Croc

Oh no I have Cat. Specifically something that is actively trying to kill me. Not sure which year Bruce is planning to test the CSR in July….

1. Yes. Many times. 2. no. But my switch accidentally fell off the car on purpose last week so it will not bother me again. I have not been upside down in cars since the 90s so I am safe. Hold my beer….

I think you need to give this some more thought. How would you make it “vertical” any more than it is already?

@BruceBe any comments re KatKong?

https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/sold sold past tense and past participle of sell

Mine were wet sump with baffling - Raceline pan. If you want to try give it a go but keep close watch on the oil pressure gauge and adjust your driving accordingly. Long rights do have a tendency to force oil into combustion and you end up with a smoke screen out the back as you add throttle back for a straight - no harm unless you are following and getting second hand smoke.

Oil is heating from heat soak - 36C ambient is enough for that (you did mean celsius and no fahreheit?). 5W30 is pretty thin - I use it in my cars. You have lubrication but its getting pretty thin. I've always preferred a semi-synth for this reason - it stays slightly heavier under temps. Thats why the pressure looks low - I have had two SVT Zetecs- both did the same. Don't be too alarmed. A slightly heavier weight oil is not a bad idea. Never do any track work without a dry sump on these Zetecs - longer corners are a killer for loading oil in the wrong spots of the engine. Autocross is fine. However, check your thermostat. You should not be overheating, even with those ambient temps. I thought the SVT Zetec used a 95C thermostat? Was fan cutting in and operating? Maybe it was just too ambient hot to get enough airflow? If so then maybe add a manual fan override switch for those autocross days? There is something happening that I would be checking out.

Sold.

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On 15 inch wheels do: front 19psi cold rear 20psi cold I think the CSR owners manual is a single psi off that. Experiment but you are aiming for about 25psi once tire is up to hot temps. If you ever go 13 inch wheels then it’s: front 18psi cold rear 19psi cold I'm not a fan of the R888R. After a few sessions you will find they go off and start to understeer like a pig.

Its the same. I don't need a funnel. Just put nozzle in. Twist to left slightly and pump in at half speed. Just need to be patient.

Given I have owned a CSR for 15+ years, I have made it a point of collecting technical information over the years to help me. It has been pulled together from other owners of CSRs I know globally. All of that gets put in the library for sharing.

Stick to 93 octane. I know the standard ECU map is stupidly rich but it will start to knock on 91. You can get away with a blend 91/93 but why would you unless it is an emergency (e.g. no other option while touring). @pethier I think you bought Darren's CSR out of San Francisco? I'm not sure that received a standard map when the second Cosworth went in? (from my admittedly fuzzy recollection). If I was you I would assume you need 93 all the time. Its a Cosworth engine so you have to treat it well - one of my favorite engines of all time.

Its not exactly a 620 despite the label. Actually a 700S..... #faaaaaarkitsquick #gripchallenged

The purple one has all the problems of a politician found in bed with a dead girl or live boy. #bitchslap

No you should not be able to look through. There is the black plastic tongue thing linked in the part. The hole is for the coolant pipe to radiator showing on the left side of your photo.

Talk to SBFS directly. They once told me the the storm cap did not fit all CSR models. That is a while ago now.

@pethier Makes sense to keep things separate as they are vastly different cars from the De Dion. Nothing wrong with a stream of consciousness thread. Enjoy Darren's ex-CSR. Its been well developed over the years. In case you have never noticed, there is an extensive collection of CSR technical literature in the library. As I find things I keep filing them there.

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Its a big readjustment process but incredibly rewarding as a driver. Most people come from bigger cars which have enough weight over the nose to just hammer the wheel left or right and the car just goes. However, a Caterham (or Birkin or Westfield or Locost) just do not have the nose weight when under acceleration so a left or right turn in that state will just lead to scrub. A brief lift of throttle or light tap on brake is nearly always enough to put more weight on the nose/front wheels to get them to bite for your turn. Then you can play with throttle in the corner to adjust attitude. Think of it in a sequence. Corner coming up. Brake to get weight over nose. Once weight is on nose then off brake and turn in. Once turn iniitated then start to feed in power progressively to come out of corner quickly. Slow in and fast out. Ross Bentley in his Speed Secrets series has a good section on managing weight transfer around the 4 wheels for varying outcomes. Find his first book in the series and have a read. Then go out and experiment - great opportunity for a track day since you can do it safely plus repeat corners to adjust technique and get a good seat of pants feel. Also read his section on trail brake as this is a great technique for keeping the rear end controlled under late braking entry to corners - Caterhams respond well to trail braking. Its more lack of weight on front tires under acceleration. Its not a 50/50 weight distribution front to rear as a driver is a lot heavier than a 4 cylinder Ford engine. Obviously with the aerodynamics of a brick, there is some front end lift which exacerbates the problem. The example corner for me is Copse at Silverstone. Its the old turn 1 if you are using the old pits. Its 60 foot wide track going and about 80 foot wide coming out. I go in at redline in 4th and have 15 feet of available track on exit, even without braking or lifting. And I scrub understeer the whole way through. I do not need to tap or lift as the track is so wide. But I have to do a lift to set the front tires up for a quick corner. Frustrating. Luckily there are not many places where that is an issue - top corner just past the rising esses at VIR, Copse at Silverstone, two corners at Portimao, entry into corner 1 at double Gauche at Spa, etc. Caterham sell one for rear camber and toe: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/de-dion-tube/6531-camber-and-toe-shim-kit-de-dion-cars.html I would ping Josh at Rocky Mountain - I bet he has some in stock. You do need to know where you are starting from on rear alignment. How much rear camber is dialed in from the standard de Dion. Should be 2.5deg but that is not guaranteed - check will tell you. Borrowing a photo from someone else since I am flying this month and won't be near my cars until June. Front - back of wishbone. Photo shows a more recent model Caterham with ali skin. The ruler points at measuring point. My measurement was ground to chassis tube as not all cars are covered in ali there (e.g. older chassis and race cars) but you can deduct the right amount of ali skin cover from the 120mm. For the rear measurement point, do it ground to chassis tube at the rear axle point - no photo handy right now. Its not much - only +5mm rake front wheels to back wheels.

Just thought I would add my starting spec for my various de Dion cars over the years. This is intended to feel good for a track but I find it works well for road too although it can make the car sensitive to tram lining. It does not matter what spring or shock combo you have for this. Front Full caster on wishbone washers Camber - For a LHD car on treaded tires you can go 3.2RHS and 3.0LHS. Full slicks will bring this down a little -0.2 -0.1. This allows for weight bias of driver on side to side balance. You may want to just be 3.1 both sides initially and then dial in divergently each side as you test. 1mm toe out Rear 2.5deg ears with shim to get 2.6 camber. Most people do not shim but I think it is essential - particularly on an SV. Start with no rear toe in. Dial in after you baseline iniital spec - I bet you will end up at 0.1 as you mentioned in your post as that is where I usually end up. Ride Height Measure ground to chassis rail and not ali skin as older chassis and race cars have exposed tubes - the newer cars have ali skin. If you are measuring to ali skin then modify measurement accordingly. Its 120mm at back of front wishbone +5mm rake at rear - Caterhams and Westfields are quite sensitive to rake. If you want higher ride height then same process to achieve right rake. This is start point and I then tweak one change at a time from there as no one chassis is the same - they all feel slightly different - at least on a track where I can replicate driving again and again to check feel on a standardized corner. It is essential you baseline then change only one item each time thereafter otherwise you have no idea what each change is doing to improve or worsen the car.