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Are the rear dampers through-the-tube or under-slung length?

Honda CR125 shifter cart engine? Won't quite sound like a 4-banger, but it'll go like snot.

:iagree: That being said, Does anyone else wonder how they filter the flies and hair out of the Chocolate Wonderfall at Golden Corral?

Already done. USA7s > Off Topic > Politics, Religion and Controversy > Back to topic... Then: "The fact that we are here today to debate raising America's debt limit is a sign of leadership failure. It is a sign that the US Government can not pay its own bills. It is a sign that we now depend on ongoing financial assistance from foreign countries to finance our Government's reckless fiscal policies. Increasing America's debt weakens us domestically and internationally. Leadership means that "the buck stops here." Instead, Washington is shifting the burden of bad choices today onto the backs of our children and grandchildren. America has a debt problem and a failure of leadership. Americans deserve better." Now: Welcome to Zimbabwe...

In the words of Monica's ex-boyfriend's wife "What Difference, At This Point, Does It Make?"

Paul, There are no circuit breakers in a Caterham, only fuses. Somebody has rewired your car for some reason or another. There are two or three square modules plugged into the fuse block depending on the vintage of your car. These are relays and flashers.

Clutch is not fully disengaged. The input and layshaft are turning from clutch drag when the car is standing still and the 'box is in neutral. You need to adjust the linkage/cable/slave cylinder arrangement to stop the input shaft from turning. Till then, try pulling the 'box into direct to stall the layshaft then quickly switch to first gear. (an old trucker's bodge for a clapped out clutch/layshaft brake) The good news is your clutch is probably OK. It just needs linkage adjustment.

That is correct. The beveled tooth lead-in chamfers should be facing each other so they feed together smoothly when engaging. Is the noise experienced when in reverse, direct, or both?

I turn my left foot sideways with my heel locked against the heel of my right foot. I raise my left knee slightly and rest against the gearbox tunnel. There's enough room in an S3 to handle my size 11-1/2 in this fashion. My foot is not behind the clutch pedal, just slightly under, it ready to make a sudden move if needed. I've never tried this in a LHD car. The instrument panel gusset plate may not let you do this without wracking your knee.

The original Caterham mirror is glued in place with double-faced tape. It can be removed with chlorinated brake cleaner. If the mirror has been attached with cyanoacrylate adhesive (super glue), it gets more difficult. Here are a couple of threads I found on other forums. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/621659-how-do-i-remove-rear-view-mirror-button-off-glass.html http://www.joelfeder.com/2010/09/13/from-experience-how-not-to-install-a-rear-view-mirror/

:(Very true. I discovered this the hard way.

Pre 96 cars the flasher unit is lower left corner of the fuse block, hazard relay is up and to the right of flasher. Post 96 the relay and flasher units are the last two items protruding from the left side of the fuse block. The flasher is the bottom item, hazard relay is second from the bottom. Sigma cars are another story. Having not seen one in the flesh, I have no clue where the relays are. Have you checked for a short in one of the indicator or taillamp housings? A loose wire or something might be crowbarring the supply and compromising the fuse. Don't forget to check the repeaters on the front wings for shorts as well.

A couple of things to troubleshoot: 10amp fuse second row, 3rd from the left, pre-1996 fuse #12 post 1996 Also check the hazard relay and flasher module. Keep in mind the hazard switch is hot with the ignition off, the indicators are not. (thus the relay) Don't let any smoke escape when poking around.

If you are not careful, the switch is a virtual booby trap of little springs that will disappear into low earth orbit, never to be seen again. You may want to open it in a clear plastic bag. The contacts are low quality brass that corrodes at the first sign of moisture. I plated the contacts with a silver electroplating pen kit I scored on fleabay.

Alaskossie can fill in the details as he experienced this phenomenon on his trip from CO to AK with a brand new car. There were a few years that the Caterham hub assembly bearing recesses were machined too deep. This preloaded the bearing excessively. The cure is getting replacement hubs from CC.

