speedwagon

Tranquillo! tranquillo, I was attracted here and continue to return, I do not actually belong even though owning a sort of seven and being well over 70. I have driven over 700 miles in a day in it and it would be my favorite road car (although if the xj8 jag could be trusted it would slip ahead for comfort). Some of us here know far more, have more funding, are more fanatic, are more attached to the original brand, and may even be a little more proud, but all contribute and should be accepted for what they are-- just as imperfect as the rest of us. Sorry just had to speak.

Agree with BusaNostra. 58lbs core weight without flywheel bell housing and accessory drive. That and a tbo of 500 hrs makes the Mazda rotary that's in mine look good. It is a directed toward the aviation market. Rotaries are not for the faint of heart but do produce a lot of power for weight and size/shape.

have taken a poll and Jon Stewart won the debate the other night while absent.

Have a question. How does the intercooler location work out? I have a Superformance S1 that is getting upgraded to a fresh T-ll street ported 13B and have considered a "close to cowl" location as the frontal area is used up with oil and water cooling and the more rear location would be much neater. Had cooling problems with old na engine with the original S1 radiator and oil cooler but it was tired. Now have a fb alm radiator and a fc oil cooler with a beehive in reserve for added oil cooling if needed. It is not easy being different. thanks, John

My advice; Buy!! You will get plenty of experience just keeping one going. Start looking and when you find the one that bumps your switch in your price range that fits you- buy it. Look at; fit, finish, build documentation and content. Miata drive train would be most reliable. Do not be afraid of a "home built" and do not worry about "best handling" (the light weight will give you that) I have a Manx clone that is quicker, handles nearly as good and is more fun to drive than my superformance S1. If you buy right in today's market, your losses when selling will be minor and whichever you buy later you will want something different. "don't worry be happy"

Try the haltech web site or google haltech, have a haltech on a rorary and have found the rx7club.com to be a wealth of information. Am sure that there is a focus web site similar.

It seems that we all agree it is a niche market. In my case if I had wanted a "track car" it would have been a RX-7 fd with a ls v8 (cleaner lines and much more aerodynamic ) Wanted a track style T roadster but stumbled across a S1 for 16.5k with a rotary and bought it. Then rather than upgrading to a v8 or such decided to go with a turbo-ed rotary. still under 20k and all the defects are caused by me, lots of bang for the buck.. But to defend the US vs small engine choice- there is more thrill with more HP and HP does indeed win races.

Basically think -"tilt Trailer" Can offer two suggestions, for the ramp to beaver tail my trailer has a hinged extension to the ramp that folds to the inside(top) of the ramp that helps, then I just either park the truck so that the rear is high or on wheel ramps to bring the trailer dove tail closer to the same plane as the ramp. if the dove tail to trailer still cases problems add a sheet of 3/4 plywood just inside the beaver tail in the trailer to smooth the transition. These puppies can be hard to load, a lot of my problems went away when I raised the car enough to be able to straddle a 4" rock in the road while living in Utah near lake Powell and the new home with 3 miles of dirt roar in golden valley,az will keep it there. Better to not handle quite so good and get home

My s1 has had both stays rebuilt in a similar fashion and now trailer fenders as one of the glass ones rotated and got ran over. If you own a s1 you need to be a fabricator, but the seating sure is comfortable.

Looks like a simple plastic tube filled with borax and pressurized. The heat sourse determines where the "nozzle" is. Brilliant idea! Especially so to one who is repairing a Miata that had an engine fire caused by a pack rat's nest back over the coil pack. Would have saved me; a tow, plug wires, coil pack, and several hours rebuilding the burned wiring. Price seems high for what it is, but several will be on my shopping list. Although a simple dry extinguisher with a length of tube attached and constantly pressurized might work better.

at $621 for the KCs it would almost be cheaper to hit another cow, and the black hair imbedded in the nose is a great conversation starter. john

Steve your s1 is in near stock shape and likely will be worth more as time goes on. My experience with one that came with a rotary and was slightly abused (more so now and also has cow hair embedded in the nose from attempted intercourse) is that even slight changes like upgrading to a turbo rotary is not easy in this car. I have to stay with the NA transmission because it barely fits, and mine already has a 10 bolt gm rear scabbed in. My initial investment is much less, body work was already needed, i enjoy the work, but it has been 2 years and not done. Just buy a Stalker or a similar well sorted car with a gm power plant. Or just take the ls and your Miata to flying miata.

