danilo

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That's some odd failure ? Walmart part? IF mine I'd be yelling at the parts boy who sold me that substandard bit. Without doubt it wasn't due to the massive power of your engine straining to move a 4500 lb car and trailer.

Surprisingly pricey! But from looking closely at one, there IS a quality improvement over 'normal' Cat product. (The man used to race those huge orange Can Am cars) Still, he charges for it. Shipping from the UK for a Car is surprisingly reasonable and Registration is only required for Street licensing. In which case a 15 yr old car will be happily 'allowed' street registration. A 1996 Cat, plus a wrecker Hayabusa for 3 to 5K $ and you've got a 'project'

not to interfere with the man's sales. But IF these are now Sold.. you can buy lower A arms from Caterham UK or Redline Components for less than $60 each... brand new with bushes fitted. Plus some shipping of course :-)

Caterham (indirectly) makes a Hayabusa powered Cat.. in Canada :-) So you Can buy one http://super7cars.com/

Yes thank you. I've dealt there before for Spit parts. But these ends are 'alternate' pieces. Wayyy too easy to use the parts that are designed for each other.. what's the challenge in that :-).

Dang! that's impressive result. Thank you! I will follow up on that. Just Did 1981 Fiat 132 2ltre Steering Tie Rod end... Rock Auto "stocks" QR1118S... on their catalogue only, this being revealed only when one actually asks for the part!. BUT.. they require $38 shipping to get them here from the UK So much for those greedy rascals.. Gotta love 'businesses' that make their profit on shipping overcharge. Now buying from a UK source.. turns out their pricings and shipping are far more reasonable. Rod ends I'm a bit leery of. .. seductively Pretty though. Bad experiences in the past:.. shortish life/ rattled like rocks in a beer can almost as soon as the new wore off. Maybe I didn't spend enough on the ones I bought?

Thank you .. interesting Shops :-) Mine are Spit Mk 4. But I'm under the impression that all these Triumph Uprights have the same joint taper /dimensions. I'm after the screw in type Ball Joint as found on Caterhams.

I'm wanting a pair of these upper ball joints. Yes I have found the Caterham online shop. Guranteed to fit, but a bit pricey when one adds in 'their' shipping charges Just wondering IF there is a local err.. inexpensive supply ? I 'think' I've located some possible QR items (facsimiles or the real thing:-) through the RockAuto.com parts supply site. My 'guesses' are Fiat 132 (1975) track rod ends ..OR ... Range Rover HSE (before 2000my) track rod ends. These are approx $10/11 each and available. But I'm not yet positive that their shaft size/taper is exactly right, without buying 'n trying. Anyone been down this road before?

Interesting Idea, the Cosworth was a pretty engine a but imo, a bit more legend than substance to it's outputs/ performance. Why not a Hayabusa engine? 200 hp at Half the drive unit weight and from what I've seen, Salvage engines have been advertised for $3/5k. Here's a local to me, 'Authorised' Caterham Hayabusa 7 builder/supplier. http://super7cars.com/Super7_Hayabusa_Caterham.html A bit pricey .. no arguement! But the assembly /workmanship errr.. 'improves' on the Caterham assembly standard by a large margin.. true.

From my limited experiences with Motos and Turbo cars; Yess the turbo can cut some of the noises nicely. However like a Moto muffler it needs to be v freeflow. Physical volume of the can is therefore critical to silencing effect..and it's a surprisingly large volume requirement. Ever wonder why those $1500/$2000 Moto aftermarket mufflers are so darn big? And that's for 1000cc engines (usually) :-) IMO those beer can things in your photo will prove an 'interesting' experiment.

Nice.. in the land of the Not so Free, you get even crappier fuels than previously. Although here in Kanada, there is NO ethanol in 91 or 94 Octane.. yet.

