mrmustang

I did order a low pressure switch over the weekend that I can always install in that spot, just not likely to do so at this time. Thanks Bill

No, you misunderstood what I posted, if a VIN format from another Caterham is already in the system, whether it was from coming in to the state from another, or working off the MSO/MCO as new, the computer system (early computers were very rudimentary at best) defaults to that format as well. If nothing is in the system, generally speaking, the paperwork was sent to that states "special titles division", which would then make calls to other state(s) DMV/MVS offices to see if they have come across such a car in their past (remember phones where the lifeline of every company before the internet), or dissected the MCO/MSO/previous title until they could make it work in their system. I've told the story elsewhere of being at a West Palm Beach Barrett Jackson auction in the 90's and buying an early RHD Series 1 Lotus 7 (Kent motor powered with two weber carbs) being sold as a kit car because the word "kit" was notated on a certain west coast state title (ca), but it had the correct VIN on the title as well. $1,300 for the car, $520 for enclosed shipping from Florida to NJ. The deal of the century at that time......Took me 6 months of working with the NJ special titles division (still in the same office on State Street today) to get the word "kit" removed from the title..........Today I'm less likely to rock the boat, and I'm just happy to have my 2003 SV titled here in SC. Bill

Up until the early 2K's, most states would use whatever came close in their system VIN wise. If someone titled their car as a 1960, 1965, 1970, etc using their cars VIN, and the basic VIN dynamics was already in the system, that is what they defaulted to. Some states, in the case of my 2003, did not have a Caterham style VIN in their system to work with, and issued their own state VIN tag to supersede the factory issued VIN. Both are now on the car, I'm not likely to rock the boat to get it retitled under the original VIN. Now, that is not to say others have used an earlier year designation to circumvent paying higher personal property taxes that quite a few states collect on vehicles, motorcycles, and boats (SC being one of them). Bill

Everything is here and installed but the new oxygen sensor, part came in to the local store, when I saw the bottom of the box was all taped up I insisted they open it up, good thing, as there was a beautiful, highly carboned, beat up and quite used oxygen sensor inside. Sigh, ordered a pair (one as a spare) on Ebay, still new in their packaging, should have them Wednesday or Thursday if I'm lucky. Then it's time to fire the car and see where we stand. Bill PS: Before you say use the one that is currently installed, I would, but the wires have been cut and spliced one too many times for my tastes.

1/4" 18 pipe thread, not British thread on the adapter that screws directly into the block, the adapter was a 10mm 1 thread style. I've got my oil/gas pipe dope (what OEM's use for sensors and such) drying on the threads of the new plug for an hour, and will then install it in the block, let it sit overnight, and fire it up to check for potential leaks. Bill

Time Machine is out of stock, but has some "on the water", I've got dibs on #1. In the mean time, I bought an inexpensive stretch cover from "shopforcovers", it stretches to fit, but is not the best quality (shipped out of the Netherlands) Bill

Absolutely possible, however, without any spare wires other then the engine harness itself, I'm stumped. Part number is HPS (high pressure switch) then 2155 or 2165 . Saw that it was screwed into an adapter, which was then screwed into the billet distribution block, just pulled and cleaned that and will be headed off to Ace first, if no luck there, then Grainger on Monday. Thinking just a simple plug will do at this point will do. Not certain I'll pull the dash and start chasing wires, maybe if I lose sleep over it I'll dive in, but not likely. Bill

I'll try to get out today, believe it was an oil pressure sender as I got a drop or two of oil out as I removed it. Clearly it has been replaced by the silver pressure sender above it, so now the hunt for a proper plug will commence.

Any idea what size thread they are on, since there is no wire for the circled switch, I'd like to remove it from under the hood (bonnet). Bill

New high impedance injectors are installed Tomorrow plugs, wires, coil Then will fire up and see how it goes. Wish me luck Bill

Have the following mystery switch (no spare wire to be found), believe maybe it is a low pressure brake light switch ????? Can someone identify for me so I can dig into the wiring diagram to see what wire should be hooked up to it. Or the part number I need to replace it.... Thanks in advance, Bill

