m wirth

and continuing..... Just wondering, in the Ultralite community, if anyone has track day driven both the f20c and the f22c with compareable gearing, I have 3:90 LSD, and which one would be considered better for 4 to 5 track days a year for driveability. I have 4 good track days under my belt now at Oregon Raceway Park, amazing track, and my f20c kind of spooks me comming out of tight corners using 2nd and trying to keep it running between 6k and 8k, so I just motor along using 3rd and then 4th on the straight. I'm usually as fast or faster than the drivers in the intermediate class. With the torque lower in the rpm band,of the f22c, will the power come on smoother than warp 9 of the f20c when engaging the v-tech? I have a good lead on a complete f22c, or should I just buck up and learn to drive like the big boys? I never plan on racing, just track days. thanks mike

Jerry, if you come up again give me a call. Here is a link of some pics of right where you took the picture at White River Canyon and another pic of the road in 2006, I do a lot of skiing in that area. http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/HWY/REGION1/news/photos.shtml/ mike

I took a nice little drive on back roads up to Mt. Hood, and after over 2,000 miles the joints are a little noisey but still tight for track days, only encountered 2 cars in 50 miles of driving on a beautiful day.

Just a help for posting pics, I'm pretty much not tech savvy so I just use the paint program in accessories and under image, select stretch and skew reduce the size to 30%, import back to your pictures as #2 copy then pull that copy out when you want to post or send and email. mike

Thanks Loren, I took the ecm out and checked the wire, it was in the proper hole but it was not pushed all the way in, the connector was distorted so it was wider than the slot and not making contact with the pin, or so I think. Only got to drive it for about half an hour but when I asked for vtec it obliged. We will see on a longer hotter drive. thank you kind sir mike

Thanks for the replies all, I will try the remedies mentioned, when I get more than one day in a row without rain. Yes it has been to 9000, ye ha, on a narrow tree lined road it's like warp drive with eye ball over load. I'm sure it has the OBD port so I will get a scanner, is it proper to leave power to the ecu always on.? that is the way mine is. Mondo is correct the way mine goes, revs all the way, I only go to 8200, several times and then after an hour or so I try to go up again and it cuts at 7000 but my idle stays constant. thanks again, you guys are great I will keep you informed, and yes trials is still my main vice, licking some non trials wounds and getting in shape to show the kids how it's done. mike

I am new to ecu’s and computers so maybe someone has some helpful ideas. My F20c engine runs absolutely perfect up to about an hour of moderately fast back road driving, no vtec to scary on narrow twisties, but when there is a nice straight it comes up to 7000 rpm and goes flat, 180 temp, I have never run it up to the limiter when the vtec is working properly so I can’t compare. When the motor is just up to temp the vtec works properly. After it has cooled plugs are a perfect color the electrodes are square and there are no apparent cracks in the coils. Also maybe suggestions on proper code scanners and other proper electronic servicing tools. Thanks mike

Yes, put the plates on in October. Had some nice winter drives, they are still warmer than a bike. mike

Thanks everyone for taking the time to reply. I saw an article on a machine that does the initial heat cycle on tires, any experience with this and will the process possibly give a more consistent life to combination street/track day tires? mike

Just wondering what the group thought of the Falken Azenis rt 615 tires? thanks

Hi Matt, I'm fairly new to this group but I am in Gresham, Or. about 50mi SE of Longview. I would be glad to let you see my S2K, there are some pics in the album also, probably will be too wet to go for a drive but it is nice to compare the different kits out there. mike

Hello, I have always used a click type, or what they call now a micrometer type, for its durability and repeatability. You also don't have to be looking at it to know when torque is reached. Mine are an older Proto 50-250 and a newer Snap-on 15-80, both are very good quality. mike

JohnK, here is a nifty calculator I have had since the '60s, I'm sure there are others available out there still. Gives you a way quickly to compare tire diameters vs gear ratio, there may be new ones on line what with all these fancy computers and all. mike

RNR, would you have some pics to post of the design you arrived at for extra bracing? thanks mike

Hello, thanks for the kind words. Yes used the rod I had, 6013 spatter rod, works great on my farm equipment so this is the only time any one will see it publicly. The plate is 1/8 inch the angle is doubled on the front and the rear mount is 1/2 x 1 inch bar stock, I just bent the plate in my press gave it a nice round transition on the bends. Probably weighs twice aluminum but at least it is the lowest part of the car, maybe it will help with the darn polar inertia? and I had all the material in my scrap pile.

Just finished one of the winter projects, skid plate for my Ultralite, thought I'd share my farmer welding and plate steel 15.5 lb concoction. I have all of 3.5 inches clearance with me in it.

Just put the new skid plate on and it was all the way up to 28 degrees and not a cloud, so bundled up and charged both of our batteries.