Croc

The 100E was either called the Ford Prefect or Ford Popular. Definitely not an Anglia.

Clearly this is from someone who has never driven a G Wagon. Harsh suspension. Somewhat ill defined steering. Brakes are not the greatest. A Defender is a luxury ride compared with the G Wagon. Its even worse if you get the AMG G Wagon version with the low profile tires. Sure the dealer network is expansive. There is great parts availability in third world countries - useful for upstate New York I suppose? But your son is going to need a spinal transplant before his 5th birthday. Personally I'd go for a older model Range Rover as it rides nicely, handles well, comfortable driving position, big and roomy and the expansive glasshouse makes it a nice place to be. Downside is that not all AC parts are available in all cases but you can go aftermarket, which is what I did. Use them daily and they are decently reliable. Parts supply is pretty good.

Defining the problem - 10 to 20 years and 200K miles plus. Ten years is easy. Modern cars are designed for a 10 year life and around 150K miles with normal maintenance (unless it is a modern Audi, Porsche or VW - they have bigger maintenance issues). My BMW SUV kitchen appliance has a 10 year life expectancy. Most manufacturers stop making parts for their vehicles to ensure they have inventory for roughly 12-14 years life span after production. Its after the 15 year mark, many parts become hard to find for nearly all modern cars. So lets make it serious and do this for 20 years plus and north of 200K miles. Its always the plastic and electronic componentry parts that wear out and become the hardest to find. Chassis, body and mechanical drive train can always be more readily repaired. The stuff you really need to worry about are dash innards, ECU, HVAC, emissions stuff, etc. These can kill a car in some states. An example, I have a 1991 Range Rover that I have slowly been bringing back from the dead. Its odometer failed. Trying to find a legal replacement was a global ordeal since you have to have a working odometer by NJ law. Only OEM anti-tamper odometers are acceptable. GPS odometers are not permitted. Non-working odometers are grounds to prevent a car being sold on - you can be sued in a civil case if you do and every attorney would take that case on for free as it is easy money to win. A working odometer is required for insurance - your policy can be invalidated if the insurer finds out and it is a standard check point for claim assessors. The unit for a 1991 car is unavailable other than by salvage from another car. They can be repaired despite cheap flimsy construction but there are only two businesses in the UK that have the knowledge to do this and both are owned by gents in their 60s. What happens when they retire in the next 10 years? After market ECUs are not permitted as by the 1990s we are into post-OBDII territory and therefore subject to emissions in many places - even for a car that old (mine is subject to regular emissions testing) and that never ages out. Designating a car as a classic for registration to bypass regulations actually legally prevents you from making it a decent annual mileage daily driver. What I set out to eventually be my classic daily driver car has turned out to be more a marginal proposition for long term than I originally thought. Yes some of you will say you should just ignore the law for little transgressions or move states but that will not always be possible and you have to consider that one day something will catch you. A simple auto accident can leave you hugely exposed legally. I want to sleep well at night and not always be looking over my shoulder for things trying to catch me. For this to work properly with reasonable degree of certainty, you have to go back older into the 1980s or prior to find cars with limited plastic component and limited electronic circuitry components such that you have confidence of being able to bodge a solution if it comes down to it. You have to pick cars where the manufacturers or enthusiast community have a high demand for parts such they are still being supported by the manufacturer or can be remanufactured. Listing those I have found to meet my stringent criteria: Porsche 911 - Pre-1988 models. Lots of manufacturer and enthusiast community parts support. Reliable with use. Quite practical for daily use. Pre-1983 Ferrari's - Ferrari is excellent as supporting their older cars to stay on the road. Yes the parts supply chain moves like a glacier but a regularly used Colombo V12 engine is remarkably reliable. So is the gearbox if you avoid using second gear. There is a guy out there with an early 1980s 400 with over 500,000 miles on it. Engine never been apart. Land Rover - @Vovchandr is right. Pre-88 Range Rovers and pre-1989 Defenders are prime candidates. Lots of parts available in the UK. Huge fan following globally. Limited electronics. No pesky ECU or emissions shit. Their propensity to rust is unfortunate but they can be rebuilt - replacement chassis and panels available. I am told that you can make a 1970s and early 80s Range Rover/110/Defender from scratch just using the parts catalog. Only downside is this limits you to the 3.5L V8 or diesels - pick the diesel as the better long term option. The 3.5L V8 is tough but the fuel economy is horrific. Volvo 240 - Lots of parts. Bullet proof. Huge cult following. Only area on the car thats a maintenance issue is replacing the HVAC blower motor as its a multiday job. Only problem is that 115hp gets you everywhere slooooooooowly...... Mercedes - 1960s/70s W114/115/116 Mercedes sedans or the 1980s 190E (it gave its ECU to the Caterham 7 up until last year). You see these all over the world in the middle of nowhere still plugging on reliably. Massively over engineered. Mercedes still strongly support with parts. I came across a W115 last year in remote outback Australia in an Aboriginal community that was 300 miles from a designated road - it must have driven overland offroad to get there at some point in its life. You see them in remote communities in Africa and they still plug away. A late 1960s/early 70s pagoda roofed SL is also a candidate - I have a UK friend who has been daily driving his for the last 30 years - north of 600,000 miles on it. 1960s and 70s Chevy, Ford, Mini mass market classics. Did you know you can manufacture your own 1967 Camaro from parts out of a catalog? Same for a early Ford Bronco or Mustang. You can also do the same with the original Mini in the UK. Toyota - I agree with @panamericano There is huge support for early Landcruisers and Hilux pick ups.

