Croc

With standard (non-lowered) floors and standard roll bar/standard track day roll bar was marginal clearance for my head - maybe an inch. Adding lowered floors creates about 1.5 inches extra clearance. Adding the tall track day roll bar creates another 1.5 inches clearance (over the standard track day roll bar). Going from regular leather seats to Tillets gives you an extra 0.5 inches and if you take out the seat track for fore/aft movement you gain a further 0.5 inches. All of the above are incremental changes. The hood is put together for your roll bar type - so you do not go without.

JohnK - your earlier thread is here: http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7937&highlight=craftsman+jack I have the same (or very similar jack) and think it is brilliant for sevens. I like how the rubber pads protect the chassis jacking point. However, while it worked on a Caterham with regular floors it is too high for my current CSR with lowered floors if I want to jack from the side. You are left with a small chassis tube lip (1.5 inches) on the side of the tub with which to work with. Works well under the chassis at the nose. My adding a diffuser to my rear end makes jacking there rather interesting but even removing the diffuser I am unable to get under the diff with this jack unless I put the rear wheels up with jacking wheel dollies. Ideally with the CSR I would want a 2.5 inch entry height jack instead of a 3.5inch entry height jack with a rubber jacking pad for protection. Definitely no U shape jacking pad as most of the jacking I do is with a level surface being jacked with the exception of the diff. They are out there - Roman has identified one and I have seen others for sale from time to time. There is a thread on the CSR forum about jacking points in a CSR.

I have the track day roll bar which gives my head 2 inches of clearance with helmet. The lowered floors add 1.5 inches (roughly) and so without them my roll bar head clearance would be marginal. Even though I am lower I can still see the tops of the front wings which is my front extremity. A corvette nose slopes away so you are not sure where the front corners are. I think lowered floors will be a good addition - a Caterham with lowered floors and aeroscreen is still a very airy position on track and you will appreciate the lessened wind buffeting on road when touring. Best way to check head clearance is to try a Caterham on and ask an observer to check your head clearance. If you are concerned then spec the tall track roll bar. I know they say the integrated dash comes with lowered floors but Caterham UK factory told me they can special order without when I visited in November 2010 - hypothetical for me as I wanted the lower floors. Caterham USA were not aware of this until I discussed what the UK told me. If it helps I am back with my car on June 13 and can take an eye level photo looking forward to help you gauge? If they can do integrated dash with removable wheel then this is a change since the 2011 model CSRs - a very welcome change - as it is a challenge getting into a CSR with the fixed wheel.

First a point of clarification. By integrated dash I assume you mean the curvy/swoopy design as pictured half way down this linked page? http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=6281 Assuming that I understand you correctly then I have one of these in my CSR. It was not actually my choice as I jumped on a kit that had it spec'ed where the owner had to sell it before construction. The good - Easy to use, easy to see dials - Turn signals are wonderful after multiple sevens with the original dash - looks pretty :cooldude: The bad - Insanely hot bare metal chassis tubes running down the tunnel length - I get a burned right elbow. The regular dash covers up these tubes in pleather/vinyl capping. - steering wheel too low in my lap to be ideal - does not allow removable steering wheel - the curved opening for the legs limits my knee room for pedal work. I am a fairly chunky character so this may not be an issue for you. On balance, I would not do an integrated dash again. I would go standard dash, regular dials and removable wheel. I have zero regrets with the rest of the car and would spec it the same way again. Some other clarifications: - This integrated dash option is CSR only. It is not available on the S3 or S5 (SV) chassis - The integrated dash uses a Rover Metro steering column to get a indicator/wiper binnacle. For this reason it will not allow a removable wheel. - If you go standard dash then construct it with a delay module on the indicators where they cancel after some time period 20 seconds or so. There is a thread on Blatchat to this effect. - The lowered floors are an independent choice from the dash choice. I am 5'11 and think the lowered floors are brilliant. I have tried them in Caterhams of both dash designs and think they work well. If you are a midget then I would not suggest the lowered floor option but everyone over 6 feet should consider them as standard. If you are around the NYC/Philly area I would be happy to show you my car for you to make an informed decision after seeing it in person.

