pethier

When I get the car back together, I will put on the top and scope out locations on the roll bar.

Getting closer to a complete car. The RR fender from the factory has all the mounting holes in different places. Since the aluminum is messed up anyway, I will drill new holes in the body and use the factory holes in the fender. Such fun.

I plan to tape them. Running a new wire instead of using the one already in the harness? Pass. I'm going to try to have this car autocrossing this weekend. Unless of course, the 90+ degrees makes me chicken out and take the Cayman...

It hasta be Shasta.

I ordered a set. At these prices, it's worth checking out. It will supposedly be delivered to an Amazon locker this evening. Interesting idea for the rear lights. For the turn signal atop the front fender, there IS no out of the wet area.

Are there any reliable, easily-obtained waterproof connectors for single wires? My Caterham has no connectors for the lights on the fenders, it's all hardwired. I know how to patch wires, but I'd like to go with single-wire connectors just for the ease of working if I decide to mess with fenders again.

Here are the pictures. https://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/albums/72177720318497133/ Once you have installed the conversions. removing the nose is simplicity itself. Remove engine hood in the usual manner. You will have to pull up a bit harder on the front hood springs than you are used to, since you have relocated the upper hook. I have found this is easier on my back if I put my other hand over the upper control arm and the sway bar. Stand in front of the car and push in the upper buttons. The nose will pop out on each side. Spread the nose until the button-halves clear the balls. Lift the rear of the nose until the nose slides up over the headlight/fender brackets. Let the nose rest there. Push in the lower buttons. The front of the nose will fall into your hands. Guide the nose forward away from the car. To refit: Reverse the procedure. Align the lower fasteners first. Since the fiberglass and the chassis tabs are rather thicker than the sheetmetal these things are designed for, the balls protrude farther. You will get used to guiding the balls into the holes in the button halves. Press up the outside rim of each lower button housing with your index and ring fingers. Your tallman finger will feel the button pop down to match the housing. Spread the top of the nose as you tilt it down into place. You may have to move to one side of the car and use one hand to pull rearward on the mouth as your other hand guides the button over the ball. Press in the housing until the button pops out. Move to the other side of the car and repeat. You will soon learn to do this without having to look under the car. No more searching for a Dzus tool, dime, or penny. No more scratches on your clamshell fenders.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BY5MBRHS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 This is the item I used to replace all four of the Dzus fasteners on my Caterham. It required a bit of thought and fettling, but it is completely worth it. I can remove the nose quickly with no tools. Replacing it take a bit longer, but still less trouble than dealing with the Dzus bits. It is more-difficult if you have clamshell fenders attached, but I was successful. I recommend removing the fenders so that you can drill out the old pop rivets. I will have a link to pictures soon.

Yeah. When I installed the rear mud flaps on my Ford F-150, I noticed that WeatherTech gave me aluminum washers. They made sure the word "aluminum" is in the instructions. It also looks like the steel bolts have some sort of coating.

Yokohama 052. Prisoner wheels are 6.5 x 15. At least mine are.

The button-halves are out of the nose just now because the nose was being painted. I will look around for photos I have and take more. So many irons in the fire just now.

I have completed a conversion from Dzus to push-button-release in all four locations. Pix and text will appear in its own thread when i get caught-up around here. It took a bit of fettling, but I can now remove and refit the nose without tools.

Thanks.

This car was ordered as a Complete Kit from the Caterham factory in 1991 by a person in England. I assume that it was assembled by owner. The car was imported about a year and a half ago along with three other Caterham cars by a person in central Illinois. I got the impression that the American did not make changes to it. The car seems to have lived in Northwich (not Norwich, near where Lotus cars are still made).

ICK. Had one on my Europa. Could not wait to deep-six it.

Actually, my 1991 car seems not to have any connectors at all. I had to cut the wires to remove my fenders for painting. Well, I didn't have to cut the ground wires, as they were held to the lights with nuts.

Are the fender-mounted tail lights the factory LED lights?

I expect that in my neck of the woods that a Mercedes color for cars that were sold here would be a lot-less exotic than a Caterham color to the average body shop.

One of the Porsche guys says to use tractor paint from Fleet Farm for black. Maybe you could use John Deere Yellow and John Deere Green. It's amazing how I did NOT damage my yellow one while I had it. Especially considering some of the stuff I have done to other cars. Tonka? As in the toys originally from Minnetonka Minnesota?

Close enough for Jazz? So you mean, Caterham Yellow, now also known as Firecracker Yellow? (Not Caterpillar Yellow...) Do you think anyone would notice if one fender was factory Caterham Yellow gelcoat and the rest were painted Mercedes Sunburst Yellow 1685? Is Mercedes Sunburst Yellow 1685 a current Mercedes color?

Answer from Caterham about the current standard yellow from Caterham: ======= This is now known as firecracker yellow We have a paint mix that is designed to match the yellow gel coat which is Caterham Yellow Caterham Mix AM44=649 AM51=658 AM7=668 AM1=672.6 AK100=1180.6 =======

I just got an email from Caterham about their standard yellow color. I don't know anything about mixing paint, so I suppose I have to show this to a body shop to see if it is useful in the USA. === This is now known as firecracker yellow We have a paint mix that is designed to match the yellow gel coat which is Caterham Yellow Caterham Mix AM44=649 AM51=658 AM7=668 AM1=672.6 AK100=1180.6 ===

A modern twin cam of some sort might make more sense than a Lotus Twin Cam. I'm wondering if a ford Zetec will fit in my 1700 Super Sprint, since I already bought one out of a Birkin.

I picked up the lights from the UPS distribution center today. They are absolutely gorgeous. I can't thank you enough. They look unused and complete, including the factory electrical connectors. It is a shame to cut the wires, but my car does not seem to have connectors. Perhaps Caterham was not yet using the connectors in 1991.