New guy. Here is my Cat

[1turbofocus]

I can build you a Zetec you would be happy with , You will need to Dyno to adjust the Cam gears and Tuning for it

 

If its in the Budget I have a Ford Racing head new in the box its full CNC Ported , I would do a set of STG2-3 Cams and Compression at about 10.0 to 10.5 for 93 Octane

 

Tom

[Vovchandr]

Just now, 1turbofocus said:

I can build you a Zetec you would be happy with , You will need to Dyno to adjust the Cam gears and Tuning for it

 

If its in the Budget I have a Ford Racing head new in the box its full CNC Ported , I would do a set of STG2-3 Cams and Compression at about 10.0 to 10.5 for 93 Octane

 

Tom

 

I'll DM you for that conversation

[MV8]

2 hours ago, Vovchandr said:

Swapped around the wires, moved around the injectors and still the same old same old. 

 

All have spark. #4 seems to run cold. Maybe a leak down test next...again. Maybe it's a cracked cylinder at the bottom of stroke and I'll never catch it. 

 

 

What were the results of the last compression test? You document everything you do and when in a little spiral bound notebook right?

 

Parts store wires are notoriously bad and don't last long.

Edited May 7, 2023 by MV8

[Vovchandr]

5 minutes ago, MV8 said:

What were the results of the last compression test? You document everything you do and when in a little spiral bound notebook right?

 

Parts store wires are notoriously bad and don't last long.

 

See the quote I'll paste below from late 2021. As you can see on the Thermal camera Cylinder #4 was cold and was a problem back then too. 

 

That was a test of both since the head gasket swap. Likely less than 500 miles on the car since then and 2 track days + tune done in mid 2022. 

 

I'll do one again soon for a sanity check but I don't expect results to be much different. 

 

  

On 9/15/2021 at 4:39 PM, Vovchandr said:

Today’s updates

 

Compression seems good

165 145 165 162. Dry test. 
 

Leakdown looked good too. 10% or less. 
 

checked for spark with a rudimentary method of a lawn mower spark tester and 3 and 4 were firing. 
 

moved the spark plug over to see if it would help cylinder 4. It did not. 
 

here is new video with thermal. Cold start

 

 

I’m likely going to try to play with cam timing next. Reading up on retarding the intake cam 5? 10? Degrees and see if that helps. 
 

Stock zetec is non interference. No idea if my cam work changed that. I don’t believe it would as to best of my knowledge it’s a stock Ford cam that has been ground and the lash caps compensate for work. Worst case scenario is a hard stop and messaging KitKat about his block?…

 

Edited May 7, 2023 by Vovchandr

[MV8]

I'd install the NGKs. Otherwise, it sounds like a cam/valvetrain issue.

[Vovchandr]

1 hour ago, MV8 said:

I'd install the NGKs. Otherwise, it sounds like a cam/valvetrain issue.

 

These are on order now. They are nationally back ordered in places. RockAuto had them

[Vovchandr]

Here is the new scribe mark for the raceline oil pan with 5L. Right through "L" on "full"

 

 

[Alex-Ks1]

dont know if your cold cylinder prob is fixed, but did you ever check the fuel system,, A lean cylinder will run hot, a wet one will be less in temperature 

If its EFI , it could be squirting wrong ,  and not set a code.   I have seen this before 

Edited May 8, 2023 by Alex-Ks1

[Vovchandr]

44 minutes ago, Alex-Ks1 said:

dont know if your cold cylinder prob is fixed, but did you ever check the fuel system,, A lean cylinder will run hot, a wet one will be less in temperature 

If its EFI , it could be squirting wrong ,  and not set a code.   I have seen this before 

 

Its likely wet and dumping fuel. I run rich, cylinder runs cold and I have an off hard throttle issue where I think cylinder(s) gets washed out for a few seconds and car stumbles. 

 

However I swapped injectors over today and the misfire didn't follow. If there is a fuel system issue on a single cylinder I'm not sure where it's coming from. I don't think when the standalone accounts for individual injector firings where one could be set different but could be wrong. 

 

My worst fear is swapping the motor and the issue remaining due to it being ECU or accessorie (fuel/ITB) related. 

 

If there is some other issue that can cause ombalane between cylinders fuel wise I'm all ears. ITBs were rebuild by the company recently and they redid the FPR. I could try putting old one back? Otherwise I'm getting 40psi on rail. 

