Croc

I think that was an ABS ring in its former production car life but ABS rings (or reluctor rings) are needed on each wheel for ABS to work properly as they provide the sensor input to whether individual wheels are locking up or not so that the ABS system can modulate. They also work the same way in reverse for traction control. At least thats how the Bosch ABS system works which is in common usage and is available for aftermarket fitment. Given it is only on one wheel, that makes me think it was repurposed for the Ultralite to be a speed sensor ring. How does the speedo in the Ultralite get its speed pulses to measure speed on the gauge? Did it originally have a Hall effect sensor mounted next to it same as Caterham do it? Either way, if you are not using it then as MV8 notes above it should not cause any concerns provided the hub measurements are equal both sides.

Congratulations on your (new to you) Caterham purchase. Glad you could achieve a car wish list milestone.

You are right to be cautious. Vlad's idea above is spot on. I prefer to drive the buyer and show them what the car can do and explain its for their safety. This has to be your approach in a car like this. Only for buyers with money down and accepted have I let them drive my cars I sell. Even then I control it by doing it in an area where things can be kept under control (autocrossing area, back of pits at NJMP, runway, etc) and there is major run off area if things get out of control.

@SK400 Seb - I went digging and found the Sadev installation manual for a Miata. Given your hairdressing prowess, is this any help with the section on wiring? SRF-SADEV-MANUAL.docx

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I have a non-standard ECU solution which will not help you in this instance. Copying @yellowss7 and @Bartman I think Bartman has a sadev in his car he is developing. Have you inquired of the UK dealer you bought from? You only need a generic wiring solution to figure how to make it work on a Caterham. I have ECU pin outs somewhere in my hard disk I need to find.

By description on that page, its the 2014 year R300 kit. Too early for the Sadev so I guess it is the old Quaife sequential box that was used in racing at that point?

Been a while since we had a Stalker at NJMP. Looking forward to meeting in person. Whats the history and spec on your Stalker? Did you build it yourself or buy at some point? Hydrate!!!! Skip the worst days as you just knock your body around too much. Your driving season extends late into the year the further south you go so kick your days back later in the year when the weather is more reasonable. NJMP has showers in the pits - take a cold one to bring you back to life.

Unlikely based on past form. Lets see two weekends from now. I am trying to see if I can push Bruce to do an engine start at his Christmas Party.

For salt water immersed cars, when you dry them out the water evaporates and the salt is left behind. There will always be salt residue wherever the water got to. Unfortunately you have to wipe/wash/flush the salt out with fresh water so that when the water evaporates there is no salt left. I have never heard of any other solution

In true form you always turn up out of the blue looking immaculate with a helmet of freshly blow dried salt and pepper hair. Still matching your clothing colors in an assemble of red? NJMP continues to use your glamour photos in its marketing materials. They want you back in person in 2025 to update the beauty catalog. Will we see you? I think you need to tell us your ratio choices for each gear plus the final drive. Did you model it with a spreadsheet to ensure suitable rev drops with top speed optimisation?

The conclusion we all had later was we should have stamped the wiper arm out then shaped the divot manually. It would have been cheaper and quicker. I did not pay any extra as it was an experiment for the folks to make a part that was three times longer than what they had previously done - opportunity to stretch the envelope. The team that did this, manage hundreds of classic cars in a collection. So you can imagine their need as they are missing parts all the time and spend huge hours searching to find a used original part.

I was not there for the process so am relaying what I heard later from the mechanic who was there. It was either scanning or relying on another owner's previous scan. In most of my cases I was using the CAD file of a certain well known California owner of an Espada who had done this the year before me. For the new part it was scanning the part to get a 3D CAD file then then print. Using the wiper mechanism as the example since we had to print both plastic and metal - the plastic gears and buffers took less than a day then a little smoothing of the edges. The two metal arms were longer as this was a first time for them. Arms were essentially a long flat pieces of 2 feet each with rounded ends that originally had been stamped out with a divot along the full length to provide strength. Sorry don't have a photo handy to help you visualize. They were printed in 12 inch lengths and joined later. They were done in two weeks from providing the file and getting the completed part back but the actual print time was far less. I understand there was a lot of pick up and put down as they managed their orders. The three inch diameter metal gear wheel took a week.

Article here https://carbuzz.com/reveal-camal-studio-scoperta-caterham-458-barchetta/?utm_source=flipboard&utm_content=topic/automotive

To be fair the metal parts are fairly simple so far - wiper mechanism arms and brackets for very minor engine ancillaries, etc. As you note there is a limit on shape of part - a coolant junction was tried and failed as an experiment (it was cool to watch though!) I have had 3D printing in various types of plastics for a lot longer - more parts of the wiper mechanism/gears, interior switchgear, trim parts for engine bay and interior, etc. Parts have been fine for durability - never had anything fail. They turn out quite authentic looking. Up to now, engine bits are always 3D milled as opposed to 3D printed - never heard of anyone seriously using 3D printing for pistons, cranks, rods, valves, etc. However, I suspect there are a lot of people trying.

Did you get to take it for a drive? Impressions of quality? How big is the GT over the standard chassis? Interested in hearing more. What drive train are you thinking of for your car on order you are planning to build?

Ideally as we are a small community we would know this car. The last couple of times flooded cars have come up for salvage auction we usually can find out the back story through our little network at USA7s. Has not happened so far. Its not a car I have seen in a photo on this site before. So then....Pull a Carfax on the car and see where it was located. If you have nice friends in law enforcement or the insurance industry then they have access to other databases which help you identify/locate the car. But you really don't need to do that here - a little common sense helps - its a Florida car, there was a hurricane recently with a good sized storm ocean surge in a defined area, its flat topography in FL, so odds on its going to be sea water or brackish water of some kind and not fresh water. Insurers do not write cars off for rain unless it is of the frozen type - not happening here. Betting odds says it was flooded with salt water to earn the write off. If you could confirm it was likely fresh water then I would want to fly in to see this in person to inspect. Some cars are cleaned up prior to making it to Copart - some owners are deluding themselves their precious-to-them car can be saved after immersion and try to recover it themselves. So the fact this looks good is a flag to consider - salt water immersion does leave salt marks as evidence even after cleaning. Expect to have a bunch of corroded electrical connections and have to replace pieces of it. Pump waxoyl through the chassis tube insides to flush out residual water - messy job but the chassis is definitely salvageable if you get to it early enough. Assume engine/gearbox/diff needs a rebuild as water contaminated the oil/lubricant. As with any project like this, if it is cheap enough then the project cost to bring it back is viable. But your title here is always going to be salvage - valuation impaired for ever more. So I would be playing this as a sum of the parts game and bidding accordingly (if it were me).

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NOOOOOOO! The lesbian inseminator/turkey baster was used for oil removal. Don't use it in the brake system as you could inadvertantly cross-contaminate the brake system.

Sure. I want to hear what people have for CAD files first. We are limited on files types.