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Seven S-2 thrown rod through block


newtoit

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Major issue this weekend. Threw a rod through the side of the block on my S-2. Would like to keep engine as close to original as possible- still have original carbs and Cosworth cam cover. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks!

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Cast iron blocks are weldable, just need to find the right guy.

 

My wife's Uncle, Dick Smith, introduced me to a guy that cut up 3 four banger model T engines and made a 6 cyclinder out of the pieces. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes (the running engine in the Model T) I never would have believed it. He also cut and welded the three cranks together. All by hand, mind you.

 

Cast iron can be welded, find an old hot rodder or go to your nearest Metal Meet and ask around.

 

Tom

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It all depends on the extent of the damage - but more than likely you'll need a new block and rod (at the very minimum!).

 

A S2 would not have had a x-flow originally. The question is what displacement it was. A lot of the pre-crossflow parts, blocks, etc are becoming harder to find. Ford has started to manufacture the 1500 block again though.

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Major issue this weekend. Threw a rod through the side of the block on my S-2. Would like to keep engine as close to original as possible- still have original carbs and Cosworth cam cover. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

newtoit, these may be of interest:

 

 

Edited by xcarguy
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I would think you could find a replacement block, although I'm not sure how different the early pre-Crossflow blocks are from the later blocks. It may even be possible to use an early Crossflow block.

 

Here's a Crossflow with a patched block:

 

http://www.thekentlives.com/index.php/tech/engine/enginerebuilds#patch

 

Steve

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looks like there is a mfg. in England, Barton Power, who looks like they have new blocks for a twin cam 1500 engine. Am checking on shipping to USA. Does anyone know if the upper on the Cosworth 116E will fit this block?

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With apologies for digression: many years ago a friend threw a rod out the side of his dad's Morris Minor (BMC A-series engine, a bit too much souped up for longevity). The hole went through the skirt and neither the bore nor the oil pan flange was damaged. To keep dad happy he promised to 'repair' the engine. The hole was patched with two pieces of plywood bolted together with some kind of goop in between to keep oil in and water out. With a new rod the engine ran fine until the car finally died of salt sickness.

 

Maybe JB-weld isn't all that far-fetched, but perhaps we are a bit too upscale for anything but a replacement block. :-)

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More digression, I worked turns for many years at Road Atlanta. One particular day I was at Turn 1, out side safety and had a direct look down the front straight. Little production midgets and bugeyes were running. About the time one passed the start/finish line it erupted in flames under the car. It rolled to a halt and I put a little powder on the small fire that was still going. I could see a hole in both sides of the block the size of a softball and a bare crankshaft. Don't think JB Weld would fix that one, the cam was also junk. :ack:

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Its a ford racing block so you should be able to order it from your local ford dealer.

 

Just found it on page 95 on the ford racing catalog.

 

Kent block # M-6010-16K

Lotus block # M-6010-16L

Edited by jlumba81
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a hole 1.5 inches round. Sounds like a new block

 

Take a look at this page......http://muggyweld.com/cast-iron-block-repair. I do not have any recent experience with it, but cast iron has been repaired by many methods over the years. I did have a flathead repaired by brazing some 45 years ago. If the break/hole is in a non-stressed, non-coolant, non-oil-gallery area of the block. I don't know why it couldn't be repaired by the right shop.

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Year ago at the Formula Ford national championships you drew a lottery to pick your engine. Well there was only engine that had a name Patch, because it had poked a rod and had a plate welded on the hole. Patch was the most winning national motor in the class, everybody want to draw Patch. Nobody ever really worked out why Patch was fast, but the best guess was it had somehow stress relieved the block and it help it's shape better when hot. So don't dismiss the repair, you could name your motor and have a great talking point.

 

Graham

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Great call! Even with a new block, will attempt a repair on the original a keep it with all original stuff in it.

 

 

That's a good call. At this point, you really don't have anything to loose. Good luck with the repair and please update here with results. :cheers:

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