speedwagon

for me it is drive or starve------- it is just what I prefer to drive.

two laughing!!!

the most bang for the buck powerplant would be the 1600 dual-port vw or a subi. the vw can be had with a reliable 300 hp. But then a Miata/ls1 would do everything cheaper and more comfortably.

thank you for the gooood laugh.

everything is a compromise, but instead of this, why not a ls1 Stalker with good foul weather cover and heat/ac, balance on a track car if you wanted one. Have a S1 and have come to accept that you can not shake down a design in a production run of 50, not to mention where in the blazes do we get parts? My take is stick to the tried and true where you can get support for most of what you have or build a locost yourself. My choice for a DD would be an fd rx7 with LS1 and auto. or a mid-ship lotus. But kinda like what i have.

most shocks need to be upright for the fluid to drain down, but some are designed differently. just noticed the sway bar linkage and adjustment, this is a well engineered and quite light weight car.

Think of unsprung weight as components that are subject to inertia no matter where they are located. Shock absorbers are an attempt to control inertia and if you reduce unsprung weight it makes their job easier. All suspension geometry is to maintain the most ideal tire contact for the largest percentage of time particulary in the most critical positions. to me inboard brakes make the most sense except for cooling. on the other hand; cars with live axles run pretty close to the same times and perhaps simplicity is best-- wait I just described a 7.

and -- no restaurants, no grocery, no mucho people, relaxed but sometimes lonely. sometimes forget and leave keys in 7 overnight, shouldn't as it is temptation for those youths.

bought mine last december and drove through 10" of fresh snow to get it. and it is in the trailer but tomorrow may back it out and go to town (100 miles) got hot air comming of the radiator into cab and it is toasty. there is no bad time for a fun car. but there are some real bargains out there now.

I own a rotary 7, while not my favorite choice of engines, it is powerful (and that is easily increased) as reliable as any engine and pulls smooth to about 9k. I was loud and hard to quiet down and is short on compression breaking. With today's brakes the compression braking is not an issue. They are not a two stroke but in a class of their own and the fuel usage is just slightly more than a piston engine. In short there is little chance that i will change it and if I did it would be for a v8. and if it was a track car not in a class the rotary would be my choice due to the low center of gravity and ease of obtaining horsepower. Somebody got a real fun car that will have a thin resale market as the only downside except maybe a carb change or FI. To each his own. And yes i also love the sound of a four-banger at high Rs.

have a 7 variant with a rotary-- meets all except the warranty, but have gobs of cash left over, is quick by any standard, will lift front wheels, one gear to 60mph, heat will roast you out, put 3500 miles on it this year as daily driver---- second choice would be a Miata with a handling and turbo kit. super reliable tight in weather and smooth fun to drive, wont satisfy your machismo though. At 70 the ac is tempting.

My S1 is on my geico liability policy as same as the truck and buggy. When asked about collision my replywas that I have not had it since 1963 and have saved enough to cover a total loss and besides the salvage value could well reach the price that I had paid. My main concern is my own backside if i can save it who cares about the car. It may be small and vunerble on the interstate but it stops quick turns fast and acelerates quicker than the hunters, so it is hard to hit if you pay attention.

have a 13b with a weber 48 and it was loud, now has two "turbo" style mufflers in series, noise is down to a reasonable level but so is power, and exhaust heat burns anyone who rides, being on the passenger side. my planned fix is a turbo-ll and a side pipe with heat shield and a short running board over it. Have also considered an oval 3" tail pipe as my car is almost all street and raised to be able to clear the 4" rocks that appear out of no where and get straddled. for keeping the NA would suggest the longest muffler that will fit between the wheels, either flowmaster type with baffles or with stainless wool that can be replaced. One other tip that came to me is to only use just enough octane ,(i run regular) as a rotary will be still burning the "slow" fuel in the exhaust creating more heat there. that said; i an not a rotary expert.

