1993 SuperSprint Valve stem oil seals

[Tony]

Been having puffs of oil smoke at idle when tapping the gas pedal.  Read that the valve stem oil seals were probably worn.

Talked to an expert about the SuperSprint engine who said it was usually a valve guide problem.

Tony Weale's 7 Restoration Guide shows the valve stem oil seals, but not the guides on the Kent Ford engine.

Heard also that the Burton replacements were too tight.

Has anyone replaced these, were they effective in reducing the smoke?

Part # and Source?

Would rather start with an easy replacement before pulling the head.

 

Thanks,

 

Tony 

[Anker]

The seals that Caterham installed are junk! I had smoke from my car when starting and lifting. I pulled the head and replaced the valve seals and that cured the problem. It is easy to replace the seals and check they are the problem.

 

Getting the correct seals is a real issue, there are two thicknesses of valve steams and guides and you have to get the correct ones. I needed the narrow ones, with valve stems  The ones I ordered from Burton Power are SKU: FP705A "Valve stem oil seal (each) - suitable for duplex valve springs: Ford X/Flow OHV Kent, pre-X/Flow & BDA FP705A". The critical dimension is 10.57 mm diameter on the valve guide.

 

Be careful if you try to remove the valves from the head. They will probably not glide through the guides because the spring retainers will have expanded the slotted part of the valve stem. You will need to use emory paper to sand them down to a diameter that allows them to glide easily through the guides.

 

Do yourself a favor and order from Burton power. I have 5 sets of incorrect seals that I ordered from other vendors!

 

Good luck/Anker 

[Tony]

Looks like I am headed for a valve job on the head.  Probably the best route.  Thank you for the detailed information!

Tony

[Origin7]

Has anyone replaced the valve seals with the head on? Trying to gain a better understanding of what's involved. 

 

 

[11Budlite]

I've done it before using compressed air and it was pretty simple. You have to have the cylinder you're working on at TDC on the compression stroke and use shop air to keep the valves seated. I use the adapter from my compression tester to pressurize the cylinder. Then it's just a matter of using a valve spring compressor to remove the collets/retainers/valve springs to gain access to the valve stem seal. Others have used a suitably sized rope inserted thru the spark plug hole to hold the valves in place instead of shop air. Just do one cylinder at a time making sure that the cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke with both valves completely closed. It's been a while since I've done this job so I might be forgetting something. 

[7Westfield]

fairly easy job

 

I've also got an adapter I made years ago, by knocking the guts out of an old spark plug, and welding on a quick disconnect to match my air hoses

[Origin7]

That sounds quite manageable, and much easier than taking the head off. Looks like I'll be going after this as soon as the seals come in from Burton. Hopefully, they are the right ones 

[IamScotticus]

These are umbrella seals and are intended to ride the stem up and down so the necessary amount of oil lubricates the stem.

This is a good time to check lateral valve stem movement.

If it wiggles, you may need valve guides.

 

More than helpful...