speedwagon

Right on! this is a case of adjusted statistics. But we do indeed have a problem in our publicly held companies, and it is all too easy to see where the board of directors (and CEO) are not acting in the best interest of the owners. For the most part I can locate an Indiana farm boy who can run your corporation better than most of the hyped CEOs. Invest carefully so you can buy more sevens.

You pays your money and makes your choices, to each his own, First started using turbos in early 70s cause they were cheap power and reliable, the tech. has changes remarkably over the years, but it is hard to get the instant response from a turbo engine that you can get from a NA, turbo lag is a non factor now but the quick bark that comes from a normally aspirated engine is hard to obtain, as for engine management being complicated- it is the same either way when you start extracting large amounts of power from a small engine. for my part; I am quite willing to admire both the workmanship and driving skill that comes from the owners of these cars. let's not fight- there are very very few true lotus 7s out there.

there are more than 2 positions to the foot-feed. A well balanced turbo is hard to detect in the power band, in fact can usually be less tweeky than a non-turbo of the same hp/wt . there is no such thing as too much horsepower, there is such a thing as using too much of it.

my s1 fenders come down to about 8" off the ground in front, I don't like the look real well, but I do not get the rocks thrown forward and it has seen some gravel roads at speeds fast enough to smooth out the washboards, my fiberglass buggy with higher cut fenders just heaves rocks and mud out the front so you can drive into it. those s1 fenders are looking better all the time.

Just got back from a couple days in Grand Junction, it's 125 miles from my place in ticaboo/lake powell, was a fun drive shredded a tire at about 90 that was hard on the front fender bracket but other wise ok, heater worked fine and came back with the trunk full and groceries piled to the roof in passenger's side. will need to fix a bag to hang off the spare in back .

lets put the "good of the party" or "will it help my re-election" above what is "good for the country" There are no innocents.

As a former union employer, member, organizer, and somewhat successful investor I feel for those who cannot enjoy sharing the "well earned wealth". When speaking against the black people let us not forget to remember the "clan". Would laugh my butt off if somehow every black could own his very own "conservative businessman"

Make friends with some of the young people with rice burners. there will be a local "tuner" or two that get recommended, usually is wise to use what the locals are used to. I have a haltech but in my area the kids like megasquirt. Do some research on line and perhaps you can get a map that suits your engine, I know one person who has a 2300 pinto and a 2300 vw and he uses the same sensors and computer on both motors, says 2300 is 2300 and the computer can't tel the difference. The megasquirt is a "stand alone" and is "open source" and can be bought assembled or as a kit with various add=ons out there.

As a sort of outsider (have a superformance s1) would offer two suggestions A- get the IRS rear, that is the biggest fault with mine and B- Buy one of the most popular and do not consider a low volume clone, they made about 50 of mine and that is not enough to get them sorted (POs also dinked with mine) and perhaps most important you can network with the sellers and other owners when you have set-up issues. I have a wonderful car with poor parts access, no factory support, and an odd power plant = fun. "just because your car was built by a professional does not mean that it was built by an expert"

` you can. looked closely at that option with mine, as despite having previous experience with rotaries they are not my favorite engine (loud and stink like a 2 stroke). might have to use a t-5 to fit but I did not get that far. Fell into a fresh build turbo-2 engine and have the engine management computer and turbo for about 350hp and a different turbo would get about 450 fairly reliable. But if this changes it is a lsi, stop! my advice would be; sell it unmolested and buy a sorted stalker ( or if speaking of a Miata send it to flying Miata or buy one done) they will start showing up soon. forgot that you had a Miata.

S1Steve; sorry was talking about previous link to flying miata's lsi car. was awsome and could be quite docile.

What we want isn't always what we can afford, or need and be capable of using for that matter. the speedwagon is a 1936 reo

based on experience I can tell you which is quicker around the 1/4 mile, however you make the loop. went for a few laps with their driver on the Grand Junction go-kart track, very high G forces!!

Get a physical location, pay them a visit, very carefully explain to them the error of their ways, be careful to use Braille as they obviously cannot hear or see. Have done that a time or two localy in my youth and it is quite effective, but watch out for the sheriff. but thanks for the pointers, was not aware that sellers could be excluded, and as an after thought this might be a good reason to bid their item up and not pay. might have to have a long list of aliases. usually on feebay searches i use auction only and if i am serious about buying 90% of the time it is available elsewhere for less.

Ziltch-- was so bad on the job that they pay me not to come.

makes me sorry that I didn't keep at the grindstone long enough to become filthy rich.

for me it is drive or starve------- it is just what I prefer to drive.

two laughing!!!

the most bang for the buck powerplant would be the 1600 dual-port vw or a subi. the vw can be had with a reliable 300 hp. But then a Miata/ls1 would do everything cheaper and more comfortably.

thank you for the gooood laugh.

everything is a compromise, but instead of this, why not a ls1 Stalker with good foul weather cover and heat/ac, balance on a track car if you wanted one. Have a S1 and have come to accept that you can not shake down a design in a production run of 50, not to mention where in the blazes do we get parts? My take is stick to the tried and true where you can get support for most of what you have or build a locost yourself. My choice for a DD would be an fd rx7 with LS1 and auto. or a mid-ship lotus. But kinda like what i have.

most shocks need to be upright for the fluid to drain down, but some are designed differently. just noticed the sway bar linkage and adjustment, this is a well engineered and quite light weight car.

Think of unsprung weight as components that are subject to inertia no matter where they are located. Shock absorbers are an attempt to control inertia and if you reduce unsprung weight it makes their job easier. All suspension geometry is to maintain the most ideal tire contact for the largest percentage of time particulary in the most critical positions. to me inboard brakes make the most sense except for cooling. on the other hand; cars with live axles run pretty close to the same times and perhaps simplicity is best-- wait I just described a 7.

and -- no restaurants, no grocery, no mucho people, relaxed but sometimes lonely. sometimes forget and leave keys in 7 overnight, shouldn't as it is temptation for those youths.

bought mine last december and drove through 10" of fresh snow to get it. and it is in the trailer but tomorrow may back it out and go to town (100 miles) got hot air comming of the radiator into cab and it is toasty. there is no bad time for a fun car. but there are some real bargains out there now.