Oil and oil filter change done. Oil filter was found to be not that old (a K&N unit, not even finger tight), but the oil appeared quite dark, and may not have been of a synthetic blend. 5 quarts of synthetic Valvoline "advanced" 5W 20 oil and we are good to go. Brake and clutch fluids have been flushed, they were clean and clear, but at least now I know when it was last done. Filled the overflow tank of the radiator half way, but have not run the car long enough to open the thermostat to see if I'll need more or not. Really don't want to run the car till I change the injectors, plugs, wires and coil at this point. Hoping that everything else starts to trickle in to the local post office today, as I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel in regards to the baseline. Bill

Just a quick update as I had an hour of free time this early afternoon and I'm proud to say the original Delphi FF52 fuel filter, with it's June 2002 date code has now been excised from the car. Both the previously mentioned Fram G3727 and the ACDelco GF952 are within a 1/16th of an inch difference in length, I decided on the FRAM G3727 as it appears to be a better built unit of the two, I'll hold on to the other just so I have a back up in the garage. Pressurized the system found no leaks, and fired the car up on the second turn of the key. I'm now waiting on the new Motorcraft SP463 Plugs to be gaped at .050 per Tom (1turbofocus) the high impedance 30lb/hr injectors, and the MSD coil and wire set. If I get time tomorrow I'll do the oil and oil filter change while I wait for everything else to arrive...Then dive in to the rest in short order and hopefully be able to take the car around the block and further. Thanks to all who have assisted so far. Bill

Maybe I misspoke, the pump cycles when the power (IE: cut off) is turned on, but kicks off 5-10 seconds later, car turns off normally with the regular key. Pump does not continuously run. I'll start with the basics you laid out hopefully next week, once all the parts have arrived (tuesday/wednesday time frame)..Until then the car remains stagnant, unless I get motivated to do the oil and oil filter before then. Bill

Thanks, I'll give them a call

The Pectel T2 was sourced after the car was pulled out of it's 20 foot Sealand style container here in the US from Caterham USA, along with the "stage 1" engine (I know this included a cam change, but have no clue as to what cam, or anything else that included for the 10K plus the original owner was charged), I have those general emails. The in tank fuel pump kicks in and builds pressure when the battery disconnect is turned on, then kicks off once pressure builds. I found this out yesterday when testing another battery cut off key I had in my toolbox from an old race car. It fit, and works, so that is one less thing I need to order as a back up. I have 30lb/hr high impedance fuel injectors on order, besides oil (5 quarts I believe for the Caterham wet sump pan) and an oil filter (I'll pick those up today), everything is on it's way. Now the only thing I do not have is a computer cable for the T2 to laptop, have no idea exactly what I need, can you assist with a part number or a supplier for this? Appreciate everything you have offered this fellow Pectel T2 (amateur) owner. Bill

Just checked the whole harness as far back as I could see without viewing a resistor pack. Really hate to cut a line with a factory end on it, however, I think you are on to something with the Fram G3727 , I had thought about a ACDelco GF952,(5.75 x 2.44 x 2.37 inches) might grab both and see which fits better, with less adapters. May bite the bullet and pull the old one to see if there is a part number on the back of it. Doubt it, but you never know Two new pictures showing actual length (not the 6.5" with all the adapters) but a hair over 4", real close to the Fram 4.35" height Thank you once again for giving me leads.

The paperwork I have from Pectel showed a WIN 98 or WIN XP platform, I have the CD, but have yet to load it on my old Windows 10 laptop. I may blow the dust off it and see if it will load and open the program. Thanks Bill

Motivated after a full pot of coffee and a bagel this am, the car is now up in the air (or as far as I can get it), hood is off, and I've had a chance to crawl under to look things over. Found a nice tidy Caterham sump, really nice install of the harnesses, although I've got a drop of oil on the floor, but it's not coming from the pan, I'll figure that one out. Injectors are a "D1610BA" which translate to a 30lb/hr low impedance unit, I'm wondering how long they have been installed, too clean to be the originals, but they have to go as the Percel unit specifies high impedance injectors. Fuel filter is a mystery item, as I cannot find a part number on it, the body itself is 3" long, have not figured out threading yet, almost afraid to take it off as it may be under pressure. Don't want to spray myself with fuel. With the current induction setup, shouldn't one of the butterflies be slightly open on a cold start? These are all adjusted the same, closed.. Aside from that, the spark plugs are Autolite 5364s, the gap right out of the box and not new, wires, while NGK units, are self made, and semi questionable. Coil is a stock Ford unit (2003 dated). Besides the MSD coil and wire set, I'm going to bump up to the XP5364 (Iridium tip), oil and filter change, and try to figure out a replacement high impedance injector (does not have to be much larger than the 30lb/hr, if larger at all). Any one that can assist, or perhaps guide me a little here or there, as always, the assistance is greatly appreciated. Bill

