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Won't start


wemtd

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My engine decided to stop running yesterday (seemed to stall at a stop sign). Wouldn't start. No luck with jumper cables. Appeared to have no spark.

Today i checked and i'm seeing increased 'miss counter' which seems to be a lack of Home signals registering. I swapped out a different camshaft (and crank) sensor to no avail.

Am i correct to think the problem is likely in the wires for camshaft sensor->ecu. or should i be looking elsewhere?

 

thanks :banghead:

Edited by wemtd
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Nor sure it is relevant..but here is my experience with Haltech..I had a generation 1 haltech on my mgb gt that had a 3.4L 60 degree gm v6 in it...car would run great until I ran it for protracted periods on hot summer days...for this reason I always carried my laptop with me to reset the program...I would pull off the road when it began running very rough...hook up the laptop and reset the the program..heat soak was the culprit...best I can offer...sorry

full disclosure..this was @ 18 years ago...

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Update: still won’t start. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

- I’ve spent a little time this week on the phone & plugged in with tech support chasing down gremlins.

I’m still waiting for a replacement part to arrive... With any luck it will arrive on time and get my engine running again.

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She runs again :auto:

- We traced the problem back to a likely malfunctioning ignition module. The module I arranged to have overnighted to me arrived yesterday; without the module... Phone calls and canceled plans later the part they were supposed to send finally arrived and has fixed the problem.

 

Hooray!

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She runs again :auto:

- We traced the problem back to a likely malfunctioning ignition module. The module I arranged to have overnighted to me arrived yesterday; without the module... Phone calls and canceled plans later the part they were supposed to send finally arrived and has fixed the problem.

 

Hooray!

 

Good news Paul!

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  • 1 month later...

ADDENDUM:

The haltech ignition module gave up the ghost and died last month. In hindsight I suspect this was gradually failing and the root cause for my troubles at the annual usa7s trackday. Facing a re-tune: upgraded camshafts were called for, and once installed the engine felt happier even before re-tuning.

After a long chilly drive yesterday (with wet return home) the car is once again running smoothly and better than ever!

Many thanks to Alex at Granite State Dyno in NH fitting me in before the snow this week :party:

Cams increased hp & torque by 20 points each; unfortunately upgrading driver quality will take more work.

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Hey Croc.

 

My rebuilt engine is an Ford Zetec SVT and Paul has the newer Ford Duratec. A SVT's power typically is about half way between a standard Zetec's 128 hp, 116 torque and the newer Duratec.

 

My original SVT engine made around 162-ish hp, 142-ish torque, per my ever faltering memory. When I had my Duratec powered Birkin it made 165 hp and 148 Torque, as I recall. I'd love to have Paul's hp#'s, tho the dyno "grand prix" can be pretty meaningless. I remember Michael D's Zetec dynod at 220 hp, but I could always stay right with him on the straight at Lightening in my SVT. Tho, I have a 6 sp., and he had a 5 sp., so gearing wasn't identical.

 

The Zetec SVT seems to offer a lot less potential for power than the Duratec which is a better foundation for power increases (It breaths better, spins faster, and I think it is lighter).

 

My rebuilt SVT makes much less than my original SVT (I recently had it base- lined at the nearby chassis dyno shop), BUT, it has yet to be tuned by its builder, 1TurboFocus, aka, TurboTom. He tuned my original SVT with good results. That task on the rebuilt motor is getting closer to the top of my things to do list. I expect (hope?) the result will be similar to the original SVT engine's, but it wont scare Paul.

Edited by Kitcat
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