speedwagon

As a sort of outsider (have a superformance s1) would offer two suggestions A- get the IRS rear, that is the biggest fault with mine and B- Buy one of the most popular and do not consider a low volume clone, they made about 50 of mine and that is not enough to get them sorted (POs also dinked with mine) and perhaps most important you can network with the sellers and other owners when you have set-up issues. I have a wonderful car with poor parts access, no factory support, and an odd power plant = fun. "just because your car was built by a professional does not mean that it was built by an expert"

` you can. looked closely at that option with mine, as despite having previous experience with rotaries they are not my favorite engine (loud and stink like a 2 stroke). might have to use a t-5 to fit but I did not get that far. Fell into a fresh build turbo-2 engine and have the engine management computer and turbo for about 350hp and a different turbo would get about 450 fairly reliable. But if this changes it is a lsi, stop! my advice would be; sell it unmolested and buy a sorted stalker ( or if speaking of a Miata send it to flying Miata or buy one done) they will start showing up soon. forgot that you had a Miata.

S1Steve; sorry was talking about previous link to flying miata's lsi car. was awsome and could be quite docile.

What we want isn't always what we can afford, or need and be capable of using for that matter. the speedwagon is a 1936 reo

based on experience I can tell you which is quicker around the 1/4 mile, however you make the loop. went for a few laps with their driver on the Grand Junction go-kart track, very high G forces!!

Get a physical location, pay them a visit, very carefully explain to them the error of their ways, be careful to use Braille as they obviously cannot hear or see. Have done that a time or two localy in my youth and it is quite effective, but watch out for the sheriff. but thanks for the pointers, was not aware that sellers could be excluded, and as an after thought this might be a good reason to bid their item up and not pay. might have to have a long list of aliases. usually on feebay searches i use auction only and if i am serious about buying 90% of the time it is available elsewhere for less.

Ziltch-- was so bad on the job that they pay me not to come.

makes me sorry that I didn't keep at the grindstone long enough to become filthy rich.

for me it is drive or starve------- it is just what I prefer to drive.

two laughing!!!

the most bang for the buck powerplant would be the 1600 dual-port vw or a subi. the vw can be had with a reliable 300 hp. But then a Miata/ls1 would do everything cheaper and more comfortably.

thank you for the gooood laugh.

everything is a compromise, but instead of this, why not a ls1 Stalker with good foul weather cover and heat/ac, balance on a track car if you wanted one. Have a S1 and have come to accept that you can not shake down a design in a production run of 50, not to mention where in the blazes do we get parts? My take is stick to the tried and true where you can get support for most of what you have or build a locost yourself. My choice for a DD would be an fd rx7 with LS1 and auto. or a mid-ship lotus. But kinda like what i have.

most shocks need to be upright for the fluid to drain down, but some are designed differently. just noticed the sway bar linkage and adjustment, this is a well engineered and quite light weight car.

Think of unsprung weight as components that are subject to inertia no matter where they are located. Shock absorbers are an attempt to control inertia and if you reduce unsprung weight it makes their job easier. All suspension geometry is to maintain the most ideal tire contact for the largest percentage of time particulary in the most critical positions. to me inboard brakes make the most sense except for cooling. on the other hand; cars with live axles run pretty close to the same times and perhaps simplicity is best-- wait I just described a 7.

and -- no restaurants, no grocery, no mucho people, relaxed but sometimes lonely. sometimes forget and leave keys in 7 overnight, shouldn't as it is temptation for those youths.

bought mine last december and drove through 10" of fresh snow to get it. and it is in the trailer but tomorrow may back it out and go to town (100 miles) got hot air comming of the radiator into cab and it is toasty. there is no bad time for a fun car. but there are some real bargains out there now.

I own a rotary 7, while not my favorite choice of engines, it is powerful (and that is easily increased) as reliable as any engine and pulls smooth to about 9k. I was loud and hard to quiet down and is short on compression breaking. With today's brakes the compression braking is not an issue. They are not a two stroke but in a class of their own and the fuel usage is just slightly more than a piston engine. In short there is little chance that i will change it and if I did it would be for a v8. and if it was a track car not in a class the rotary would be my choice due to the low center of gravity and ease of obtaining horsepower. Somebody got a real fun car that will have a thin resale market as the only downside except maybe a carb change or FI. To each his own. And yes i also love the sound of a four-banger at high Rs.

have a 7 variant with a rotary-- meets all except the warranty, but have gobs of cash left over, is quick by any standard, will lift front wheels, one gear to 60mph, heat will roast you out, put 3500 miles on it this year as daily driver---- second choice would be a Miata with a handling and turbo kit. super reliable tight in weather and smooth fun to drive, wont satisfy your machismo though. At 70 the ac is tempting.

My S1 is on my geico liability policy as same as the truck and buggy. When asked about collision my replywas that I have not had it since 1963 and have saved enough to cover a total loss and besides the salvage value could well reach the price that I had paid. My main concern is my own backside if i can save it who cares about the car. It may be small and vunerble on the interstate but it stops quick turns fast and acelerates quicker than the hunters, so it is hard to hit if you pay attention.

have a 13b with a weber 48 and it was loud, now has two "turbo" style mufflers in series, noise is down to a reasonable level but so is power, and exhaust heat burns anyone who rides, being on the passenger side. my planned fix is a turbo-ll and a side pipe with heat shield and a short running board over it. Have also considered an oval 3" tail pipe as my car is almost all street and raised to be able to clear the 4" rocks that appear out of no where and get straddled. for keeping the NA would suggest the longest muffler that will fit between the wheels, either flowmaster type with baffles or with stainless wool that can be replaced. One other tip that came to me is to only use just enough octane ,(i run regular) as a rotary will be still burning the "slow" fuel in the exhaust creating more heat there. that said; i an not a rotary expert.

Bocars were mfg. in denver in the late 50s, using a devin body and a chevy small block with a GMC blower crank driven up front. have wanted one since they were new but now couldn't afford one if it was found. And that show is some part of history.

the real question should be how does it drive and handle? Years ago a guy Named Jim Hall showed that autos do work on a sporty track. no it is not a 7 per say but neither is the s1 that i have. Mine takes the place of the well handling track roadster that I will never have time to build, everything is a compromise and I would be willing to bet that there is a track roadster type hot rod out there that can out run any 7ish that one of us have. just couldn't keep quiet.

try joining; http://www.rx7club.com/forum_index.php there is a wealth of info on there and some of it is regional, good chance you can find an excellent tuner in your area, if you take care of one of them they are hard to kill. I am in the same shape as you with a superformance s1 and a rotary 13b with a weber 48 and while not the engine of my choice; it runs, have two turbo engines in shop, but my choice for replacement would be either Miata or 5.0 ford/trans from a mustang. almost as light, narrower (important), hard to kill, and hop up parts galore. john

Mondo; You have experts and professionals mixed up---there are no experts working for others that I know of except perhaps BRK.