Both the Ferrari and Lamborghini communities extensively use Koni's. I have used Jeff LeBlond at FJB Limited (FJB Shocks) and recommend him. He even rebuilt the gas struts on the Espada rear hatch. http://www.fjbshocks.com/ 22045 N. 88th Ave Peoria, AZ 85383 (626) 566-1628

Is this the guy in the Phoenix area?

Why not? Add some cases of Grey Poupon to the “boot” (or trunk if you are colonial) for winter traction. Maybe a cheesecloth cap to hide the bald spot and lord it over all the peasants or Vlads at the traffic lights next to you. Top up the Amex card for the 12mpg that can be expected. Then luxuriate in the acres of cow that the very British craftsmen specially peeled for you. I’m not helping am I?

In 2001, the CaterhamUSA.com was connected with the old Rocky Mountain Sports Cars (RMSC), which had the sole Caterham importer rights to the USA at the time - its now defunct. Don't confuse that with the the current Rocky Mountain Caterham - they are not related legally or by people. Is this a SVT Zetec or the regular cooking model Zetec?

Every so often a post on USA7s stops me dead in my tracks. Genuinely confused here. What has you thinking this is a good choice for longevity over any other car? You are thinking outside of the box in a way my little mind cannot comprehend right now other than manual transmission is a good thing. Parts supply will be same if not worse as any other Mazda. Its chock full of plastic componetry, 50K mile mandatory replacement parts, emissions gadgetry, etc. Its genuinely a sophisticated little commuter car - quite a good one. Wouldn't this preclude it from @Vovchandr 's group of contestants?

The purge tank is Delphi GM 17089060 from a 1989 Olds Calais or Buick Skylark. AC Delco cross match number is 215-69. Was also used on Rover 414 / 416 / 420 The purge solenoid valve is 69844 This was used a little more widely including a Rover 25 from 1999 to 2001

Or use blue painters tape by 3M to make up some numbers.

No kill switch sticker is required. Fire suppression system is not mandatory. Its nice but not essential. Carry one of those fire sticks or an extinguisher that buys you some time to get out or stop things getting worse. There are extinguishers in each flag station so if in need stop next to it and be prepared to grab it and use yourself. The dirty little secret on fire suppression systems is they are usually not great. They buy time and should not be relied upon to comprehensively extinguish every fire. No race suit needed. Gloves are nice but not essential. Long pants, long sleeved shirt and closed toe shoes are the requirements. Clearly choose a fabric that does not immolate you the moment it is exposed to a naked flame...

Which gearbox are you running in it? Original Moss 4 speed?

Congratulations on your new acquisition and welcome to USAS7. Sadly it is a little cold right now to have a good play with it but Spring will be here shortly. There are a number of other Rover-engined car owners on USA7s so don't think you are alone if you are confronting engine questions and need technical input. I think MV8 is right. If original then I expect it is a Ford Sierra diff housing with Quaife internals for a 1999 car. I assume you did the usual test to confirm LSD - on a lift, rotate one wheel, etc.? I would not top off the diff oil. I would drain/suck out what is there and give it all new fresh oil. I have never been a fan of mixing old unknown oil with new stuff. For spec, I would look up one of the Rover assembly manuals of a year near to your build year in the library on this site and see what they recommend for diff oil spec - you can get a match to a quality brand available in the USA.