From the Very First post in this thread...Could you please 'Quantify' the percieved differences in the .. front.. suspension.. beyond the Aerofoiled A Arms?? Inquiring minds :-) I would be genuinely interested to hear of altered geometry and suspension pickup points .

that Datsun had some of my interest as a possible. But I found it almost impossible to find *Anything* Datsun... beyond a 240Z these days. Better luck hunting up an old Cortina... they at least sold more of those :-)

What I'm trying to do is draw an SV chassis.. Exact copy is not necessary but proven suspender geometry is :-) I owned an S2 in the 70's an the Wife proved quite good at Solo in it Runner up in the nationals one year. Now older (and of reduced circumstance) I would like another one, as much as a project than anything else. The SV appeals as my S2 used to (too often) entangle my feet under the pedals.. a religion producing event in traffic. I have a chassis in .dwg form ...so far.. plus a start on required bits hubs, brakes, uprights, steering gear, axle and I'm learning of 'most' of the enlargements inherent in the SV ie 91+" wheel base, 59" track, 100 mm cockpit width increase . etc. The size of the chassis front eluded me.. I have guessed at it up to now and your supplied measurements suggest I was about an inch 'off'. Close but no Cigar. The Triumph uprights predetermine a lot of the possible geometry . However IF you are willing to help 'more info as to the Arm dims and their Pivot locations on the frame (as well as the height of the frame) would most certainly be useful informations I'm just reluctant to impose too heavily.

Thank you.. that's Brilliant! Erm.. Wee bit of confusion though. I'm having trouble deciphering /identifying exactly where those dims fit.. I'm Canadian eh? our English is ..odd. Presumably your answers are in the order of the questions I asked? EDIT: I drew a wee diagram and it's all Very Clear.. now Is your frame side height 13" or is it more on the SV ? Took a peek at your Car link.. V Nice indeed! A well loved toy and rightly so. What boost levels are you at? What is tolerable/semi safe :-) on a Mazda engine? I ask, as I (and the son) support a Fleet ..of turbo Saabs.. Millstones is a more apt descriptor. Just reflashed the ECU on Mine to 1.7 bar on a linear pressure curve, as opposed to the oem Full boost at 2k then tapering off after 3500. Now it increases linearly all the way to redline. Entirely different (and much preferable) power band for my tastes. Clearly that pictured Turbo is brand new, they don't stay that pristine for long. I also see that you have oem brakes.. I would assume they are adequate to needs,no reason to think otherwise.. but.. in this day when Monster brakes seem the fashion ?? Thank you again for the info.

Can't remember about race compounds on Auto tires (it was tooo long ago) But with Moto race compounds, the makers (Real ones :-) claim approx 6 heat cycles and Max 3 months useable time.. whichever comes first. Yup VERY short life. But then falling off a moto is far more serious than sliding across the parking lot. Racing is V expensive... shouldn't be any news in that.

I'm wondering Where/How? can I get a few basic SV measurements: 1) Length of lower A arm . 2) Distance between Front Upper A Arm pivots (chassis width at top) 3) Distance between Front Lower A Arm pivots (chassis width at bottom) I'm trying to establish the base dims for the front suspenders.. To check and see if I'm drawing something even similar :-) thank you

Try Aircraft spruce. "Cessna latches" are good and v light Work 'fine' on my 152 as well as tens of thousands of Cessnas, worldwide. Surprisingly pricey though http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php I had those big Rubber stretchy hold downs on my old S2, worked fine, if a bit ungainly looking.

Thank you... Yesss a 'can 'o worms ' indeed. I've looked at similar programs (likely not even near as comprehensive as yours) and the complexity can be boggling.. Also IMO, serious overkill, unless an F1 designer. Best avoided.. I think :-) I've seen basement built Dune Buggies consistently outperform distributor sponsored/prepped Porsches in Solo events. In fairness using the ancient Spitfire uprights with their trunnions masquerading as lower ball joints, instantly eliminates half of the potential design possibilites. IE: Caterham went to that spherical bottom joint on their later cars to drop the front lower A Arm pivot to the end of the chassis tube as an Anti dive 'improvement'. IMO there wasn't much of a problem there to solve. But product "must" be improved. Marketer's mantra. I'm starting to suspect that the Europa setup is likely due to either a Lotus Printing error :-) Or that the Europa, with little weight on the front wheels simply required less castor. I'm now wondering Where/How? can I get a few basic SV measurements: 1) Length of lower A arm . 2) Distance between Front Upper A Arm pivots (chassis width at top) 3) Distance between Front Lower A Arm pivots (chassis width at bottom) I'm trying to establish the base dims for the front suspenders.. To check and see if I'm drawing something even similar

