Radiator fan switch question

[coffee break]

I could use some help identifying the radiator fan switch on my 1600 crossflow. Last time out the water temp was above what it should be. Coolant level was good.

Suggested vendor?

 

Thanks y'all

Edited June 18, 2020 by coffee break

[Anker]

I don't believe the sensor is the problem. The real problem is the piddly fan that I had on my crossflow before replacing it with a modern one. It was behind the radiator, small diameter and a huge gap between the fan and the radiator. It was pretty useless at pulling air through the radiator with the car sitting still. My new fan sits in front of the radiator, has a shroud that prevents the air from leaking sideways around the radiator, had a bigger diameter, but uses the same relay to turn on and off. It turns on a little under 200 degrees and turns off when the temperature falls to about 185. Works like a charm.

[xcarguy]

I could use some help identifying the radiator fan switch on my 1600 crossflow. Last time out the water temp was above what it should be. Coolant level was good.

Suggested vendor?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17180[/ATTACH]

Thanks y'all

 

Start with these guys and see if they can lead you down the right path.

 

http://www.autoteccomponents.com/radiator-fan-switches

[coffee break]

In the past the fan has keeped the coolant temp at 85c. I jumped the wires that go to the switch and the fan came on. I guess I'll boil the switch and see what the multimeter tells me.

[coffee break]

I confirmed the function of the fan switch. It closes around 190F. I picked up two new thermostats to replace the existing one. The suggested one is a 180F and the alternate is 160F. Any down sides to going with the lower temp part?

[Anker]

Where do you get the fan switches. Mine is also 190 degrees, and that's too high. I don't mind purchasing both a 180 and a 160 degree. I suspect 180 is fine.

 

Anker

[fastg]

Never seen a 160, pegasus racing dot CV k thg hff e high quality Setrab brand

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=SETRABSWITCH

[JohnCh]

160F seems awfully low. If working correctly, that would keep the temps in the 150s or possibly lower. The 180F (82C) seems like a much better choice. If you are still having issues after that, Anker has good advice. All fans aren't created equal (current draw is a decent proxy for effectiveness) and keeping minimal clearance between fan and rad core (+ shroud) increases efficiency. Are your temp issues just in traffic, or are you also having high temps at speed? If the latter, make sure you have shrouding that ensures the air entering the nosecone is actually funneled through the radiator rather than around it.

 

-John

[coffee break]

I removed the existing thermostat and it is marked "180". I think I will install the new one of the same value.

The fan switch is a puzzle, not much on the markings. The OD of the thread is .859" and the thread gauge that fits it best is 18 TPI. The threads are not tapered as pipe threads are.

I'm thinking about adding an override switch I can use to turn on the fan if the elevated temps reoccur.

[JohnCh]

I'd say it's metric given M22 is nearly that size (0.866"), but that thread pitch is really fine for something that big. I've found this page helpful in the past when trying to figure if something is BSP, NPS, or Metric: https://trimantec.com/blogs/t/thread-identification-guide

 

-John

[The Stig]

I replaced that switch with this inline unit in the top hose. Main benefit is that it’s adjustable for temperature.

 

https://www.revotec.com/acatalog/Electronic-Fan-Controller-Hose-Fitting.html

[Anker]

I just bought a 180 degree switch from Pegasus https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=10284 with a M22 adapter so it can replace the original https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=28243

[coffee break]

The Pegasus set-up looks good. I will need to see if my car has a fan relay or if the switch directly controls the 15A fan circuit.

 

Thanks Anker

[coffee break]

It's not a 3 minute egg but I've been boiling parts. The radiator fan switch closes around 190F. The switch has four number groupings stamped on the flat surface. One of the numbers is 92, I would guess that is for 92C.

I did a side by side test with the installed thermostat and the new out of the box 180F unit. The new part opened around 182F and the old one around 185F and did not open as much as the new unit.

So, in with the new and figure out a manual override to be over cautious.

[fastg]

Don't forget the actual temperature at the sensor will depend where the sensor is located. On my engine the ECU temp sensor is in the back of the cylinder head. The fan sensor is in the return line to the top of the radiator, there is often a 15 degree difference.

 

Graham