twobone

One thing that I don't understand with this approach is that there are not cutoffs on each side of the heater. Would the heater block still not get as hot as the coolant unless it is shut off completely?

I'm thinking of something like this. I borrowed this pic from Rob's posting on the for sale forum. I assume this is no less likely to cause an airlock then a standard bypass valve. Any downside to this approach?

I'm RHD so I think I can make a big difference with a proper bypass. Not sure I want to do a cockpit lever system. I may try to rig up a set of t-valves

Anyone do a heater bypass with valves on a caterham? Best options for parts? Anything special to know?

Thanks BlueMax. My engine is fine....knock on wood

Hi Daniel, I'll check out the videos when I get home. Damn workplace blocks YOUTUBE. Are you the new owner of that car? It was for sale for a while, right?

They are building new Kent blocks again. I'm sure a used Zetec is cheaper, but for the purest... http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=9127&utm_source=201106&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=201106

The internet is an amazing tool. I managed to find a wiring diagram for a Lucas type electronic triggered ignition that is similar to the one on my car. Lo and behold it shows that the coil needs a ballast. Thankfully NAPA can get me a proper coil. Hope to have it installed and running today. We have a day long Lotus club run on Sunday and I really don't want to be stranded!

crap that was dumb. The Bosch coil I replaced had a built-in ballast resister. The $50 Accel coil I just bought does not. Guess I'm asking for trouble...back to square one

I'm equally worried. The new coil is really hot. How hot does a coil normally get? I've never had a problem with my battery.

Skip I think you hit the nail on the head. The old Bosch coil was screaming hot. I replaced it with a coil from the local auto parts store. I hope to take her for a drive later tonight to test the fix. It now makes total sense as the deterioration after 30 minutes of driving was very pronounced.

The following is stamped on my distributor Piper XF 26 AT 4000 Do you think that means that I have a Piper cam for an Xflow and the timing should be set at 26 degrees advance at 4000 RPM? Originally, I thought that was a make and model designation. However now I'm thinking it is permanent tuning instructions. Make sense?

I think aspects of my ignition may need replacing. It is an original set up from the late 80s from Caterham. There is a Lucas electronic box that is mounted to the firewall that is connected to the non-vacuum advance distributor. Particularly after about 30 minutes on the road, I'm getting rough running and hesitation. I just find the engine sounds harsh and there is poor acceleration. I have the carbs well tuned in so I think the ignition system is not operating properly. Perhaps I should just start with replacing the cap, wires and coil now that I have new spark plugs installed. Any advice is appreciated.

Hi, I'm going to be joining the local Lotus chapter for a spring run on June 5th. The contact info is in the attachment. Membership is only $10 a year

from the fall British car day in Oakville

cool thanks

I'd like to try out the Gunson Colortune 14mm and a Weber synchro guage for a DCOE 40. If anyone has one or both on the shelf for sale, rent or borrow, please drop me a PM Thanks

Parked up next to a GTR was a very interesting contrast in all dimensions. That car is massive in both weight and dimensions. It is all about electronics and horsepower. The engine bay is absolutly packed. Not an inch to spare. I prefer the simplicity of the seven and so does everyone over 30 years old. The under 30 crowd was more interested in the beast

B8ECS NGK Lovely bevelled gaskets. Short depth. Very nice Ordered from ebay uk. 15 GBP mailed to my door for 4.

Just received a set of proper plugs from the UK. The gasket shims are properly bevelled and the electrode is shorter than the others from the previous owner. Wow, my mid range just gained some serious grunt. I have to tweak my low speed as it is backfiring a bit and stumbling. Make sure you have the proper plugs.

Its very high up. Right under the top of the nose cone

Must have over tightened

OK, so I changed the oil filter on the remote housing that sits on top of the Front chassis rails. The filter mounts horizontally so it leaked oil everywhere when I changed the filter. Then once the replacement was on, I think I may have failed to properly clean the flat mating surface. Then I probably put it on too tight. Now it leaks. OK, now that I've done it wrong....please walk me thru the right way. Much appreciated

Is the owner of a black and aluminium Caterham in Mississauga part of this forum? I saw him on the road the other day, but did not get a chance to say hello.

Amazing work as expected