Croc

Fiberglass gives spider cracks from the stones hitting underneath or on top. Not much you can do about it as it just happens. Film or no film, spider cracks happen. What some people have done is coat the underneath of their fiberglass wings in truck bed liner. Stops the stone hit transmitting through to the top surface, unless it is a really big stone.

Just for those who may not normally browse the classifieds - I thought this nose cone demonstrated a rather unique perspective one does not always see on a Se7en. I am used to seeing headlights out the front of my car but this is an interesting variation. From here if you want to see the full ad: LocostUSA.com • View topic - MCC 7 for sale

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A genuine 1981 chassis will be imperial. Changeover to metric occurred post 2000 sometime. If you want I can check your chassis number to be sure, as year of chassis should be coded in that - PM me with it. The recent leather seats are called "S Type" seats. Assuming this is what you mean? Photo shows it missing headrest. For the Caterhams with the two individual seats, they have bonded three-sided aluminum channels under the floor to provide floor rigidity for the seat mounting point - 4 of them running longitudinally. The seat frame then bolts through these. So you would need these. Inquiry of Caterham may be able to source them otherwise you would need to fabricate here. For seats, there are two types, the S3 type and the S5/SV type. SV type are a little wider. Going off the top of my head the width was an extra 1.5 inch between the 2 versions. The S3 width should fit your imperial chassis, as the size variations were minimal but noticeable, but you need someone on here with a recent S3 build to measure their seats to confirm width of seating tub area and width of seat just to be sure. I have an SV chassis so cannot help here. Lowered floor is an option on Caterhams - both chassis types of S3 and SV. I just checked the parts site and I can see they have imperial chassis lowered floors for an SV. You would need to ask Caterham if they can supply a lowered floor for a pre-long cockpit imperial S3 chassis and before purchasing confirm with them it will work for your car. Lowered cockpits came in on the long cockpit imperial S3 chassis and were then modified in the conversion to metric. Caterham may not make one. In which case you would need to fabricate. One question, I do not have the answer for is whether the lowered floors still use the three-sided channels for seat mounting? I cannot recall and it may not be needed as the lowered floor shape may offer sufficient rigidity for the seats to mount safely. A lower floor installation is just a removal of the existing ali panel floor rivets on the two floors (driver and passenger), remove and then apply new lowered floor and rivet. As to whether this is easy to do is subject to opinion but I am sure a good race workshop would have no problem installing both the seats and the lowered floors if you decide you don't want to try.

@PokeyI get those black marks but the solution is use WD40 and then give a soap and water wash afterwards so no WD40 remains.

@kayentaskierNot at all - 5am - normal time for me to get stuff done. I had a busy day at the beach planned....

@kayentaskier Thats exactly how I did it. I had the carbon fiber wings and just did the 3M film over the top. No stone guards. Its lasted 10 years although could do with a reapplication of the 3M film looking at it today. I think I still have the original Caterham carbon stone guards that came with the CSR in my garage - never installed them.

@JBH And still a very quick car! @Vovchandr Yes we read your threads - look at view count.

@Bruce K Come on Bruce - your wife is quicker than you!

Burnishing is wear. If it appears on the camshaft surface then it will be worse on the tappet surfaces (for the Zetec) as they are usually softer metal. Interestingly the burnish marks are not even across the face so that tells me something was not evenly aligned or machined correctly. When you have disassembled completely you will be able to do a proper close inspection of the marks and see if any surface pitting exists on the camshaft (which would not be a good thing). I would expect the tappets will need replacing if that truly is burnishing on the camshaft.

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No that could have been where the head had been skimmed too much as it is an old reused POS and you needed the extra gasket to get to a compression result. I have done that with Holden engines back in the days when I was young and stupid.... ...since then I have gained much experience on why that may not be a good idea.

Thats great news Jeff! Which track were you running?

@Lucky-7 What year is your car please? If 2013 or later then the photo @Vovchandr really needs is of your AP front hub and mounting point for the stay for front wing so he can compare that to his. Your wing stay lower mount point and front hub should be different to his as the manufacturer changed over time.

For the record, you convinced me there was a problem with your combustion process in your temperature scans on June 21. I wish it convinced you at the time. That cat converter was hotter than the sun. A single cold exhaust header tells me unburned fuel is making its way out of the engine and then combusting in the exhaust/catalytic converter. Cat converters are really expensive to replace - don't damage the one you have. Your car has more problems than a Republican politician found in bed with a dead girl or live boy (with apologies to Gov. Edwin Edwards who died this week).

@birkinsuper7 I like the way you roll! May you have many more happy miles.

