mrmustang

Do you deliver I'll reach out in a few minutes

Perfect, thank you I guess now I need to figure out if the S3 and SV seats are the same dimensions then place a wanted post.

I have cloth seats in my 03 SV and SWMBO (not that she actually wants to sit in the car, let alone go on long drives) has requested I look into a leather seat option. Hence this thread. We are a little on the higher side of middle age, so comfort is key here (IE: Tillets are out). What options are out there for a bolt in replacement? Should we even consider a replacement (IE: These are the most comfortable and perhaps need new padding) A gratuitous picture of our current, well broken in seats below Thanks in advance for your input

In addition to the above pictures, based on what I see, your body shop will need to get the chassis up on their frame rack and take cross measurements. Expect the chassis to have a torsional twist to it that may require additional work to straighten out. I'm not throwing this out there to worry you, but as the retired body shop owner, yours will not be the first one I've laid eyes on in similar situations. Bill

Oooohoooooooooooooooooo noooooooooooooooooooo

New battery in, car fired right up, buttoned up, quick 5 mile ride as the heavy rain started to roll in across the valley. Made it back home with 5 minutes to spare. Still a little hesitation here and there, clutch pedal is softer than before I bled the system, will have to bleed again to see what is going on. Down to less then a 1/4 tank on the gauge that will be my first stop the next sunny day I can get the car back out of the garage. A little more debugging, a good vacuuming out, and a wash and buff, and the car will be ready for the summer.

Battery pulled, ETX20L (agm) and tested, bad cell., 9 years old Now waiting for replacement to get here tomorrow morning.

And the survey says, DOA battery, even after a trickle charge to full charge last night Kept meaning to pull and check it, my fault and nobody else to blame but myself. Once I'm back at the car, I'll have to check what the part number is for sizing/fitting purposes and replace it as I'm not going to reinvent the wheel at this point. Hopefully later this morning or early afternoon.

First welcome to the madness of "7" ownership. While you are doing your "baseline" of the car, I highly suggest fuel lines be replaced. My 2003 is on the tail end of my baseline, hoses, wires, belts, coil, plugs, etc, stumbled across some dry rot cracking in a small piece of fuel line that did not show up till the system was pressurized, now being swapped out for braided (personal choice) PTFE line and AN fittings. 20,000+ miles worth of fuel on at least three or four continents have passed through the original in my case, so better to be safe, than sorry. Looking forward to watching your upgrades and updates. Bill

I debated on the blue (socketless) Aeroquip line vs their braided steel line and decided that the braided line would give me that extra 10-20% of safety, at least in my mind. Sure a little extra work for the hose ends, but I've been working with this type of line and fittings for close to 40 years as a hobbyist, so what is just a few more hose ends to build. Once they are finished and mounted with the rubber coated adel clamps, I suspect I'll not have to worry about them again. Form and function, along with peace of mind is always a plus in my book, whether it is on the street, or on the track. Although, I find myself less on the track these days with any of my cars, and more on the street. Bill

Yes, replaced the entire line, although mine is (was) a combination of rubber/copper, not hard plastic. Just waiting on a M16x1.5 to -6 AN adapter for the outlet of the fuel filter, a final fit up with the addel clamps, and leak testing. After that, a quick going through to double check the throttle body balance one more time, and we are back on the road, safe for another 20,000 or so miles. I hope. Bill

With the debugging winding down, induction now balanced, brake and clutch fluids now purged/flushed, front end aligned, I'm down to the replacement of the original fuel filter to TWM fuel lines. Done due to severe cracking (dry rot or ethanol induced) of the rubber portion of the fuel line, we decided to replace with a modern fuel stable braided line. Both the main and return lines are loosely run, just awaiting the last fitting (thought I had one) for the fuel filter. Then 8-10 addel clamps, and we will be safely back on the road. Not pretty, did not show up till we put pressure to the system, scary to think what could have happened on the open road if we did not catch it ahead of time. Old line out of the car, I'll keep it in storage The start of the new lines and fittings going in, sorry I did not get a better shot. Hopefully my next set of pictures will be the car back on the road. Bill

