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Mating Transmission to Engine, need tips and tricks


TexasDreamer

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In the process of changing the clutch in my Crossflow with a T9 transmission. New clutch is installed on the flywheel. Now I can't get the transmission mated to the engine. The plastic clutch tool inserts fairly easily. It's certainly not loose but it goes in and out with no issue. The transmission mated up with the bell housing is removed so I know it can work. It took some (well a fair amount) of futsing to get the shaft lined up and a push, but it went in smoothly. I'm using the engine crane to position the transmission. Sometimes I have positioned the trans a little low with the crane and picked it up in my hands. Lots of wiggling. I am using the gap between the bell housing and the back of the block to gauge alignment: making the gap equal all the way around. After an hour and a half of trying, no success. Feels like this should have been done in about 10 minutes. Any tips or tricks? Thanks in advance.

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Sometimes it can be real tricky and sometimes they just slip into place.  I just had a struggle putting my motor in. Your right to try and align it as best you can by sight, using the gap around the bell housing and the bell housing bolts to try and get it as aligned as you can. Sometime twisting the trans helps, as can putting the trans in gear and turning the output shaft. You might want to check the clutch as the right spline in the middle, I always slide the plate onto the trans input shaft just to make sure they fit. You can probably look at the alignment plug and make sure it looks right and had the right number of splines. Don't be tempted to use force as it will just end in tears:)

 

Graham  

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your doing this with engine in car?

I can come by and lend my engine stands if you like. it may be easier out of the car.

 

rotating the shaft sounds like a plan.

 

Also, there are clutch centering tools that clamp against the splines that may be more reliable than the common spline tool.

Edited by IamScotticus
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I had no luck with the plastic alignement tool, it simply was not tight enough to really align the clutch. 


I now use a cut off splined tip of an old T9 input shaft as my alignment tool.

 

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45 minutes ago, Rosteri said:

I had no luck with the plastic alignement tool, it simply was not tight enough to really align the clutch. 


I now use a cut off splined tip of an old T9 input shaft as my alignment tool.

 

good to know,thx

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I think if you got them on a flat level surface,  have the shaft axis alignment,  a bubble level on the T9 cover, and rocker cover,  you should be able to slide them together.  if not, re-align the clutch disc again.

Edited by IamScotticus
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I use the headless bolt method whenever possible. It takes the weight of the gearbox, so that you can deal with getting the shaft in without dealing with the load. You can move the box a fair amount on those studs. Definitely need to be able to rotate the shaft.

 

don't forget the dab of grease in the pilot bearing 

 

Edited by 7Westfield
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Since everything is still on the floor, you could first align the clutch with the transmission itself - just take the bellhousing off. At the same time you can also check the distance between engine and transmission.

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Okay, since we are getting creative... I have placed boards or a pallet to span the legs of the hoist, placed the engine on that platform, and then used the hoist to lift the transmission and dangle it in front of the engine for a little weightless finagling into alignment.

Edited by Pokey
Because I can't spell
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Are you pushing the entire hoist, or “swinging” the trans towards the engine?  If you’re “swinging” it, then the height will change.

 

Believe the last time I did this, I put the trans on my jack and balanced it with one hand while I moved the jack/trans towards the engine.  Even easier to do it that way if you have another pair of hands.

 

Thought I’d throw another option out there. 😊

 

Oh, and make sure you have both positioning dowels in either the block or the bellhousing.

 

Steve

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6 hours ago, Rosteri said:

Since everything is still on the floor, you could first align the clutch with the transmission itself - just take the bellhousing off. At the same time you can also check the distance between engine and transmission.

So you're saying to remove the BH, stab in the shaft holding the clutch and cover, and assemble whilst checking the spacing between the block face and transmission face?

This is brilliant!  

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22 hours ago, bball7754 said:

Are you pushing the entire hoist, or “swinging” the trans towards the engine?  If you’re “swinging” it, then the height will change.

 

 

I'm able to position such that they kiss before pushing them together.  It isn't engineering at its best, more like abstract art where I'm just doing a bunch of stuff and then something happens.

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These tips made a huge difference. First I blocked up the engine so the top of the valve cover was horizontal. Then I moved the transmission in close and blocked it up in position. Then I used 4" bolts as shown in the big blue circle to line it up. Picked up the transmission in the middle. Slid right together, no issues. 10 minutes just like its supposed to be. If I had it to do over, I would also use 3/8" threaded rod (or sawed off bolt) in the top holes for extra help.

 

fun fact to know and tell: The bolts which go from the engine side into the bell housing are 10mm x 1.5. The bolts at the top (small blue circle) which go from the bell housing into the engine are 3/8 x16. You can put a 3/8" bolt in a 10mm hole and it will screw in no issues but it will feel a little loose. You will go to Home Depot and come home with a 10mm bolt and it won't fit. :( If you try to put a 10mm bolt in a 3/8" hole, it won't go. This is not the first time I have made such a mistake and probably won't be the last.

 

Thanks again for the help!

20220325_160445 v2.jpg

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