They can be very reliable or they can be very unreliable. The difference is in the level of attention and care to maintain. Every seven I have owned has required fettling to get it right and reliable. Two of mine were used when bought and the current one was new. All needed work. Once you methodically work through the car to get it up to scratch then you will find it just as reliable as an M3. However, remember you will be driving a thoroughbred and so it rewards a little more care and attention than a common garden variety shopping cart car. This always kicks off a mass debate. I think it really comes down to personal preference. Think of your priorities: - Pedigree and traditional looks - Caterham - Traditional looks, cheaper price with only a few sacrifices over a Caterham and US based support - Birkin - Dirty big throbbing V8, US based parts and support? - Brunton Stalker - Modern styling and S2000 engine with US based support - WCM Ultralite - Mix of traditional and modern styling - Westfield All of these options come standard with stunning performance and brilliant handling. All owners will tell you theirs in the best! I suggest you meet up with a few of the owners on here and check the cars out in person. Most owners would love to take you out for a drive to terrorize you. Not difficult at all. Lots of people have done it and there is a strong support group of CA owners to guide you. Sean will be along shortly to chime in on this. Well, I used to drive my Caterham to the track from NYC to south Jersey 100 miles. It gets really old pretty soon doing interstate highway runs dicing with feral truckers, Moms breast feeding junior while driving the family SUV with Dad asleep in the passenger seat, elderly couples in the old Mercury doing the Florida trip, harried business men in rent a hacks, etc. Some guys local still do it - but they are hardier than I. My money is on you wanting a trailer eventually. Well one guy on here bought an old Caterham race car at a very low price (think lower than low teens) and while it needs a new gearbox she will be a great track car. Everything was set up already on it. Birkins go for high teens to low 20s and with some work they could fit your budget. Have not seen a Ultralite get into that price band yet. Stalkers are close though - maybe ever so slightly higher. Best value is in a used car. Kit builds will always be more expensive - I am not aware of a kit build being able to match the budget you have - maybe a Stalker?

Amazon is another cheap source for Hylomar.

Knowing Michael he probably does want a good wench. :rofl: I find they are very useful around the house - second best thing to have in each of the kitchen and bedroom. :leaving: Back on track....great result Carman. Up against such elite competition that is a magnificent achievement!

That does not sound good Steve. A couple of options: 1) Do it yourself? MichaelD had a good diagram of a T9 plus you are quite handy mechanically and Bsimon on here knows all about T9s from my reading about past threads. Maybe ping him directly with a PM to ask some questions. 2) Give George Alderman a call at Midatlantic Caterham. He can be quick turnaround on gearboxes or so I saw with MichaelD when he had his troubles. However, he is rebuilding another member's car for NJMP June after it impacted a wall so he may have his hands full for a short notice job. 3) Taylor Race Engineering in TX http://www.taylor-race.com I am sure there are others but this is off the top of my head.

Thanks for the heads up Skip - did not notice that one. I have seen it before but it is so good I would be happy to see it again.

Yes - thats what happens when you dont have IRS!:ack:

Did you know that if you have a CSR with the extra diff struts then the doors do not fit in the boot even after folding in half? Also if you are long of leg then they do not fit behind the seats either? :nopity:

That was what I needed! A nice 15 minute distraction from the usual office detrius that litters my desk! :rofl: One day I will drive some great roads of Europe....one day.....

Sorry Subtlez28 I got lazy and did not take any. But look out for the June 22/23 NJMP post next month when there will be a lot of photos and eventually video of a bunch of middle aged to ancient farts goofing around on track in their sevens.