You are buying the car of your dreams. Make the effort to try on in person and ideally drive. It may be worth waiting to get to Colorado with a visit to Josh do this properly. For all the emotion sprouting in the above posts on S3 vs SV, for most drivers, the SV will usually be the faster car in a track environment, despite the weight disadvantage, as the wider track gives a handling advantage of confidence to most drivers. I participated in the UK test of S3 vs SV vs CSR at Donington and it was eye opening for me. The SV wide track also softens some of the rear end liveliness that comes from mid-corner bumps. If you are in the top 5% of drivers then maybe the S3 is for you as you will be able to hustle it quicker in a track environment. if you are touring longer distances then the SV is better. If you are looking to slalom some back roads for an hour then the S3. A lot of the decision comes from thinking about your end use objective. But if you are looking for spousal approval then good luck. 99% of spouses decide it is not their thing. They would prefer something with a roof, climate control, and less wind blown hair. Maybe a Miata or Maserati or Corvette if you want her happy? Personally, I would ignore her and go for my dream car and keep her happy other ways - a new kitchen, holiday, shoes, or maybe a Dyson vacuum cleaner (like one USA7s forum member did this past Christmas )? The seven is a bespoke car. It’s like the tailored suit, custom made for you. Buy it for yourself. Debate it all you want here but it will not resolve the fundamental concern. You MUST try it on for size. FWIW, with your vital stats I bet you could manage an S3 pedal box with race boots on.

When I first was told that weight by Jon at RMC, I was surprised. It comes down to what they think works with that level of tune (runs rich), the way the dry sump operates, and prevailing oil temps the engine expects to run, which are fearsomely high on track with a CSR260. My logic would have led me to a different spec but I will trust Cosworth in this instance. It must work as there are a lot of long lived CSRs still running their original engines, including me. However, I am extremely paranoid about correct oil levels.

No its no anecdotal. Tracking the ads for 10 years does demonstrate a slow down in numbers of sales over the winter period - there is a seasonal effect. However as Scotticus notes, you still see the committed player ready to spend because they have a specific spec car they want and when it comes up on Bringatrailer or elsewhere they open the wallet for instant gratification. It all comes down to finding the right buyer for the car you want to sell.

Yes that confirms it - Rob was Solder_guy on USA7s. The seats came out of a yellow 2003 Caterham SV Zetec SVT that I used to own. I always felt tan seats did not work with a yellow car.

Cosworth recommend that weight for my Duratec.

@Donnie Was that Solder_guy's Rotus? If so then those seats came out of an old Caterham of mine. The cut in the leather was my clue - UPS did it when I shipped them to him.

