have injection. There are dyno-tuners in the Twin Cities who know MegaSquirt.

I have a 1991 Caterham 1700 Super Sprint and am wondering how difficult it is to install a 2-litre Zetec engine in place of the original 1700 Super Sprint engine. I friend of mine has a Birkin which came to him with a Zetec. He converted it from the side-draft Webers to Mikuni* injection with adaptors. He is now converting the Birkin to all-electric. He has sold me his entire collection of gasoline equipment: Zetec engine, 5-speed transmission, fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel-injection management hardware using MegaSquirt, radiator, the whole ball of wax. * Actually Suzuki Hayabusa Keihin/Denso injection.

No, I was actually doing a "There, I FIxed It." I pulled it out of the dash and had a look. Turns out the plastic case is cracked most way around where the gauge fits into the dash. The DPO probably tightened the heck out of the remaining nut to keep the gauge in the dash. I put piece of Gorilla Tape around the guage and onto (OK, a little past) the rim. Gauge still fits through the hole, but snuggly. Concerned that it was not snuggly enough, that's when I went underdash to stack some sealant tape on the sides of the gauge to keep it in the dash. My fenders project is THIS close to done and I want to go autocrossing in this car.

I have the seats out of my Caterham. I decided to have a look at the fuel gauge that is missing one of its hold-down nuts. Before sticking my head under the dash with my feet in the air, I made sure I had a phone in case I could not get back out. Didn't need the phone. I was able to get myself out because I had something solid to pull on: The angled cross-brace on my Caterham roll bar.