pethier

I don't have to look at your page to know that you have cycle fenders. There is no way that tool is fitting with a clamshell fender.

>individual throttle bodies sourced from a Suzuki Hayabusa Would those be Mikuni?

I run a square setup, but then-again, I am an autocrosser with 135 HP. My Cat was actually pushing. I have de-frozen the slider blocks and stiffened the rear bar. Testing tomorrow at and autocross in Neosho MO. I also ran a square setup on my Europa Series 2.

Saturday 28 Sep 2024: In the morning, the panorama photograph and concour will be at Lakeside Park 305 Buena Vista Dr Marble Falls TX 78654 In the afternoon, the LOG autocross will be at the Mustang Stadium (high-school-football car park) 1538 Manzano Mile Marble Falls TX 78654 PM me for my cellphone number. My Seven is Ford Moonstone Blue with Caterham Firecracker Yellow nose and fenders. Minnesota license plate 74PHIL.

The Caterham had a serious knock at idle. I suspected that it was the exhaust header striking the bodywork, so out came the nibbler. I enlarged the exhaust port about an inch and the noise is completely gone.

Getting ready to leave for LOG. I will be on I-35 for most of the way. The exception is this weekend when I am entered in two days of autocross in Neosho, Missouri. I am booked Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights in a motel in Neosho which possesses a large parking lot. The larger lot for autocrossing is at 601 Laclede Ave, Neosho, MO 64850. I will be driving a nice white F-150 pulling a scruffy 20-foot car hauler, both with Minnesota plates. PM me for my cellphone number. I passed up the Kansas City autocross on Sunday when I saw that Ozark Mountain Region had postponed a Spring event. Saturday is Solo Event #2 Make Up and Sunday is Solo Event #7.

I didn't have to resort to the blue flame. The slider block finally came loose with liberal application of Kroil and 1100-degree-F air from a heat gun followed by a twist with a pair of vise-grips. Ran a half-inch reamer through the block. Polished all the corrosion off the sway bar with a sandpaper strip and emery cloth. Block is 20mm long. Used one block to to put saw marks 20mm apart on each bar arm on both the inside and outside to serve as guides to settings. I set the bar two notches up (40mm plus saw kerfs). Cat is much-more neutral now. Front tires are sharing with each other better with car rolling less. Plate-style LSD is preventing wheelspin. This has transformed the handling, There is much more overall grip. I can provoke both understeer and oversteer now. May try one more notch at next weekend's autocrosses. I did have to put a little more bend in the endlinks to allow one more notch. They are factory-bent to clear the DeDion tube. Took out the lateral drift on the brackets with slit PEX pieces held in place with hose clamps. Clicky noise is gone.

Saturday I ran a small-lot autocross at a dragstrip near Rock Falls Wisconsin. My Caterham was pushing a bit and I had trouble staying in the power band in second gear. Also, there is a light clicky sound when I drive over bumps on the street. The click is probably the rear sway-bar moving sideways and hitting the hose clamps that locate it in its aluminum-block brackets. First shot at quieting it is to put in a couple of cable ties between the clamps and the blocks. If that does not do it I will slit some PEX. Next, adjust the rear bar stiffer. Problem: I have removed all the fasteners and the blocks will not move. The Heim joints pulled out OK. I swung the bar down. It moves very easily. I shot the blocks with Kroil, smacked them with a wrench and stopped for lunch. At least if I need to use heat, the part is far from anything to damage.

I put a voltmeter on the ring and ran every system on the car. Gaining confidence in not seeing significant voltages, I bolted it to the firewall and drove the car to a Minnesota Triumphs meeting.

Sounds good to me.

I dunno. These Elise guys never said there was an ambient temperature that would make them change. Yeah, I'm in Minnesota, but they weren't.

Bingo.

Anyone going to LOG? The Lotus Owners Gathering will be in Bee Cave TX, near Austin, in a fortnight. The good lord willing and the creek don't rise, 74PHIL will be there. i plan on running Saturday's autocross and shooting at the track days.

Bummer. Maybe it's time to move to 15" wheels.

I didn't remember to twist the wire for this shot: The wire ends in a terminal ring seen here edge-on. The wire was rolled up and cable-tied to what appears to be the factory Caterham harness. Since the wire is black, I checked it with an ohmmeter to ground and found the resistance is 0.3 ohms. Is it safe to assume this is meant to be a ground wire for some component that's doing a reasonable job of grounding itself? Is it likely that it is supposed to be grounded by that fastener there on the bottom of the fuse block? I did not see any other obvious existing places for it to live.

