Caterham maintenance recommendations

[Lancefitzgiben]

Thanks Blaine!

 

I consulted with Amsoil and they've suggested their signature series 5w30. I'm an oil noob, but I do know enough to know that you're right about the zinc. I haven't studied oil specs though. What do you think of their recommendation? I'll try and get the oil swapped out soon - within the next few days.

 

As for the fuel, mixing in some unleaded race fuel probably isn't a bad idea - that being said the car lives at well over 7k ft above sea level and the first few hundred miles will be gentle. I'll see how things go.

 

- Tim

 

By the way; car showed up this morning and looks unreal! Can't wait to have a proper drive outside of the neighborhood.

[Alfonse]

I've been using DT40 racing oil. It has the zinc levels that the folks who have studied it recomment to keep the bearings alive longer in the earlier water cooled Porsches. Works great in my Birkin too.

[h=1][/h]

[Croc]

By the way; car showed up this morning and looks unreal! Can't wait to have a proper drive outside of the neighborhood.

 

 

Oh no...you cannot do that to us....we want photos to check out your new ride! :cooldude:

[Lancefitzgiben]

[Lancefitzgiben]

Took it out of the neighborhood and put a few kilometers on. Feels pretty good! I'll need to retrain my brain for the kph speedo and push button turn signals. Can't wait to get it broken in and let her rip!

[coffee break]

Now you can look for 2 lane twistys to play on. I've finally gotten the horn switch on the dash figured out.

Have a blast!!!!!

[Croc]

Thats nice! Great color.

 

 

Why have you got a kmh speedo? Caterham have the mph speedo for US cars. Or was yours sourced from an alternative sales channel?

[Lancefitzgiben]

Not sure about the speedo. Car was built at Caterham obviously and brought into the US by Hillbank.

 

Technically speaking the 480 is the US model while the 485 is for the European/Asian market. The 5 denotes the EU5 compliancy.

 

Kph speedo turned me off initially but I think in the long run it fits the car fine. If it ends up bugging me I'll swap in a MPH unit.

[Alfonse]

That is a beauty. I am sure it will be lots of fun.

[MichaelD]

15 Brightly colored dots placed properly should do it just fine.

 

Have a blast.

[Kitcat]

Love the color! Between that and the car itself, you will soon know what Oprah feels like when she goes out in public:).

[oilteq]

Thanks Blaine!

 

I consulted with Amsoil and they've suggested their signature series 5w30. I'm an oil noob, but I do know enough to know that you're right about the zinc. I haven't studied oil specs though. What do you think of their recommendation?

 

Tim

The first website to come up for me was here https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf. It says the signature 5W-30 meets API SN, which limits phosphorus to 800 ppm. So zinc is not going to be higher than 900 ppm or so. I recommend higher.

 

Zinc phosphate is what protects the cam, timing chain, and other areas where metal to metal contact occurs. If you have a racing cam, it increases the load between the cam and cam bucket. Even high rpm increases the load as the cam ramps up the valve faster.

 

I have talked with people with stock cars, British cars, muscle cars, and classic cars that had worn a couple or their cam lobes down. In each case, they had a sliding interface between the cam and lifter, and they were using a modern passenger car oil. A Diesel engine oil or racing oil would have prevented the problem.

Blaine

[Lancefitzgiben]

Blaine - thanks again. I'll deviate and get a different oil before I do the 1st oil change.

 

Do you mind helping me out a little more and suggesting a 5w50 oil (that's what Caterham recommends anyway) that would keep things safer?

 

- Tim

[oilteq]

Tim

 

I do not like compromising. The first one is anti-wear vs emissions equipment. When I saw the compression ratio and the hp, I incorrectly assumed there was no emissions equipment to worry about. Then I decided to go to the Caterham site and was surprised that it meets European emissions standards. How did they squeeze all that power out of a 2.0 liter NA engine and still meet emissions?

 

Anyway, as I mentioned earlier, phosphorus is limited in passenger car oils to prolong the life of the cat. So I am not going to tell you to ignore the manufacturers recommendation, particularly if there is a warranty involved. On the other hand, if your engine does not consume oil between changes, not much phosphorus will make it back to the cat.

 

The next compromise is 5W-50. That is a stretch, and it requires a lot of polymer (the plastic dissolved in oil to give it multi-grade capability). Polymer has a tendency to shear, so you put in a cheap 10W-40 and it drops to a 10W-30 within 200 miles.

 

Ford recommends 5W-50 in one of its super Mustang engines. I received an oil analysis report that showed it had sheared to near the bottom of the SAE 40 range, not much thicker than a 30. I jumped on a couple of Mustang forums, and that appears to be normal. I prefer less of a stretch, such as 15W-40. 20W-50 would be good for a track car, but be patient at startup.

 

If you decide to stay with Caterham’s recommendations, Google API SN 5W-50 and you will get several hits in brands you recognize. If you want more protection for your cams (screw the cat!), Google high zinc 5W-50, or whatever viscosity grade you want.

 

A diesel engine oil will have roughly 50% more zinc than a passenger car oil and may be a good choice. If you want to go that route Google API CJ-4/SN 15W-40 or API CJ-4/SN 5W-40.

 

Sorry for the long post. I know you wanted a simple answer, but when I saw the emissions equipment it became more complicated.

 

A compromise we can all agree on is to give up comfort for performance. It is why I own a se7en.

 

Blaine

[Lancefitzgiben]

Hey Blaine, thanks again. I don't mind the long post at all! I appreciate the insight actually.

 

It does indeed have a cat, which is only 02'd on the upwind side surprisingly but it won't break my heart if it gets compromised. I also don't live in an area that requires emissions checks.

 

I think I'll give some Amsoil diesel oil a shot. It meets the criteria you mention. I'll stick with the weight that they recommend I suppose. The car is primarily a street machine but will see some tracking obviously

 

Thanks again - very much

 

- Tim

[d15b7]

hi guys. mine is a xflow powered Seven with a 'hot' street motor in it (11.5:1 compression, fast road cams, ported head, steel valvetrain, dual DCOE 40s around 160 hp or so). I run the 100LL in it for fuel, and use Valvoline VR-1 non-synth race oil 20w-50. my old school engine likes this oil (plenty of zinc and protects the valvetrain). it would not be suitable for a car driven in cold weather, or one with cat converters. I don't think it has much in the way of a detergent package either, because its a race oil; but I tend to change it every 2-3 race weekends (6 hrs of run time) so that isn't much of a worry for me.

 

I also work with a BMW E30 race team that does mostly endurance races (18 hr races split into two 9 hr races per weekend mostly) and they use exclusively Rotella T 15w-40 diesel oil in all 4 of their cars. this oil is low cost, high zinc alternative to Amsoil, Redline, Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs etc race oils. they have extremely good luck with the Rotella T stuff -- typically running 300-400+ hrs before requiring rebuild (and the bearings and cams etc still look good).

Edited August 17, 2016 by d15b7