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Thanks @fastg and @papak

@Kitcat Yes it was a Caterham 6 speed. Now I suspect it is a metal casing full of shredded metal based on the many expensive noises it makes when you try to rotate the wheels. Very little warning sign - I changed down from 4th to 3rd and felt the change be slightly unusual - stiffer and shorter than normal in my hand, no noise indicator. I was sensitive to gear changes because I had been shaking down the Holden in the previous session to decipher its gear change issues and evaluate suspension set up changes. So I backed off the speed immediately and was planning to come to the pits to check it out. I made it another 500 feet before it all locked up and I did a Kitcat-quality tank slapper. Fluid in gearbox was fresh and at right level. No leaks or prior issues. Changes felt clean and normal right up to the last one which is where I sensed a problem. Clutch is a year old and feels normal, even after breaking the box. I could still select gears cleanly with engine on stationary with clutch depressed so assume its output shaft area thats broken. It was very sudden. Its 11 years old and 10,000 miles, most of that on track. So with that perspective maybe not a surprise. Replacement box secured and the old one will be rebuilt. These things happen

@fastg I agree - CMP is a very promising track. Freshly resurfaced too. The message from Steve was that it suits se7ens well now. @Kitcat Sadly I will now not be making the August option at CMP and it will probably not go ahead[. I had an expensive day yesterday when my gearbox blew up on track. It locked up solid throwing me rather violently into your special grassy regular parking spot at Thunderbolt at the Devil/Octopus. I thought of you while sitting there waiting for them to stop the track and recover me.

@papak Education time for me please - whats a "Nord-Lock" washer?

Caterham Crossflow at Bringatrailer Caterham Super 7 for sale on BaT Auctions - ending July 15 (Lot #51,247) | Bring a Trailer

@wemtd and that is why I am confused. Normally I would expect to see a pressurized system because you want the extra boiling point gain. You can run an unpressurized system but most engines operate at better combustion efficiency (with more power etc) at some elevated temperature and the problem is that temperature is too close to boiling point such that an unpressurized system will not work with the normal temperature variations you get using a thermostat and localized hot spots or environmental condition stresses. I have not heard that a BDA or a crossflow would want to operate at 71 degC - seems low but assume @BlueBDAJeff checked it? Cars moved from unpressurized cooling systems to pressurized ones around the 1940s. I ran an unpressurized system on my old Caterham Zetec SVT when it was running Evans Coolant because the liquid allowed a better tolerance of temperature range from improved cooling via liquid transference. I was experimenting - it worked well but I did not think it was doing anything special that justified it was a better solution than a regular pressurized system with regular coolant/water mix. @Kitcat I don't recall any overheating on this engine. In its earlier crossflow iteration it did once overheat but Stewart stole the BDA out of his wife's Elan to install in the Caterham, which is how it ended up with a BDA. So if genuinely unpressurized then a cap should make zero difference in this puzzle since it is an open system? @BlueBDAJeff - is the thermostat housing cap pressure rated? Should not be based on your earlier comments but just checking as both @ashyersand @coffee break have raised very good points. @BlueBDA Jeff - for avoidance of doubt, in the photo is the coolant catch tank the plastic one mounted to firewall? The metal tank then is the dry sump oil tank? Does the coolant overflow tank vent excess pressure? Or is it just a hose stuck through the side of the tank? I.e. it vents via hose entry? Lots of questions: - Yes - a single 3mm hole should do it - What gasket? On thermostat housing cap? No RTV - Yes to filling via thermostat housing cap. - Don't know bolt torque sorry.

Lets keep it simple for now. No need to assume the car has all the STDs that Vlad's car has. @BlueBDAJeff - Can I please clarify If its a pressurized system or not? You say it is open to atmosphere which I read as unpressurized but most pressurized systems have a sealed catch tank for overflow. Is it sealed cap? Reason I ask is first check point is the radiator cap - do you need a new one or one with a better pressure point? Good re the fan switch check. What trigger temp does it come on at? Thermostat temp hopefully? How did you test that? Assuming thats ok, then you look to the thermostat and whether it is opening correctly or not. Test what you have now in a pot of increasing water on the stove with a thermometer or just bite the bullet and install the new one. If you have no other symptoms at this stage, I would suspect thermostat as the culprit. Like @wemtdPaul noted, I am a fan of drilling one or two small holes in the thermostat so coolant is always circulating to some modest degree. While those bucket things Vlad posted a pic of work well, sometimes you need to study the cooling system as decide if there could be a localized point of air getting trapped and install a bleed valve there. Unlikely but I mention it, just in case.

@fastg Hi Graham - not enough interest to make the financial numbers work at this stage. I am exploring joining a private hire group with Steve and Maureen (ex-NJMP) in the second week of August (9th to 12th area - 2 days). If that gets going and you are interested, I can get you in - open track format. If that fails, not sure then.