Been busy (late nights) on Autocad trying to get my 'copy' of a Caterham SV chassis sorted. Going over my old Lotus manuals gleaning bits of info and specs, I found that Sevens (S 2/3 at least) were designed with the typ 5 degrees castor and the built into the triumph upright of 9 degrees kingpin inclination. BUT in what seems odd, the Europas (and presumably S4's as they used the self same suspender parts) were set for a 3 degree castor. Curiously the teeny tiny stamped steel, as opposed to tubular, A Arms are only a 1/2" shorter than those on the S2, S3 (and gawd knows how many Caterhams) Their mountings are quite rigid as well. Clearly a later design than the venerable S1 tubular one that never seems to go away :-) Untill now I thought of the Europa design as a Tonka Toy setup.. live 'n learn. Having owned an Europa for over a decade and having competed the seven against the rascals, they were No slouches at Parking Lot racing..serious competitors indeed. Real trouble with a half decent driver. Arguably even 'better' cars than Sevens. Just real Ugly pancake cars :-) Consequently the castor bit is confusing this old guy. The fact that there is a choice, more than anything I suppose :-) Design with the typical proven 5 ? or play with the Europa setup of 3 degrees??

You had a Bug eye? I had one of those too. Helped some girl push one on wet night (long ago/ misspent youth) and offered her $200 She happily took it. Was Fun to use, it had an 1100 cc engine retrofitted, trans, in typ Austin fashion had barely there synchros and as I was deep into campainging a Cooper 'S"... it was easy to rehabilitate with parts on hand. Fun to drive at reasonable speeds, but the Scuttle Shake was horrific.. I thought for sure the front end would 'fatigue off' at 100 mph. It didn't .. but I sold it at the end of that summer.. even got most of my expenditures back.. almost

Wow 5 years in the making.. at least you've started, I've been thinking about this for 10 years or so. How heavy IS that pesky Honda unit? I ask as Hyabusa drive units are reputedly 65KG all in. Not too shabby @ 194 hp /1300cc plus a nice 6 speed sequential. Clutches can be shortlived, but it's $150 parts and an hours' work, start to finish to replace Test drive video: http://super7cars.com/video%204%20jolyon.html Older (pre 2000 my) Saab 2.3 engines, albeit even heavier than an s200.. easily.. out performs the Honda.. 300hp & 350 ft lbs is seriously effective.. by any yardstick. Dunno.. if one wants that much pig iron in the front of the car though :-). Crossflow engine although not even close to current durability yardsticks is a decent engine, once balanced and revalved :-) A Madza 2.3 could be a V good substitute IMO. I wouldn't overly worry about state of art unless it's a personal achievment issue... it's the operator much more than the machine. Semi recent story of an international Ice fishing contest (who woulda thought ?) a few years back in Northern Ontario. US team showed up with every technological gizmo possible. Latvian 'team' (2 guys) lost their gear in transit.. they borrowed lines and a few hooks... they subsequently Won the contest. I've currently been obsessing over getting big enough brakes for my build.. poring over catalogues and parts lists to see what is possible.. Wife chimes in by saying there is No problem with the OEM S7 brakes .. besides you just don't use them.. they only slow you down. Nice shot of reality?

Johnk: thank you for the info. Chile? well what the heck, seems as good a pace as any. . Triumph rack worked fine in my experiences.. it just wore out quickly. No big deal at that price though. Yikes! Flaming River seems to have Usurious pricings. Didn't find a Triumph type rack (is there one?) Yes I'm aware of bump steer. Wife made it to national runner up in Solo in our/my seven .. 20+.. years ago though :blush: Although I know that 'bump steer' can be of serious concern to designers, I also know that it's.. far less.. significant in real life. Reasonably close has proven.. more.. than 'good enough' at the speeds/conditions Sevens invariably operate at. I too, often succumb to the fantasy of having everything as perfect as humanely possible. A common affliction it seems: witness the Overweight 50 yr olds on their multi thousand $$ Carbonne Bicycles :-) I too, was initially fascinated by the Ultralite when it first appeared. But despite is pricing advantages (over caterhams) I decided that it didn't appeal.. no spark/lust trigger felt :blush: it just didn't look 'right'. Brunettes vs Blondes I suppose.

1990(?) Saab 9000 has/had synchro reverse Big deal :-)