Just curious. Folks who run big tracks in their Elise cars tell me they run Hoosier A7 because the car is so light. Seven cars are lighter than Elise cars. Why would you want to run R7 tires? I'm an autocrosser, and I found out that with a good suspension on my Elise I couldn't heat Hoosier A7 tires. I went to Yoko 052 tires on the Elise and did much better. When I got another Caterham, the Yoko 052 was the obvious choice. I am on stock size tires on the Caterham. 195-50-15 on 6.5 x 15 Prisoner wheels. I have the Bridgestone RE-71RS tires for my Cayman. That's a heavy car, and the suspension geometry is not all that great.

Port is comfortably left of the centerline so my iPhone cable will be well-clear of my left arm. I have a bunch of battery minders lying around. Each of them came with both a pair of clamps and a pair of terminal rings. The rings will be used as-is. As for the clamps, first I labeled the wire for the black clamp POS POS POS. Then I labeled the wire for the red clamp NEG NEG NEG. No, that's not wrong. Then I cut off the clamps. Here is the complete wiring harness for the project. The rings will get stuffed one at a time through a grommet in the firewall. Figured out yet why the labeling is not wrong? A well-dressed harness. The connector and its grommet is at the lower left. The port is rated at 7 amps. Fuses come as 7.5 amps. I don't have one anyway, so I put in a 5-amp fuse. It has tested OK for my air compressor. I will address that loose wire in another thread, as it has nothing to do with this project. In the engine room, I tied the wires to the plastic air horn to stop them playing with the steel horn brackets bolted to the heater box. Before I connected the rings to the battery, I confirmed the polarity with a voltmeter and my Porsche charger. See, I told you those labels were not wrong.

Just go AutoZone and spend six bucks. /s

Tell me again why you don't leave the original rivet in place and put a new rivet near it.

I imagine that Caterham Cars LTD designed the Prisoner wheels to be fitted on the Prisoner Special Edition. The hubcap fits the wheel in only one way. Why did they put the air valve in a position where access with many air tools is blocked by the number-plate mount?

i first used these when I worked at 3M Central Research circa 1970.

BTW, the covering on the dash is very tough. I had to use the carbide end of my scribe and it took several passes.

Twenty years old or the company is not still making automobiles is the law in Minnesota for collector plates. And any car eligible for collector plates, whether or not it actually has collector plates, is exempt from the requirement to display a front plate.

Port is mounted. There is an existing 3/4" hole dead-center on the dash, below two gauges. Nope. Too small, too low for the unit to clear the steel tube at the bottom of the dash. Just put back the rubber plug. Left of that pair of gauges is a pair of rocker switches. The bottoms of these switches are higher than the bottoms of the gauges. Bottom tube plus the aluminum/vinyl dash skin that wraps under it is 1.100". By coincidence, that is the the diameter of the outer shell of the power port. Radius of power port is therefore 0.550". 0.550" + 1.100" = 1.650" Round up to 1.750". Set my Starrett angle-head to 90 degrees. Pop in a rule and set it to 1.750" with my caliper. Scribe a short horizontal line roughly directly-under the gap between the rocker switches. The depth gauge on my caliper is just a little narrower than half the distance between the rocker switches. I pressed this gauge against the left edge of the right switch and scribed a line where the opposite edge of the guide crossed the horizontal scribe. Reversed the procedure for the other switch. The two vertical scribes were very close together. I drilled a tiny hole between the two vertical scribes and directly on the horizontal scribe. Followed that up with a 1/4" drill hole. Grabbed a conventional 7/8" hole saw and worked it by hand to score the vinyl. Probably didn't need to do that, but taking no chances. I happen to have a five-carbide-tooth 7/8" hole saw designed for trepanning metal. I had used that when mounting the ports for my trailer camera. Chucked it in a drill motor and started making aluminum chips all over my lap and inside the car. Installed the inner core and rubber plug in the hole, then threaded on the outer shell. Did a little back-and-forth to get the text on the rubber plug right-side-up and to get the male spade for the ground on the bottom of the shell. Shop-Vaced the aluminum chips off me. Shop-Vaced the aluminum chips (and the usual small stones) out of the footwell and off of the seat. It looks like I will have lots of clearance from the phone cable while practicing my left-hand shifting. No pix yet. I forgot to bring my phone with me. My second daughter is worried that I will get stuck in the car. No problem. I have the shop land-line cordless... Next stage: Run wires from battery to power port, using grommet and an inline fuse. This is not a racecar, so having the power port independent of the external shutoff is not an issue. Autocross rules don't care if you have an external shutoff.

Not planning on fishing around under the dash for the port. The choke, the ignition, and the heater control are quite enough, thank you.