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420R in Virginia


sainthoo

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On 5/18/2022 at 10:20 AM, Austin David said:

I'll just (some day...) bend the float.  No other plans to change the fuel delivery or otherwise further complicate things.

Just bent mine down today (definitely need the lock ring tool to remove component).
 

Probably got close: had 4+ gallons in tank- gauge reads about 1/2 full now. It had been reading about 1/8, didn’t bend it much, maybe 4-5 degrees.

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30 minutes ago, KnifeySpoony said:

What's the issue with speed sensor?

 

Bleed the brakes more... Did you go in correct order and try tapping/other tips etc?

It reads at every tooth (light comes on), good electrical connections. But, Speedo shows nothing.

 

Josh informs me they had a run of bad resistors in the dash, so I will check that next.

 

Yes, went in order. Bled them a ton. I will drive, bed the bakes as best I can when I get my plates/registration- Josh says to give it 50-75 miles then bleed again, usually works for him.

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What is your speedo sensor gap? Can you take a pic? I have found the alignment being off can make a difference. I dremeled my mounting hole in order to align a little better.

 

re: bleeding - yes a rebleed after a drive often does the trick. How soft is the pedal right now?

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I'd make sure the push rod and pedal are adjusted to have a small amount of free play felt at the pedal pad to ensure the master piston is fully unloaded, leave the cap loose, fit a clear vinyl hose to loop above the caliper then down to a jar with a vacuum port, use a hand pump to pull the vacuum on the jar to over 10 inches, then crack the bleeder enough for large bubbles, bleeding the rear corners first. I go around a couple times with no pedal movement required, ensuring the level never gets too low in the master reservoir.

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21 minutes ago, KnifeySpoony said:

What is your speedo sensor gap? Can you take a pic? I have found the alignment being off can make a difference. I dremeled my mounting hole in order to align a little better.

 

re: bleeding - yes a rebleed after a drive often does the trick. How soft is the pedal right now?

I will check everything again and check dashboard the next time I get back in the garage.

 

Right now, pedal is “okay.” Brakes work enough.

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28 minutes ago, sainthoo said:

Yes, went in order. Bled them a ton. I will drive, bed the bakes as best I can when I get my plates/registration- Josh says to give it 50-75 miles then bleed again, usually works for him.

 

I had to use a power bleeder and a lot of pressure (like 100#) to get through some sort of bubble in the rear line.  Even now, by feel, they seem softer than I'd expect, but they felt better after bedding.  And they definitely stop the car, and modulate well once I take up any slack.  I'll flush them later this year when I get bored some weekend.

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1 hour ago, sainthoo said:

I didn’t like electronics before this project, and this has done nothing to improve my disposition toward them.

 

It's all magic and voodoo.  Sounds like you got a weird config delivered, and once that was sorted you're in a good place.

 

You gonna bring it out to deals' gap to meet me and Jimmy in October?

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10 minutes ago, Austin David said:

 

It's all magic and voodoo.  Sounds like you got a weird config delivered, and once that was sorted you're in a good place.

 

You gonna bring it out to deals' gap to meet me and Jimmy in October?

(Cocks head to side, raises eyebrow)- what is that?
I am generally up for an adventure, but that could be a tough time with my most idiotic hobby:

 

Spec E46:

2A822261-B5E6-407B-9509-AE6E0E10F313.thumb.jpeg.2fc4bf70873e010d6fb61a05b7451b25.jpeg

 

and

 

Ginetta G56 GTA:

6AAAC043-6515-48AE-B1B1-F77C77001726.thumb.jpeg.d781618b3983e5f72867289e2df62537.jpeg

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For anyone looking at LED options.

 

I used these bulbs as a direct replacement, and I replaced/will replace with clear lenses.

822DEE36-EB6D-4FC0-A070-AC5C41CE7481.thumb.jpeg.abd7fd6080e1bdcb66e436406e9f95c6.jpeg


I also used these for the headlights:

E38425FD-FA16-481A-9FB8-B6B06061C761.thumb.jpeg.c50164ee319b51e5872be5cd78260ac0.jpeg

Getting on the dust covers required a little bit of effort, but direct plug and play for Halogen 9003.