Bocars were mfg. in denver in the late 50s, using a devin body and a chevy small block with a GMC blower crank driven up front. have wanted one since they were new but now couldn't afford one if it was found. And that show is some part of history.

the real question should be how does it drive and handle? Years ago a guy Named Jim Hall showed that autos do work on a sporty track. no it is not a 7 per say but neither is the s1 that i have. Mine takes the place of the well handling track roadster that I will never have time to build, everything is a compromise and I would be willing to bet that there is a track roadster type hot rod out there that can out run any 7ish that one of us have. just couldn't keep quiet.

try joining; http://www.rx7club.com/forum_index.php there is a wealth of info on there and some of it is regional, good chance you can find an excellent tuner in your area, if you take care of one of them they are hard to kill. I am in the same shape as you with a superformance s1 and a rotary 13b with a weber 48 and while not the engine of my choice; it runs, have two turbo engines in shop, but my choice for replacement would be either Miata or 5.0 ford/trans from a mustang. almost as light, narrower (important), hard to kill, and hop up parts galore. john

Mondo; You have experts and professionals mixed up---there are no experts working for others that I know of except perhaps BRK.

in tank fuel pump cooled and lubricated by gas, anything less than 1/4 tank and the pump is at risk of excessive wear, it will quit again, no question about it and one of these quits will be the last. the dealer should be smart enough to know this and may even pay for your tow. tee heee

now have two turbo mufflers in series and it is ok. thinking about two stainless magna flow welded close and polished, but then again a turbo makes an excellent muffler.also have a side pipe that will get tested. my guess that the magna flow non packed mufflers would hold op best. Good luck and what are you running for intake?

there are really very few true sevens and very hard to classify. Most racing organizations are good old boy, life is not fair, I personally have never went to the starting line when i didn't think that i had an unfair advantage,(sometimes i was confused). I have access to open roads without traffic that can be played on, but would consider track day or autocross just for fun and to run against my own time. What is really unfair that these wonderful cars are wasted on old folks, if only i could have had one when 30 maybe it would have been used to it's full potential. doubt that i will live long enough to learn how to press this car. I f you are going to compete; pick a class and build to that class, otherwise be happy running with the big boys who do. life is a trip the destination is not the goal. was thinking about Yellowstone trip but am still learning car, just discovered that the metering pump was disabled and it should have been on premix- the pitfalls of buying rather than building. john canning- Ticaboo, ut

You are right. a new record, a new track, a new and larger purse. Not a hill climb anymore but a pavement event that happens to go uphill. The northern europeans have some real wild ones, and in this country the best is the lands end hill climb, though not a very good spectator event. Ran the peak open wheel in 72 with a 1500 dollar car, a fun time not to be equaled today.

I used to have tinnitus, but any hearing aid will tend to mask it and even at night when you are not wearing them it seemed to stay away, my current aids are designed with an adjustable tinnitus masker built in. an added advantage is that with a closed fit they act like electronic muffs in that you do not hear the loud noises, they are limited in volume by the program so that no protection is needed. I can fire my 44 without hurting and my hearing has gotten no worse in 20 years. Most of you who are old enough to want or afford likely already have some hearing loss and the sooner you get them the better. Hearing again is like learning a new language, the data is there but it sounds different. if you have good hearing, buy good protection!! it is the long lasting drone that gets you, ear plugs that allow you to hear at all don't get it, find something that shooters use and spend like you would on a helmet, you WILL be exposed to noise in a 7 but how likely is it that you will roll?

the truth be known, the rx-7 could be faster and is certainly more civilized. (very few of us are capable of stressing a 7), used mine on long road trips and even camped in it for a couple of weeks, too bad it had to scratch it's back.

going to barge in here. the owner is always the best shop.-- a level floor and a home made protractor will set camber and caster difference by checking camber at the same turn angle for each side, I measure toe with a string from front to rear or from rear to front for the back. there are other things to consider but the best discription that i have seen in some time is in secondstrike manual for the superformance S1 http://www.secondstrike.com/TechTips.htm it is not hard and what seems right to you might not suit the other person, tip; nearer to a street set-up is easier to drive and then advance to your race set-up.

The seller told me that there was some guy who wanted it but his wife was making him sell one first. when I asked my ex bed warmer about it, she said "if you think you will have that much in your account when you die this would be a good place to spend it". Would have rather had a 4 stroke motor and since it is a driver the first thing that happened was two turbo mufflers to tone it down a bit. have limited experience with rotarys but have a set of turbos from the later models and also have a matched set of vnt-25s. it now has a 48 weber and may switch to a dell or a pair of su hifs and blow thru, it is a small car and needs to be kept simple. aging is mandatory, maturity is optional.