I'm drawn more towards the 1962 Elva Mark IV

For those of us who drive our cars year round, a heater is a must for defrosting/demisting the windshield. Heat to the footboxes are like any other British designed convertible, 7, MG, Triumph, Alpine, Jag, etc.....Either you have heat from the engine, and a little circulation from the heater box fan, or you don't. Bill

Cars and Coffee this month is at Michelin, then back to Bridgeway Station next month. Uncertain what I'll bring at this time, maybe the Caterham if I get it safely back on the road by then. Bill

Sadly, saw him pull up and park, never got a chance to walk the 200 feet over to say hello before he walked away to socialize on the other side of the field. I rarely spent time by our car the whole day, so I get it. Sure we will all catch up later in the season. Bill

UglyFast was there with the Purple people eater (#1), was a nice 67 "7" parked next to him. I was at the top of the hill directly in front of the VIP tent with our 65 Sunbeam Tiger (as requested by the organizers). Most likely, at least for me, this was a one and done type of event. Strange setup, even stranger show classes, I was paired up with Iso Griffo, which was the sexiest car there in my humble opinion, a few Chrysler Crossfires, a 57 Nash, a 68 Zimmer, a custom built Alpha based roadster race car, a 91 Lamborghini, one F40, one yellow Testarossa and two 308 Ferrari's. Again, a strange setup, the BMW and Porsche groups got the prime show field, 90% late model, a few 70's, 60's, 50's for the Porsche group, 3 Morgans (two 60's, one 2008 Aero coupe), 3 vintage XKE's (two convertibles, one coupe), 4 Panteras, a bunch of Triumph motorcycles, a few Fiats, new and old. A Unimog (black and lifted, looked sinister), and a bunch of vendors.

You drive on RT422 a lot, don't you

I'll be at Eurofest (behind Hartness Hotel) with the 65 Tiger tomorrow from 8am till 4pm, stop by and we can hash out the details. Bill

What stymies me is the issue changing from one cylinder to another. Almost as if the coil was going bad, or the earlier mentioned dirt in the fuel line or fuel barrel leading to the injectors themselves. Has the drop in exhaust temp ever occurred in more then one cylinder at a time, or always just one? The typical way one cylinder runs cold is due to a misfire, bad plug, bad wire, bad coil, but again, with this being a rolling issue makes me believe a bad coil pack vs a bad injector.

I'm going to throw another one out there for you to ponder on, a potential leak in your fuel line when under pressure. My friend who is balancing the TWM throttle bodies finished the front end alignment and was taking the car out earlier today and smelled fuel. Drove it on the alignment lift and found a small leak starting in the -6 braided line. Now awaiting the new -6 line to be delivered and between the two of us will get it buttoned up. Hopefully back at the house before the end of the week.

Sounds like a fuel issue, especially if it moves from cylinder to cylinder. Dirt or air in the fuel system can do this, when is the last time you bled the system and changed the fuel filter? Then again, how old are the injectors, are they high impedance or low impedance units? The injector system you linked to seems like just the ticket for a home mechanic. Let us know how that goes. Bill

Not that specific machine, but back in the early to mid 2K's, I worked for a race shop that had one. Beautiful, stainless steel, think they paid $4,500 for it. It allowed for balancing, testing, cleaning, when you needed to wring every last portion of performance out of the engine they were being installed on.

I had a similar conversation with a fellow purchasing a TR5 from the UK this week, his concern was the same. I advised that no clarification has been made in regards to new vs used car tariffs, or if there would be specific exceptions based on physical age. To the best of my knowledge, the tariffs are based on new vehicle imports at this time, and no additional "import fees" have been levied on cars such as the TR5 at this time. Will this hold, time will tell. Bill

This is what happens when a 7 builder takes psychotropic medication