Week Beginning December 23, 2024 Last chance to buy yourself a present for Christmas! USA7s Classified Ads of Cars for Sale USA7s classified pages - USA7s club members have the benefit of selling their cars by listing them for free on USA7s forum. https://usa7s.net/ips/forum/26-cars-for-sale/ New Ads for Sale This Week Lotus 7 S2 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-lotus-seven-9/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=campaign_2648441 Project Something https://www.facebook.com/share/1BnPdVzZbK/ Caterham https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/caterham/super-7/2767387.html Locost https://www.facebook.com/share/15YXwPmoCJ/ Superformance S1 https://www.facebook.com/share/15NMyjx1q5/ Repeat Ads From Prior Weeks Caterham https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1999-caterham-super-7-flat-rock-mi-2831270 Caterham Kit https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/2024-caterham-chaffee-ny-2829914 and here https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/d/el-verano-lotus-caterham-super/7809914786.html Caterham https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1999-caterham-super-7-va-beach-va-2829129 Replica https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1971-lotus-villa-park-il-2834634 Replica https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1967-lotus-commerce-twp-mi-2821494 and here https://www.ebay.com/itm/146271210616?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JM7ao4EGQdm&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=Rug4ktEYR-G&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Sabre Seven https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1985-lotus-7-franklin-me-2818827 Caterham https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/ctd/d/san-jose-2023-caterham-seven-620r-lotus/7811275957.html and here https://www.facebook.com/share/19WYQQoMN9/ Replica https://www.facebook.com/share/15iaKh2dB7/ RM 8 Kit https://www.facebook.com/share/18pjS1taCz/ Locost https://www.facebook.com/share/1AjumVfGVf/ Lotus 7 S4 https://www.facebook.com/share/1FCvKMNQgZ/ Birkin https://www.facebook.com/share/18JfVv5o3k/ Locost Project https://www.facebook.com/share/15a3ESJpjt/ Lotus 7 S4 https://www.facebook.com/share/15neZRJr4b/ Replica https://www.facebook.com/share/15jTdu1zxu/ Birkin https://www.facebook.com/share/15k8VngTEt/ Replica (Robin Hood?) https://www.facebook.com/share/1DrV6Ri1jh/ Replica Project https://www.facebook.com/share/1CneoqYBL1/ WCM Ultralite https://www.facebook.com/share/1NrrfPK4CP/ Replica https://www.facebook.com/share/1B5DxzFYn5/ Replica https://www.facebook.com/share/15oMu1zjWr/ Locost AutoX/Race car https://www.facebook.com/share/15jCusQugf/ Mitsuoka Zero https://www.facebook.com/share/19invE1icT/ Locost Project https://www.facebook.com/share/18qqpk1wWA/ Replica https://www.facebook.com/share/15iV44itBg/ Replica https://www.facebook.com/share/15ioZG8e26/ Caterham https://www.facebook.com/share/1XfJWC6Y2a/ Westfield https://www.facebook.com/share/18ZDZpvTdC/ Locost Project https://www.facebook.com/share/1EkLESozB5/ Lotus 7 S2 https://www.facebook.com/share/12BLVf91r81/ and here https://www.facebook.com/share/18uk9unBx2/ Lotus 7 S2 https://www.facebook.com/share/1E2t1vwynv/ Caterham https://www.facebook.com/share/1AvzZwght5/ Canada MNR 7 https://www.autotrader.ca/a/lotus/esprit/hamilton/ontario/5_63845091_20220608161858701/ and here https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/hamilton/2021-lotus-esprit-7-kit-car-miata-drivetrain/m9854382 and here https://www.facebook.com/share/1BGfSq4cpW/ Fejer https://www.autotrader.ca/a/lotus/seven/lower five islands/nova scotia/19_12900501_/ and here https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/truro/1985-fejer-lotus-super-seven/1701350048 and here https://www.facebook.com/share/18dnb7KSES/ Dutton https://www.facebook.com/share/18dU2uq1oY/ Locost https://www.facebook.com/share/1FoxQQdujZ/ Locost Project https://www.facebook.com/share/15ThZ4mRyq/ RM 8 Project https://www.facebook.com/share/18T4UgvwoR/ Westfield https://www.facebook.com/share/1DVA8Q31GR/ Westfield https://www.facebook.com/share/1Fhg91jcqL/ Westfield https://www.facebook.com/share/1DzWjronD3/ Locost https://www.facebook.com/share/14dwo4Tq4z/ Caterham https://www.facebook.com/share/15eygfv5do/ Caterham https://7cars.ca/cars-for-sale/caterham-s3-360.htm This thread will take a break from updates over the Christmas/New Year period and be back end of the first full week in January 2025. Wishing all USA7s members, forum followers and their families the very best of Season's Greetings!

Wow - you just could not do that today. US military are just not paid well enough, Italy costs a fortune in most major cities, and we won't go into Maserati prices for a 3500GT (one of favorite Maseratis).

Set suspension to SOFT. Its a very bumpy circuit around that infield and the join to the tri-oval. Almost as bad as Sebring.

Most tracks have their form of "country club" track day club thing. They all have their program of upfront cost, annual membership, and then daily track day fees. WE run the annual sevens event there as it gives us a good track time quality without other big heavier cars in the mix to spoil the fun in the corners. We discovered this very early on in the running of this event. However, there are a lot of track day operators who you can purchase a day on track with. Motorsportreg.com is the site you should look at to find who is operating on what tracks and on what dates. Not all operators will take you as they specify conditions (car types, conditions, etc). But there are enough around that there are plenty of options to choose from.

Probably be another month or so before I get notice of the motorsportreg registration being open. Figure on February.

Lotus 7 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-lotus-seven-9/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=campaign_2648441