Car still not on jack stands/ramps, hoping to get that done today so I can get a look under the car. Pectel is a T2, with 24K miles on the car, at least 8,000 with the Zetec engine installed, I have to believe the ECU is tuned well, so I'm going to hold off trying to find a XP laptop and cable to communicate with it. Ordered a new MSD coil pack and wire set Have not decided on plugs yet, once it's on stands, I will to identify, then replace with new Have a note on the windscreen to check fuel injectors to see if they are high or low impedance (research shows Pectel uses high impedance), may want to replace, still doing research. Fuel filter is a must to replace once I find and identify. Also need to check all fuel lines and fittings, I do not smell gas, but they are 23 years old... Need to pull the air filter (on stands) and check to see if anything is loose on the induction system. Once the car is running with new parts, will check for vacuum leak(s). Anything else come to mind? Thanks in advance Bill

Looking at the pleating, it certainly appears to be a K&N filter, have you thought to send pictures of the filter (pull it out of the car, lay it out flat and take shots showing the dimensions and the general overall filter itself) to K&N's tech support division? tech@knfilters.com Bill

Well, the good news is, the in tank pump does work and cycles to build pressure before the starter is engaged. Car has been moved in to the larger garage, now resides next to my tool box and work bench. Still unheated, but the closer I am to my tools, the more likely I am to motivate myself. Bill

Uncertain of the model of Pectel right now, as I have not delved in to the files to review everything. Apparently, with motivation from your post above, it did get me off my behind and out to the cold garage this AM where I stuck a camera under the dash and took some raw shots. The two from the drivers (RH) side answered some of my questions as to fuse/relay location. Now I just need a day of 50 degree temps and I'll be able to further motivate myself into getting the car up on stands so I can get underneath to review everything else. Appreciate the assistance Bill

Disclaimer: sorry if I ramble, it's been a long day and I'm winding down for the evening. Now let's start at the beginning. Car is a 2003 SV, originally built for the overseas market with a 1.8L Rover engine in 2004 the owner, after a lengthy honeymoon in Australia, was offered a job in the US, and promptly pulled the Rover engine and shipped the car over as a roller. 2004 ZX3 headed engine with stage 1 cam and aluminum flywheel sourced by Caterham USA (Denver ?) rated per them at 202hp with 4 roller barrel and Percel ECU. Owner then self installed. 2016 car is sold to 2nd owner Last month sold to me and shipped to my home last Saturday, parked in front yard, and not touched till yesterday when the new driveway was cured enough to allow the car to be placed in a garage. Took me almost 15 minutes to get the car started and running well enough to warm it up, as it was outside, and slightly windy, I was not concerned that I did not hear the fuel pump kick in when I turned the ignition on. Now that it's in the garage, I'm starting to make my list of items to address,thankfully, per the seller, the oil/air filter, plugs and wires have already been done, which leaves me with fuel filter, and what I thought was a bad coil pack due to the rough running and slight hesitation/backfire, since it was sufficiently warmed up, and only driven 250-300 feet, I thought nothing of it. Was in the garage (30 degrees) for a few minutes and running things through my head, turn the key, and did not hear the relay click, nor the fuel pump cycle. Now I'm wondering if either or both are bad, and exactly what I have on my hands. Is it possible to start the car with just suction on a fuel injected engine, I'm thinking not, but every other Caterham or Birkin I have owned, I've always been able to hear the fuel pump when I turn the key and power up the circuits. So, now we are at the point where I really need assistance Fuel filter location? Fuel relay location? Electric fuel pump location (in tank perhaps)? Car was built by the assembly manual for the Rover engine, then the new Zetec engine I'm hoping was also installed per the additional Zetec assembly manual I have in the 8" thick file. Can anyone guide me as to where to start? Where to look? Thanks in advance, Bill

I'll second Intercity, but also add Horseless Carriage, and Reliable Auto Transport (orange trucks) as well. All three are business owned, with employees who take their job seriously, and are not brokers in disguise. Do not use Uship, unless you want emails and phone calls for months after your car has already been shipped and arrived at your location. Spammers and scammers galore with that site. Bill