Seems motorcycles, street rods, trailers and "special machinery" are exempt. I wonder how many cops figure a Se7en is just another street rod? Might be a potential bullshit defense when you get stopped. Here's the CO Law: 42-3-201. Number plates furnished - style -periodic reissuance - tabs - rules. (1) (a) (I) The department shall issue to every owner whose vehicle is registered two number plates; except that the department shall issue one number plate for the following: (A) A motorcycle; (B) A street rod vehicle; © A trailer or semitrailer; (D) A vehicle drawn by a motor vehicle; or (E) An item of special mobile machinery. (II) At the discretion of the executive direc-tor of the department, the department may issue one number plate for any vehicle not listed in subparagraph (I) of this paragraph (a). 42-3-202. Number plates to be attached. (1) (a) Number plates assigned to a self-propelledvehicle other than a motorcycle or street rod vehicle shall be attached thereto, one in the front and the other in the rear. The number plate assigned to a motorcycle, street rod vehicle, trail-er, semitrailer, other vehicle drawn by a motor vehicle, or special mobile machinery shall be attached to the rear thereof. Number plates shall be so displayed during the current registration year, except as otherwise provided in this article. (b) If the department issues a validating tab or sticker to a motor vehicle pursuant to section 42-3-201, the current month validating tab or sticker shall be displayed in the bottom left cor-ner of the rear license plate. The current year validating tab or sticker shall be displayed in the bottom right corner of the rear license plate. The tabs or stickers shall be visible at all times. (2) (a) Every number plate shall at all times be securely fastened to the vehicle to which it is assigned, so as to prevent the plate from swing-ing, and shall be horizontal at a height not less than twelve inches from the ground, measuring from the bottom of such plate, in a place and position to be clearly visible, and shall be main-tained free from foreign materials and in a condi-tion to be clearly legible. (b) A person shall not operate a motor vehi-cle with an affixed device or a substance that causes all or a portion of a license plate to be unreadable by a system used to automatically identify a motor vehicle. Such a device includes, without limitation, a cover that distorts angular visibility; alters the color of the plate; or is smoked, tinted, scratched, or dirty so as to impair the legibility of the license plate.

What will set the BIB is obvious speeding through a laser speed trap. Laser guns can't lock onto a Se7en unless there's a front plate to act as a retro-reflector. they can't seem to get a good bounce off the windscreen or headlamps. I've always been able to talk my way out of the citation by showing them the front plate stashed next to the seat and giving them some lame excuse about attaching it when I get home. Your mileage may vary...

Better to sort this out in Sunny CA than in the middle of the Great White CA.

Jenvey kits usually come with the notorious Colvern TPS. Complete crap. Been through 2 Colvern pots since I installed FI. I switched to a TPS off of a BMW 328. It required machining up an acetal spacer and shaft adaptor of stainless steel. You'll need a 3 pin AMP junior timer connector to complete the swap. The 328 TPS can be had in most Pep boys stores, although they are cheaper from Rock Auto. I don't have access to the PN at the moment, but I can post it here Monday. http://usa7s.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=5182&stc=1&d=1373769922

That doesn't look like a Rotrex in Steve's photo. Looks more like a roots blower standing on edge. Who makes that?

Could be a dodgy injector. I've seen this with pico types. They go lean at high frequency before failing completely. I've been told they can be spotted by checking the static resistance of the coil. Probably worth a quick check with a multimeter.

laminated organic composite construction. Nice job!:cheers:

Several links here

Ford Type 9 lever is 3/8-16. Caterham 6 speed 'box has a Quaife type 9 lever with a M10X1.5 thread. Aftermarket Quaife Type 9 levers may have either M10X1.5 or M12X1.75.

Driving a RHD car on NA roads isn't as much of a problem as you might think. Popping from the shoulder into the oncoming lane to overtake does test the passenger's composure at times... Most folks do instantly recognize your car as British, however a few cheeky individuals will question your ability to reach the postboxes on your rural route. I find toll booths and takeaway windows to be the biggest issue.