This problem not directly related to Wilwood , but is a cotter key installation error and can happen to any spindle mounted hub that uses a key locked nut. And specifically for the superformance guys-- are you aware that on the early models the master cylinders were too large. This can be rectified by using s new 5/8' in the front position and switching the front to the rear.

when will we learn as a country-- you cannot play fair with those who don't understand that there are rules. We are going to lose. And our business leaders are paving the way.

thank you, well worth the time.

Being an ex-electrician I use rubber splicing tape. just be careful not to stretch it. Also have a bulk roll of tube patch material that should work.

Busa; Best wishes from me. Igot lucky several years ago and wish the same good luck to you. john

To get back on the thread. I wish to seek forgiveness for the rant on SPF, not to them but to the seller here. I definitely do not regret buying mine, the suspension is very well thought out and very adjustable, brakes do not get any better than Willwood, the seating is very comfortable (have driven mine about 900 miles in one day, hit a cow and the frame was still square, covered 75 miles of wash board roads with minor problems, and you can almost stay dry in a heavy rain. (needs AC though). The car handles much better than i can drive. There are a few things that have to be changed but the same can be said about all. This is a very nice looking car and if it can be competitive on the track is is well sorted. Good luck with your sale.

I would echo DAVED's statment, would I buy another used one? yes. a new one of anything from superformance? no way!! The s-1 is a well made and well designed for a car that was intended for production. But; even the parts used in it that were "off the shelf" are of undisclosed origin and all are hard to come by and when found over priced. If I ever have a second one it will be a US made stalker. The spf web group is mostly company hipe and a joke. Am i bitter? just slightly.

And this too shall come to pass. And at that point I will be looking up laughing.

It never ceases to amaze me that a person can be a liberal democrat union member and when they finally are able to buy a small piece of land and 3 cows, they suddenly start listening to rough limpbrow, and become a republican. It is entirely possible to be an employer and pay and treat your employes well and fairly and still make a good return on your investment and time, But only too often greed turns a person into something previously held in contempt. If you wish to be an employee, find one of the good employers, do well by them, and leave when you feel that you are being treated unfairly. As they will leave you if you do not treat them fairly. I have been- a business man, management, a union official/worker, a union employer, union worker, and old and retarded, in that order and find that our system is not perfect, but works as well as possible when humans are involved. Personally "I play with the toys in the closet"

do a google search for-- remote oil filter kit or oil filter relocation, and use your engine or filter number to refine the search. there are kits with an adapter in place of your oil filter and use hose and a remote filter mount that can be put where you want it. john

As a not so proud owner of a former superformance 7 orphan (S1) I can sort of fortel the future, and while broke from fabricating unavailable parts will be snikkering at the end. shudda bought either a well documented locost or a us made with us parts storker.

In a world of supply vs demand, the relative value will go down. Price no doubt will come up due to "planned" inflation. The supply of 7s is increasing at a rapid rate, and the availability of seriously "fun" new cars is at an all time high. All of us who now hold current "classic" cars are fixing to leave our kids depreciated assets. No big deal so long as "we" enjoy them while we can. Even now the price of a RX-7 FD is dropping as we speak.

He who has the most polar inertia loses. ave had several meyers with various engines from 40hp to Corvair 250hp turbo, all handle good but the tail weight loses with all else being the same. Now my old mid engine off road car with the 250 corvair would make short work of a seven when set down low. (a d-cambered swing axle will out perform any live axle.) But in the end set up and driver would make the most difference.