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49 minutes ago, sainthoo said:

Ginetta G56 GTA:

6AAAC043-6515-48AE-B1B1-F77C77001726.thumb.jpeg.d781618b3983e5f72867289e2df62537.jpeg

 

Hm.  I'll have to look that up.  A neighbor has an old (60s?) Ginetta, but it's a little smaller than that.

 

Jimmy and I are talking bout a ride to TN/NC to look at trees and bendy roads for a day or so.  Eyeballing a map, I think you're a ~1/2 day away, same a us (give or take).  Drive out one afternoon, overnight #1, ride around for a day, overnight #2, then home on the 3rd day.

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35 minutes ago, sainthoo said:

For anyone looking at LED options.

 

I used these bulbs as a direct replacement, and I replaced/will replace with clear lenses.

822DEE36-EB6D-4FC0-A070-AC5C41CE7481.thumb.jpeg.abd7fd6080e1bdcb66e436406e9f95c6.jpeg

 

 

Is that for the tail lights or the front signals?  What PN should I look for?  I've been thinking about re-rigging the front-facing signal lights for dual running/signal service.

 

I opted for the LED headlamps, they're fantastic :)

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27 minutes ago, Austin David said:

 

Is that for the tail lights or the front signals?  What PN should I look for?  I've been thinking about re-rigging the front-facing signal lights for dual running/signal service.

 

I opted for the LED headlamps, they're fantastic :)

You can go to Carquest - there are direct replacement options in store for both tail lights (2 filament: 1157 bulb) and front/rear signals (1 filament: 1156?) (can’t recall part numbers).

 

Here is the tail light (2 filament) replacement package:

2D824D43-35B8-4232-BABA-0A6F7BA62E72.thumb.jpeg.5c158b311ba0a3dd61bcb9ad0c2b4a6f.jpeg

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14 hours ago, sainthoo said:

Any advice on speed sensor or getting brake pedal more firm- I’m all ears.

 

Josh's description on what to do with the brakes - i.e. bed them in over 100 miles and rebleed is the right one.  If after that you find them not as firrm as you would like then you can upgrade to the race master cylinder which does improve pedal feel considerably.  

 

Congratulations on finishing the build!    :party:   

 

When is your first track day?  :classic_cool:

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On 6/1/2022 at 6:50 AM, Croc said:

Josh's description on what to do with the brakes - i.e. bed them in over 100 miles and rebleed is the right one.  If after that you find them not as firrm as you would like then you can upgrade to the race master cylinder which does improve pedal feel considerably.  

 

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/master-cylinder/601-brake-master-cylinder-lhd-csr-no-reservoir.html

 

this one?

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No not that one - thats the standard master cylinder for a CSR.  

 

I cannot see the race master cylinder for de dion cars on the parts website but you can call and and ask for it.  

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Another option is through Beachman Racing http://www.beachmanracing.com/master-cylinder if you select S3/SV and Uprated.  I spent a few minutes looking for a direct source but the actual part is an AP Racing part, box picture with P/N attached.  I'm sure your favorite Caterham parts supplier can provide it if you ask for the uprated master though.

 

I will note the same thing I note every time pedal feel comes up, I had significantly more improvement by switching to the race master cylinder cap (http://www.beachmanracing.com/brake-master-cylinder-cap-race , AP Racing P/N CP2709-21) than I did by switching to an uprated master cylinder, although both are good.

image.jpeg

PXL_20220603_163051375.jpg

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Given the supply chain issues at the moment and AP's long lead times (Westfield's parts dept. just announced they are dropping the Westfield verion of this MC from their catalog because of this), if Bruce has that part in stock, I'd snap it up.  It's about $40 more than Caterham charges at current conversion rates, but there is no need to pay international shipping charges or wait an indeterminant amount of time for it to leave England or vacation in customs.

 

-John

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