LOL - I wish. On one day last year, with some passengers, Jeff and I were tag teaming our cars around the track and we got to 1.30.9 (Jeff's laptimer measuring) which I remember well as it matched the SCCA Caterham lap record on that track. We only stopped when my passenger decided he was going to vomit as I got airborne on the back straight! Jeff and I were both running street tires. There is an R500 that did a 1.28 on R888 tires (he drives to the circuit). Tires make a huge difference - I could hold onto Tom on the bowl at Lightning on Friday but it was a challenge. I have 3.5 inches less rubber width on each of the fronts and another 1.5 inches less on each of the backs. 10 inches less rubber width around the entire car and he is on slicks compared to my street tires. The tire set up on Tom's car really does make it hang on a lot better through corners and clearly gives the driver enormous confidence.

For that matter, FL is a great state for registering a car - all manner of automotive disasters get registered there, including V8 golf carts, Zimmers, drivable BBQ grills, etc. FWIW Sabbot's Caterham on this forum is also an ex-CT car. But we should all remember that these forums are public and they have been read by at least one state DMV as I found out to my frustration and embarrassment once. Lesson learned from my side. Red Duck - Give me a call on my cell phone - was in an earlier PM to you.

Hi Roman - I understand your situation and you would be very much welcome to come as a spectator and enjoy the fun that seems to happen with a bunch of like minded car guys getting together to enjoy our cars the way they were designed. Just to be clear, there is no racing. None of us will set the world on fire with our speed. There is no timing or prizes for finishing. The real prize is bring the car home in one piece with no damage and having a great social day with a bunch of like minded guys. :seeya:

Its always sad to hear about health issues causing sale of a car by a car guy. My best wishes for getting back to full health and good luck with the sale.

This is the second or third time on this forum I have been called "an enabler"! :rofl: Glad you enjoyed the experience and learned a lot from it. Sorry they changed the rules so I could not take out your son in my car but bring him along with you to another member day with his own car to try the same program. We can arrange a loaner helmet so he does not have to buy one. Look at all the friendly father/son rivalry that could ensue when you outbrake and out handle him! :jester: So when are you coming back? There is Thunderbolt next weekend (big group likely) and Lightning in early June (need to check dates but a nice practice session for the June sevens event!) - all the same format as last Thursday.

While Boxologist has gone with the 90% accurate solution, I used the block number to google an answer on my old Zetec SVT specs and worked off that. That will tell you age and other manufacturing detail. To find it stand at the front of the car, on the right hand side, low down on the block near the bell housing (probably covered in crap), you should find a number beginning with "NGA" (if it is a ZX1 or ZX2). ZX3's and SVT's had a whole bunch of other letter prefixes. From memory, the metal cam cover only came on the ZX2 and the SVT - ZX1 and ZX3 were black plastic. Of course it could have been changed at some point..... The Engine code should get you everything you need to know though when you google it. There is a 2 number stamp at the top of the block but I am not sure what that signifies - never entered my need to know process. While other people found Contour hoses were a good replacement, I took the old ones into Napa and walked out with 90% of the replacements being 2000 Honda Civic hoses as part of a Samco kit when I replaced them on my 2004 SV Zetec SVT I would recommend taking the old in to at least try for a good match. Once you know what works then Rock Auto becomes a really good online source for the future.

The better question to ask is whether Mike is in New Jersey? The answer is I am trying to work out if I am back from London. Stevie still has his car and has decided not to sell. His last tire kicker was disappointed to find out that not all orange cars are Lamborghinis....

That looks like an open invite to take the piss! :rofl: Just wait!

Hi Roman - Where is Goldie going to call home in the North East? Another PA car?

Which Nota did you buy? The Fang, the Clubman (although I believe they call it something else now), or the F1? All are very much 'sevenesque' IMHO that you should not want your own section unless you really want keep yourself company? Sevens are sufficiently broad in character between the different types/brands that I think a Nota would fit within the spectrum of sevens. Photo post time Its been many years but I once went out to the Nota workshop in Dural (northwestern suburbs) in Sydney Australia. Fascinating place. How did a Nota end up in the US?

Why oh why would you need to save a few tenths of a second on a track day? While I have left foot braked during races I found the benefits marginal at best on do not bother any more. It just gives more wear and tear on the car for no advantage. You would be better off focusing on carrying higher speed through the corners and getting on the power earlier.

Heavy shoes! :toetap05::jester: