pethier

Just a plain old 12v port from AutoZone. Drill or punch a 7/8" hole through the dash. Insert the core. Reach forward of the dash and screw on the outer shell. Put a negative wire with a LuCar female on the outer shell. Put a positive wire with a LuCar female on the inner core. Run the wires through a rubber grommet in the firewall to the battery (don't forget a fuse on the positive side) and Bob's your uncle.

Disregard

1. My iPhone battery tends to not last the day when I am out. 2. Sometimes at an autocross, I'd like to use my little air compressor. 3. I'd like to use a battery tender in the garage without removing the bonnet. I don't smoke, but I'm putting in a cigarette lighter. I had been thinking already about the first two birds, and then I remembered that they all were similar to the situation with my Cayman. They had been resolved when I bought a used genuine Porsche cigarette-lighter charger for a decidedly-non-Porsche price. The Cayman, of course, has two such ports from the factory. All need to do is drill a 7/8" hole in the dash in an area where the charging cord does not interfere with gear changes, and a smaller hole in the firewall for a couple of wires directly from the battery. This will be a short run. A bit of wire, a grommet, an inline fuse, and I will have a circuit independent of my cutoff switch. I hope I remember to take pictures.

I have 74PHIL. In 2008 I got it, my wife still had her Triumph TR44SUE. Collector plates in Minnesota never need replacement or yearly fees, so 74PHIL was still reserved for me when I got my current Caterham. I had kept the physical plates when I sold off the other car in 2010, so I was allowed to register the same plate on my "new" car. 218 bucks to register the car and I never have to give another dime to the State.

You don't need to send to England for a cutoff switch. Summit and other racecar suppliers here in the USA will be happy to sell you a switch. External system switches are required in many different kinds of motorsports, so even your local circle-track suppliers should have them. There is a special style for cars with alternators, but you don't need that; this has to do with turning off the switch while the car is running, which is something you will never do. The simple switch is all you need. I don't have to install a cutoff switch in my current Caterham since the original owner in Northwich specified one in his complete car kit from Caterham in 1991, but trust me on this, Summit and the like on this side of the pond will sell you the same thing. Looks the same and mounts the same way. Whether you put the required-for-racing decal on your car is up to you.

I believe that in this context, "cats" means "Caterham cars"

Another sad victim of an enthusiastic but stupid spellchecker.

I think I need to go over my reading-comprehension skills again. I'll show myself out.

Why not just replace the spark plugs?

3M Peltor X1A Over-the-Head Ear Muffs, Noise Protection, NRR 22 dB

I have a big Red Ensign. I would like to say my Great Great Grandfather John Cavanagh nicked it when he was a merchant seaman working out of Liverpool but that would be a lie. I really got it from a Lebanese-American school librarian. I once left the flag at the TRF Summer Party, and a kind LBC guy mailed it to me. The bit about my Great Great Grandfather John Cavanagh serving under the Red Ensign is 100% true, though. It's on the 1864 birth record of my Great Grandfather John Cavanagh. The flag I got for free. The birth record i had to pay for.

This clarification was was not meant to correct you. Your text was perfectly logical. The clarification was for others who may have been confused about these two materials. I have seen this happen before elsewhere.

To me, and thanks again!

I only had two places I could mount it. The rollbar was out, because I often have the top on. Either on the front or on the license-plate assembly on the rear. Because I wanted the flag to me seen from a car I was beside, the front won out. The parameters are not the same for a Seven in street traffic as they are for a buggy in the dunes. For a buggy in the dunes, the priority is lots of height, not placement on the buggy.

I forgot a step. Give it another shot.

... and hope they see you. https://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/53932561666/in/album-72177720319624972 https://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/53932561661/in/album-72177720319624972/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/53931658517/in/album-72177720319624972/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/53932804638/in/album-72177720319624972/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/53933008540/in/album-72177720319624972/ In Bob's Cycle Supply in Little Canada (yes, you folks in New England, here in Minnesota we have a city actually named Little Canada) to pick up an extra helmet, I saw they were selling dune-buggy flags for less than twenty bucks including sales tax. I had just been wondering where you go hereabouts to buy such things. This ain't Pismo Beach. The inside cut that I had had to saw out of the 1/4-inch aluminum plate for the cone-redirector (the outside cuts were all sheared by Metal Supermarket to my pattern) yielded a chunk from which I could fashion a place to mount it. When I first road-tested the flag (which is sold in two halves that the user is to simply press together) I wanted to test it on the freeway to see if it would stay together. it didn't even get to the freeway. I was cruising through Cherokee Park at about 25 MPH and it separated. This suggests the question: How slow do they think dune-buggies are? Did a U-turn, picked up the top section and headed for home. I made a little wooden block to drill a hole for a hair pin. I was astonished at how accurately it came out. The drill was only a few thousandths larger than the hairpin, yet I could rotate the shaft 180 degrees in the coupler and the hairpin still fit. I road-tested it again. At 30 MPH it waves all over the place, and I was a little concerned about the freeway. I needn't have worried: At 70 MPH on the freeway, it calmed down considerably. I have since knocked off another 5 inches so it clears the trailer and also is not too high for folks in pickups and vans to see.

Picky clarification, and I am certainly open to education. Plexiglas = Acrylic = Perspec Lexan = polycarbonate You can shove Lexan through a table saw. Much tougher, more-forgiving stuff.

I drive with the top on, no doors. Help a bit with the buffeting, and a lot with the sunburn. I'm lucky that my rear window zips open. I took the advice of another member here to wear lightweight 3M headphones. This one model has half the sound reduction of the full-depth ones. I went one step further and took out the foam. https://www.amazon.com/gp/buyagain/ref=pd_hp_d_atf_rp_3?ie=UTF8&ats=eyJleHBsaWNpdENhbmRpZGF0ZXMiOiJCMDBDUENINjU4IiwiY3VzdG9tZXJJZCI6IkEyTVFJNVMxSk5TT01PIn0%3D&pd_rd_w=VvIDg&content-id=amzn1.sym.847e5829-7b9f-4dac-b414-6765cc1ef5a7&pf_rd_p=847e5829-7b9f-4dac-b414-6765cc1ef5a7&pf_rd_r=R6MR1X5MTKE1V14C5G9A&pd_rd_wg=gJ1Bk&pd_rd_r=9346b236-a6fd-404c-81b5-1a31b258044e

Yes, I got a new RR fender from Caterham in Firecracker Yellow gelcoat. Took it and all the other fiberglass parts to the body shopand had them scan the new fender. They mixed paint to match. They painted all the other parts and returned the gelcoat part unchanged. In retrospect I imght have been well-served to scrounge a new fender in any color and have them all painted a more-common-in-USA yellow. More to your question: Some years back, a Menards guy in Indiana sold me some white paint for my trailer to cover bare aluminum spots where stickers had been removed Rust-Oleum brand WATER-BASED spray cans. He said the stuff sticks well to bare aluminum. Well, it seems to. Maybe a grey version of that is what you seek. I keep the stuff in my trailer. Remind me tomorrow. I need to get the trailer for something else.

Yeah. I did it.

Just for laughs, I checked the Caroll Smith page on Wikipedia this morning. It reports that Mr. Smith himself insisted the story was true and gave out stickers to cover the title on the book with his first choice. Caroll's website is still up, and there is a lot of interesting stuff there. https://www.carrollsmith.com/https://www.carrollsmith.com/ "As of 1/1/2023, we are now handling all orders through our Amazon Account."

A-frame is a great way to lower rear roll center. Agree that welding tabs on a pumpkin looked dodgy. Caterham De Dion use of A-frame geometry looks better. Suspension arms are longer as the De Dion tube is aft of the driveshafts.

And that clears your long (clamshell) fenders?