fastg Posted August 5, 2022 Share Posted August 5, 2022 Great work. One point, I am not sure if you have done this or not, it's tough to tell from the pictures. If you have a bolt that is going north south, in line with the car. You put the head of the bolt forward pointing towards the front of the car. The logic is any debris will be coming from front to back. With the bolt pointing forward the head of the bolt will be damaged not the thread. You can work with a damaged head of a bolt, but if the thread or nut is damaged it can be much more difficult to remove. The devil is in the detail. Another point, I would not use hardware store bolts in high stress applications. I have had a few break over the years. Plus the plating on the hardware is always crappy so they look bad after a short period of time. Do I use hardware store bolts, yes to keep the project going. But if it's high stress it's soon replaced with a quality piece. I had a alternator bolt just snap this sprint, lost the belt and took out the coolant temp sensor. Almost wrecked a track day. Luckily I found the kart repair shop and the mechanic was very helpful getting me back on the road. I use https://www.mcmaster.com/ Huge outfit, all parts on stock there shipping is amazing, consistently the fasted shipping I have ever come across. They claim something like 2 millions parts in stock. Also have a SolidWorks interface, so you can suck any parts into a CAD design. I used to live near the warehouse in Chicago, just massive facility. Not the cheapest but industrial quality parts. Graham 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted August 7, 2022 Author Share Posted August 7, 2022 Quick Jack time After installing the diff during the week I noticed that my rear stand was starting to feel the weight. In fact for the last few days I had wooden 2x4s propping up at the back to stop it from buckling. I was always planning to put the chassis on quick jacks at some point but figured it would be once I had wheels on it. Anyway, with the help of a couple of neighbours we lifted the car off the stands and onto the more stable platform. Here are the jacking points I chose, anyone see any issues? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted August 7, 2022 Author Share Posted August 7, 2022 Rear loom With the weather reaching 40C with thunderstorms here this weekend, venturing outside doesn't seem to be too appealing. It been in the 30Cs for weeks, but this just takes the biscuit! As much as I said I wanted to take time away, I truely have the "build bug" at the moment so I'm moving on with anything I can while waiting for my wishbone bolts. Today I decided to fit and trim the rear loom. Those that have been following my thread will remember that I started my build by stripping and sorting the old MX5 loom. Well, I'm glad I did 'cos I found laying out the rear loom quite relaxing. The route past the diff. I managed to add the extra wires using the donor loom, but still need to add a few more (Handbrake switch, 3rd stop light and the rear fog light). I used some painters tape to leave myself reminders. I couldn't seem to find the rear fog light wire from the donor...weird!! Once I have new wires in I'll remove the loom and start taping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted August 8, 2022 Share Posted August 8, 2022 After you have completed all the wiring, you need to check the complete system. Start by installing each fuse one at a time. If you don’t have a master cutoff switch, then leave the battery clamp loose so it can be quickly pulled if there is a direct short. Once you have verified that the individual circuit is OK, then move on to the next fuse. Once very fuse is installed and all the circuits are checked, including the engine instruments, then go back and rap the harness with wiring split tube or plastic spiral rap and attach the harness to the frame with “P” clips. If your budget allows, you might want to look at wrap around braided sleeving from, cabletiesandmore.com supplier if you want an upscale look. I would not use tape to wrap the complete wiring harness, because it will be PITA to trace or change any of the wires if you do have a problem, or later want to add a new circuit. In fact, you should consider adding extra wires to both the rear and front wire bundles. lt made life much easier when later I added an air horn. Add the extra wire color codes to your notes or schematic for later reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted August 8, 2022 Author Share Posted August 8, 2022 Thanks for the electric tech tips Dave. Appreciated! 👍🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S1Steve Posted August 8, 2022 Share Posted August 8, 2022 Dan, I’ve been getting on this forum daily to see your progress. I appreciate your knowledge and attention to the details. As soon as it’s road ready, all the pain in the ass problem’s will fade.. Thanks for sharing your build…. Enjoy.. Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted September 15, 2022 Author Share Posted September 15, 2022 Thanks @S1Steve. So, it's been just over a month since my last post! How time flies! I took a short break from the build to enjoy the last of the summer with the family before the kids went back to school. First we went down to Nova Scotia for some sea air and fresh lobster and then I flew back to England for a family wedding and catch up with some friends. The kids are now back at school and apart from some household chores and repairs I hope to be back on the build within a week or so! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted October 6, 2022 Author Share Posted October 6, 2022 So I'm finally back in the garage this week after nearly two months away from the build. The rest has been good, but tuning into where I was before I stopped has taken me a couple of evenings (Just staring! 🤪). The first thing I tackled was finishing off the rear control arms and knuckles. If you recall I had trouble fitting the bolt and had to saw it in half. Well, I managed to get some replacement bolts (and a reamer to clean out the bushing) and then the assembly went together like butter. I'll trim off the excess length once its all torqued down. Once the assembly was together I could then move on to the discs, calipers and pads. Question..... When are builders typically adding brake fluid to the system? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin David Posted October 6, 2022 Share Posted October 6, 2022 1 hour ago, DanM said: Question..... When are builders typically adding brake fluid to the system? When you can bleed it. Which might be *after* the parking brake goes in... which is pretty late in the Caterham process. The risk is that if you have to open a sealed system, you have to basically dump 1-2qts of fluid to bleed it again. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted October 6, 2022 Author Share Posted October 6, 2022 (edited) Today I spent some time on my engine to start getting it ready for install. First, I rerouted the oil cooler coolant hose. Normally this would connect to the coolant neck, however because I installed a coolant reroute kit I deleted the neck and decided to connect the hose to my G19 water pump inlet. The water pump inlet has a 18mm threaded port that enables you to connect a hose. I bought a Earl hose end from vividracing.com. https://www.vividracing.com/-p-152784447.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI64Cl492m-gIVGHyGCh3PEAiOEAsYBSABEgKanvD_BwE Hose end installed on the G19 inlet. ...and then ran a new length of hose from the cooler to the inlet. Edited October 6, 2022 by DanM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted October 6, 2022 Author Share Posted October 6, 2022 Header wrap As my donor car was missing it's exhaust manifold heat shield I decided I was going to wrap them. Partially for aesthetics and partially to help reduce the heat under the hood. First things first I needed to tidy up the headers a little by tapping the holes and installing new bolts. Next, because I am installing a wideband O2 sensor, I needed to plug up the OEM O2 sensor bung. Instead of welding a plug I bought a threaded one instead. The O2 sensor bung also needed tapping. The finished item ready for wrapping.... After a bit of research I decided to use the DEI Titanium wrap in grey. It only came with 4 short clips so I needed to by extra. As this was the first time I had ever wrapped an exhaust I took it slow and steady. I was really surprised how soft and pliable this stuff was and after a few short minutes I had the first pipe completed and temporarily held in place with a zip tie. The finished product. The only thing remaining was to seat a new gasket and install it on the engine. Happy Days! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 Steering Column mods So while I'm waiting for some gearbox seals to arrive, I thought I'd have a go at modifying the Miata upper steering column. The manual says to remove the lower mounting bracket and welds. So out came the angle grinder and I went to work. Followed by some bench grinding.... ....and some hand filing to get it smooth(ish). Once I was happy, I cleaned it up, repacked the bearings with grease and gave it a coat of paint. Unfortunately, I'm missing the U-bolts from my kit so couldn't install in the column. But, for fun I decided to temporarily fit it in place..... Question: I know these columns don't fit straight, but is this a little excessive? Westfield SDV builders please chime in!! ....and with the donor steering wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted October 13, 2022 Author Share Posted October 13, 2022 Gearbox Today I started to give my gearbox a bit of attention. I have no plans to do an overhaul, but I at least wanted to refresh some seals etc., and put in some new plugs. First up, change out the front and rear seals and gasket with genuine Mazda parts. New rear seal Front seal and Gasket. The donor had a thick layer of silicone instead of the OEM paper gaskets....I hope it was just laziness. All greased, ready for the clutch fork and a new throw-out bearing And finally new oil drain and filler plugs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 Now is the time to drill the plug for safety wire, before the trans is installed and filled with oil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastg Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 I would recommend this Red Line oils https://flyinmiata.com/products/redline-mtl-synthetic-gear-oil?_pos=4&_sid=869072710&_ss=r Graham 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPG Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 11 minutes ago, fastg said: I would recommend this Red Line oils https://flyinmiata.com/products/redline-mtl-synthetic-gear-oil?_pos=4&_sid=869072710&_ss=r Graham I'd definitely second using redline. I used their MT-90 in my Miata 5-speed box. It feels way better than anything else I've tried. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted October 13, 2022 Author Share Posted October 13, 2022 @MPG @fastg Thanks for the recommendation. I just bought some Royal Purple 75W-90 from Canadian tire. Do you know how this compares? I haven’t opened them yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin David Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 Redline is the go-to recommendation, but Royal Purple is also respected. Honestly for a NA car with half the weight, you probably won't be putting too much load on that geartrain so pretty much anything will be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 (edited) Looks like the pedal box flanges are too far outboard, which put the box too far outboard, which suggested making the hole too far, etc. It looks like Westy put the flanges on based on a right hand drive dimensions. You said they didn't provide the top panel a few posts back. Maybe that is why? Ask Westy for the dimensions on where the rails should be on the chassis to confirm. I hope I am wrong. Take a pic of your foot well showing pedal lateral clearance. On other westy mx5 sevens, there should be an exhaust type U bolt clamp for the lower column. Between it and the upper mount should have the steering equidistant to the dash hoop on each side of the steering wheel. I don't know about anything special for an SV. Good pick about half way down the page: https://kitskitcar.wordpress.com/page/2/ Edited October 13, 2022 by MV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted October 13, 2022 Author Share Posted October 13, 2022 5 hours ago, MV8 said: Good pick about half way down the page: https://kitskitcar.wordpress.com/page/2/ Thank You, I will check it out. I'm also getting input from the UK forum. Seems like it is a "Feature" of the Westfield builds LHD and RHD! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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