Edited May 8, 2023 by Vovchandr

[Alex-Ks1]

pressure seems good, but you can still have an injector problem  instead of a fine mist it may be a stream of fuel. still if you switched injectors  and wires and plugs and still have this problem, then . happy rebuild 

 a quick test of an injector is to pull  the fuel rail off the motor with the injectors still on and good fuel pressure. use 2 tiny test jumpers, one to 12 volts one to Neg ,un pluged from that injector , nothing will squirt with power on,  Brake the Neg wire and it will squirt . see how it looks,  a fine mist is what you want, a stream is bad . It will continue to squirt until you reconnect Neg wire , then it will stop also, you can put your test light on the harness to that injector , un plug it from that injector, if it flashes on off on off real fast then the computer is working , if a;ll that looks good, then ,,, happy rebuild    

remember the injector will pulse only when Neg is removed, that happens in the ECM 

[MV8]

I don't see a fuel issue.

I don't have experience with every injector out there but generally, injectors are powered open, not closed. Never short an injector across a car battery for more than a split second if it is high resistance/impedance; not at all if testing a high performance, low resistance/impedance injector. Use a 9 volt to pulse injectors open for testing or cleaning to limit current.

A typical wiring arrangement is full battery voltage to one injector terminal with grounding controlled by transistors in the computer. High and low impedance injectors are not interchangeable on the same computer due to the low impedance injector acting as a short through the computer transistors.

It is true that a test light can be used on the injector connector to see if the computer is pulse grounding, but the tester needs to be an led type, not an incandescent bulb to prevent damaging the computer from too much current.

Edited May 8, 2023 by MV8

[Vovchandr]

43 minutes ago, MV8 said:

I don't see a fuel issue.

I don't have experience with every injector out there but generally, injectors are powered open, not closed. Never short an injector across a car battery for more than a split second if it is high resistance/impedance; not at all if testing a high performance, low resistance/impedance injector. Use a 9 volt to pulse injectors open for testing or cleaning to limit current.

A typical wiring arrangement is full battery voltage to one injector terminal with grounding controlled by transistors in the computer. High and low impedance injectors are not interchangeable on the same computer due to the low impedance injector acting as a short through the computer transistors.

It is true that a test light can be used on the injector connector to see if the computer is pulse grounding, but the tester needs to be an led type, not an incandescent bulb to prevent damaging the computer from too much current.

 

You're just a wealth of knowledge 

 

NGK's are on the way. In meantime I'll keep master minding and thinking of more ways to partition/narrow down the issue

Edited May 8, 2023 by Vovchandr

[Vovchandr]

Took only about 3 years but now I'm weather resistant! 

 

Ordered tonneau in 2020 and between everything else going on was reluctant to be punching holes and making it fit. 

 

 

In the end with the right tools wasn't too bad at all

 

 

[Vovchandr]

Out with the old. In with the new. 

 

Started doing the headlight move down to lower brackets and already despising the job. 

 

With that said the front sway bar has to be unbolted and since my boots were falling apart I already had replacements in stock

 

 

[Vovchandr]

[Vovchandr]

Headlight swap is giving me headaches.

 

The wiring that should be working as is, isn't and I'm trying to retrace what's what. 

 

The carbon fiber headlight buckets dont have a good way to secure the headlight assembly in place like the metal ones did so I'm going to end up using Sikaflex to secure the headlight to the ring and likely drill 2 or 3 holes and tap screws in there to secure them. 

[Vovchandr]

New oil pressure gauge looking good

 

Now just have to swap the rest of lights on dash to match the brightness 

 

 

[MV8]

I see the new gauge is back lit led where the others are flood lit. I fit leds to replace the bulbs and provide a more white light. The led replacements are polarity sensitive so they only work when plugged in one way. Should have a number on the bulb you can cross reference. The leds are not dimmable.

Edited May 21, 2023 by MV8

[IamScotticus]

What oil pressures are you expecting?

Edited May 21, 2023 by IamScotticus

[Vovchandr]

1 hour ago, IamScotticus said:

What oil pressures are you expecting?

 

Don't know but I hope to see the needle move up a bit and be in direct ration with the revs.

 

Old gauge barely moved during regular use and started to freak me out on the highway when it would ready 0 or near 0 for prolonged periods of time late last season. 

 

I've send the oil out to Blackstone in the meantime. 

 

Running the soft line was a huge PITA I'll say that. Maybe I should switch to some sort of braided connection is the results are good and I keep this gauge.

 

6 hours ago, MV8 said:

I see the new gauge is back lit led where the others are flood lit. I fit leds to replace the bulbs and provide a more white light. The led replacements are polarity sensitive so they only work when plugged in one way. Should have a number on the bulb you can cross reference. The leds are not dimmable.

 

Turns out its a very obscure light bulb. K5632. Looking at options now.