Anthem

Yes, pretty much most hydraulics systems should be tested on bench before installations.

Wow the timing of this posting, Today just got my Tarff bill through FedEx via mail for a eBay purchase that came from China @37.5%.

For me, CERAKOTE Ceramic Trim Coat. Not sure how it would work on something you touch like switches. Last year I inherited a Toyota that lived outside everyday for 10yrs in Florida sun&heat before I got it. Got it repainted serval months ago because the clearcoat was peeling on the roof/trunk and the black plastic trim was dry and had a crystalized like surface finish, the Cerakote worked nearly perfect, at 2 feet it looks brand new so no need to have the trim replaced, the body shop wanted to know what I used as they saw it before, during the estimate period. It's been over 4 months and it still looks great, car sits outside everyday. Amazon CERAKOTE® Ceramic Trim Coat Kit

I kind of collect tools. I have nearly all the Milwaukee M12 tools and some M18 and pack-out stuff. I like using air and ac power tools mostly. My air riveter is more powerful, more compact and has more controllable mandrel pull then the M12 at half the weight. Used the M12 only a couple of times so take what I say with a grain of salt. Pic: I removed the catch-tank for more clearance. I noticed that the spent mandrel doesn't always eject, probably my technique since it's not my go to choice. I do like the way the extra pin dyes and wrench are held.

I like my new USA7 mug. It is replacing my NASA mug. The USA7 mug is lighter and to me a more comfortable handle. I chose white because I like to know what's growing at the bottom. (Edit spelling of growing)

FYI my Caterham has Clamshell fenders. For me the trajectory of the debris are at low speed 25mph when warming the drivetrain while in my subdivision trying not to disturb thy neighbors, luckily always wearing sunglasses (eye protection) in the Caterham. The Avon's ZT7's that came on the car didn't do much of anything as they were old and hard, now running the 195/60-14 RT660's 200 treadwear that's when the showers started. I have other cars with 180 and 260 treadwears but body designs impede the showers, before the Caterham last time I got showered was riding my mountain bike in muddy conditions

Do they make you miss the splatter of road debris sounds against the body work and tossing small stones into the cockpit? UnderSeat Treasures:

Would something like this work on the original steering shaft? https://usa.minisport.com/mini-quick-release-steering-wheel-boss.html 6x70mm 9x105mm

Thinking Older, Karl Benz!

Yes, powder coating can hide this well until the hardware is moved, especially on lower torque hardware, the lifted coating has the "bite marks" but the metal surface is clean of any interface. In tight shadowy areas can be a challenge to visually inspect until corrosion, flaking, etc can be seen. https://www.sherex.com/wedge-locking-washers-and-nuts/ https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/products/washers/ Watch out for some of the copycats from china, the ramp edges aren't as "sharp". Edit: spelling/grammar

For me the Se7en body looks so good without a roll bar.

This subject made me wonder if my scope probe is fuel safe.

What! I retired at 58. Now I have to work again!

Do the Emergency flashers work? Just asking to take the relay out of question.

Even though this is my first Caterham it is far from my first convertible. I always degrease the factory grease from the rails and other moving bits then use a dry lube, use to use a Finish-line mountain bike dry chain lube, I switched to DuPont Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant Aerosol first car I tried this on was my '18 AMG GT C Roadster and it has ingress & exit seat movement so it gets movement every time it's driven. On my Caterham the one rail (the floater) will slide with gravity, easy as a hot-wheel car on a hot-wheel track when the seat is removed you have to be carful as the rail is kind of sharp and could scratch something -I use a rubber band. If you find you want to move forward more even after pedal adjustments (mine doesn't allow this) you can flip the rails. Note: as you move more forward your belts may become out of proper alignment to your body so their anchor point needs moving. There is seat belt hardware for doing this. In the picture you can see written on the floor in pencil "OE and Flipped +1"", the rails will actually hit the frame, you can see the locking rail is at the most forward lock position before it hits the frame -it could go farther if the rails where spaced higher to clear the frame. The whitish haze stuff on the rails is the dry lube.

@Vovchandr Is there a reason why you don't use a Vacuum fill? I'm new to Caterhams, don't know all the different models intricacies -maybe something will collapse and break?, mine with a heater the vacuum-fill worked like any of my other cars do.

For me it use to be Mini Van's with middle aged men on a milk/tampon run, that thought they would have their dream car by now. Al Bundy comes to mind. LOL

I used the OE Caterham tray and modified it. @Taber10 I used these for battery terminal covers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NBKWT7Q?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

Afco https://www.afcoracing.com/store.aspx?itemid=3432&prodid=19272&pagetitle=14"-Chrome-Coil-Over