xcarguy

LOL!!!!! Mike, I envision a man who looks as though he was just rolled in a barrel of flower. I suppose we can respectively change our forum names to 'slick' and 'powder'. :smilielol5:

On fleabay; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replica-Kit-Makes-brunton-super-stalker-RACE-super-stalker-lotus-7-autocross-supercar-lotus-7-/151338705845?forcerrptr=true&hash=item233c7d63b5&item=151338705845&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Actually watched you and the Stang last night (number two viewer, I must be a fan). Awesome sound, awesome car, I want a ride. I promise not to drool (too much) on the seats. :drool: And you're gonna have to tell those Bowtie boys :cuss: that giving a point by to a Ford isn't the end of the world. :cheers:

Getting antsy; ready to see it on the road. :cheers:

Man, I guess I see this from a pilot's perspective; my track day check list is seven pages long. :rofl: Last night, the Storker got a 'much needed' bath by default (was going to wash it anyway before the event, but not what I had planned). I have a foam cover over the 'pressure relief valve' side of the Accusump . . . in case it ever decides to burp oil; think of it as an adult diaper for those embarrassing, just-in-case moments in life. It was around ten p.m. and I had just finished tweaking the precharge on the Accusump when I decided to remove the foam cover for inspection. Once the foam cover was removed, I accidentally tugged (just ever so slightly, mind you) on the pressure relief valve. :ack: When I did, I gave the Storker, and everything else within a twenty-foot radius, a 60 psi burst of warm Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic; it was a generous coating to say the least. Afterward, it was hell, high water and all hands on deck; break out the soap and the Clean-Rite Purple Power. :willy_nilly: A bit over two hours later, I turn out the last light and locked up the shop. There are some positives to this: a) the Storker is the cleanest it's been since birth; b) the Accusump precharge works very well; c) the Accusump pressure relief valve also works very well; d) warm oil is good for dry skin. . . . . . :banghead:

. . . . . . :nopity:

Tom, and others, Still forging ahead to be there. Was hoping to be registered by the weekend, but still awaiting a confirmed head count. I should be registered by Monday afternoon/evening at the latest. Right now, my father will be attending with me. I sure hope someone can give him a right seat thrill ride; he's never done/been to anything like this before. Shane . . . . . :flag: :cheers:

Might try here: http://www.focusfanatics.com/

Paul, Unless it's the norm for the crossflow coolant system, a 7 psi cap seems like a very low pressure cap. I use a 21-25 psi cap for my Stalker's coolant system and can run in the 230F range when on track (pushing the car hard) with no coolant issues. To help put this in perspective, I was running an 18 psi cap prior to the 21-25 psi cap and my car would consistently run hot (puke coolant) above 210F. 210F is a normal coolant temp for an aluminum LS engine, however, my engine will consistently run 180F on the highway under normal driving conditions. While I'm comparing apples to oranges concerning cars and power plants, physics be physics when it comes to temp and pressure. You might want to rethink the 7 psi cap. My two cents. Another consideration; if you have recently changed the coolant (assuming you did because of the valve job) did you get all the air pockets out of the system? If not, this will only compound the high temp/overflow issue. Also, might be some useful info in this thread: http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?t=9719 . . . . . :cheers:

Grouchy? . . . Nonsense! You were just being yourself. :smilielol5: Besides, I'm the one that started all this by asking for directions when they were right in front of me the whole time, which solidifies the belief that men should NEVER ask for directions. :smilielol5: Now, about those pain killers . . . . you were saying . . . . ? . . . . . . :cheers:

twobone, The first thing that comes to mind is air pockets in the system. Also, did you go back with the same mixture (all water, 50/50, etc.) or did you change it a bit?

Ah, yes . . . The old 'helpful information memo''. That explains a lot.

Okay, somewhere on here was a post about the best exit to take in Millville (staying at the Fairfield) so as to avoid a sharp RH turn w/ trailer . . . or something to that affect . . . can't find it. :rofl: Can someone please throw that back on the table? Thanks. :cheers:

John, Again, welcome. I have a true admiration for builders who travel to the beat of their own drum. I did a home-built 26 track-T a few years ago and it took me about two years form the first weld to the last bolt. And thanks for answering the question about the grill; I do hope Speedy Bill got to see this before he moved on. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

John, Welcome to the forum. And I think you should seriously commit to doing the trip in your car. Ditto on more info about your ride. Being an x street rodder, I'm really curious about that grill. :cheers:

Chris, Not a Caterham owner, but I do have some hands-on experience from designing/building my own steering assemblies and have a couple of suggestions from studying your photo. First, can you move the clamp forward (down the column toward the front of the car and re-tighten)? If so, this may give you the wiggle room needed to free the shaft from the lower U-joint. If this is not a possibility, then a) paint-mark the the shaft/U-joint similar the the items in this photo (http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=20057), b) remove/loosen the clamp, and c) separate the splined column from the U-joint and reinsert one spline over from the original position in the direction desired for steering wheel alignment. Then, re-tighten the clamp and check your steering wheel alignment. This process may take some time (several trial and error attempts) to find center, but should work. Regardless of technique, paint-mark the column/U-joint as this will be your point of origin until you find a spline alignment that best centers the steering wheel. Hope this helps. :cheers:

Steve, The stripper pole would have pushed me over the top on budget, and adding it would have only invited more trashy trailer talk. Enough rumors already abound. :jester: Daughter is progressing along nicely. I'm still pushing ahead for NJMP. Just waiting on a release from the picc line. Oh well, back to waxing; if it works for slicks, it has to be good for the trailer tires. :smilielol5:

Eating crow while I type. Will someone please pass the salt? :willy_nilly: My Folks came in this weekend to play with the grand kids. My Dad, who owned his own small trucking company for 40 plus years (two trucks, two drivers--he was one of them . . . said it was small) said to cross the rears and not the fronts . . . . and to use the wheels as anchor points. I went with his suggestion/advise. We loaded the car in the trailer (yes, fellas, everything was tied down) and took it out for a thirty-mile tow with no issues. Here are a few photos. Croc, please notice the wheels . . . and please, no trashy trailer talk. :toetap05: . . . . . . :cheers:

You're killing me. . On a serious note, good photos later today of proper car/tire tie down.

Mike (Kitcat), Agree in all points. Crisscross tie down; end of story . . . Period. I use the rear wheels and the area where the lower spindle/lower A-arm connect). I check the load early out if the gate and at every stop afterward.

Guys. This is just fitment photo only (pre maiden tow). Car is still connected to the winch. The towel is so I didn't bang the wing when I disconnected the winch. Car is not tied down. Tires are not tied down. Anybody know how to do a frownie face with an iPhone. :/

Good heavens!!!!! :svengo:

Took the trailer and car out for a maiden tow with no issues. Tows very well behind the Tundra. Here are few photos with the Stalker loaded as well as a link to a few more photos in the Stalker Gallery. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25611 . . . . . :cheers:

All looks very well done, coffee. And A+ on the new covers for the bat posts. :cheers:

. . . . . . :lurk::lurk::lurk: