Stevensonjr Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 I’ve just finished 150 road miles on my 7 with DRIVEN 15-50 non synthetic break in oil. The engine is a modified 1500 Kent ford with dual DCOE 40’s, rally cam, new forged pistons, rods, shaved head, 4 into one tubular exhaust,etc. I’d like suggestions on what oil would be best for day to day operations. No track days, just enthusiastic open road, run thru the gears on occasion. Opinions? Thanks, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 (edited) My notes on oil I have collected from several discussions on flat tappet oils with ZDDP ZINC: Driven Racing oil GP1 Brad Penn Lower API spec Shell RotellaT Valvoline VR1 5W30 Joe Gibbs Driven LS30 Performance Motor Oil, Synthetic – 104,487 PSI Zinc: 1610 ppm Phos: 1496 ppm Moly: 0 ppm Calcium: 3515 ppm TBN: 8.8 This oil has too much Zinc & Phos for use in catalytic converter equipped vehicles. It would work well for Race Cars, Street Hotrods and Classic cars. The bottle says it is formulated specifically for high output GM LS engines, and that no ZDDP or additives are required. 5W50 Motorcraft, API SN – 103,517 PSI Zinc: 606 ppm Phos: 742 ppm Moly: 28 ppm Calcium: 1710 ppm TBN: 6.7 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (Silver Bottle) – 103,505 PSI Zinc: 1472 ppm Phos: 1544 ppm Moly: 3 ppm Calcium: 2707 ppm TBN: 7.6 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil, API SL (Black Bottle) – 101,139 PSI Zinc:1180 ppm Phos:1112 ppm Moly: 162 ppm Calcium: 2664 ppm TBN: 7.4 5W30 Chevron Supreme Conventional, API SN – 100,011 PSI Zinc: 1018 ppm Phos: 728 ppm Moly: 161 ppm 10W30 Amsoil Dominator Racing Oil, Synthetic – 97,118 PSI Zinc: 1613 ppm Phos: 1394 ppm Moly: 0 ppm 20W50 Castrol GTX, API SN, Conventional – 96,514 PSI Zinc: 610 ppm Phos: 754 ppm Moly: 94 ppm 30 wt Red Line Race Oil – 96,470 PSI Zinc: 2207 ppm Phos: 2052 ppm Moly: 1235 ppm Not suitable for street use. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, API SN – 96,364 PSI Zinc: 742 ppm Phos: 677 ppm Moly: 81 ppm This is an earlier version of this oil that did not have Dexos 1 approval. See #90 below for the later version of this oil that does have Dexos 1 approval 10W30 Joe Gibbs XP3 NASCAR Racing Oil – 95,543 PSI Zinc: 743 ppm Phos: 802 ppm Moly: 1125 ppm Not suitable for street use. 10W30 Amsoil Z-Rod Oil – 95,360 PSI Zinc: 1431 ppm Phos: 1441 ppm Moly: 52 ppm 5W30 Maxima RS530 Synthetic Racing Oil – 91,162 PSI Zinc: 2162 ppm Phos: 2294 ppm Moly: 181 ppm 10W30 Quaker State Defy High Mileage, API SL, Semi-Synthetic – 90,226 PSI Zinc: 1221 ppm Phos: 955 ppm Moly: 99 ppm There is one other I need to call Craig at Speedstar who carries it. Edited October 3, 2022 by IamScotticus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 https://autosolutionlab.com/best-oil-for-flat-tappet-cam-engine/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted October 4, 2022 Share Posted October 4, 2022 For flat tappets, I use rotella conventional diesel oil changed every 3000 miles. Extending change intervals because syn doesn't break down as quickly is not as good even if just the filter is changed every 3000. The filter still passes smaller material collecting in the oil and can bypass the filter entirely if cold enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted October 7, 2022 Share Posted October 7, 2022 Schaeffers Racing oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted October 7, 2022 Share Posted October 7, 2022 I've been using Redline 5w30 in my Elan for the last few years and more recently in my Seven. It is expensive, but high quality and has the necessary zddp. I was using Brad Penn before that in the Elan, but as I recall I started searching for a different oil when the Penn formulation changed and I couldn't confirm zddp content. The Redline came highly recommended by many at lotuselan.net. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bball7754 Posted October 8, 2022 Share Posted October 8, 2022 This link was posted on ApexSpeed. Thought it was interesting. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/diesel-oil-in-gasoline-engine/ I use Valvoline VR1 in the Caterham, and Brad Penn in the Mallock. Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Stig Posted October 8, 2022 Share Posted October 8, 2022 VR1 for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted October 8, 2022 Share Posted October 8, 2022 Good article "Both types of ZDDP offer anti-wear protection, but the gasoline type of ZDDP provides more protection for higher-speed engines (think bigger valvesprings)". There are different formula of ZDDP for gas and Diesel, and race. There is probably some good info on Bob the oil guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted October 8, 2022 Share Posted October 8, 2022 9 minutes ago, The Stig said: VR1 for me. How do you get it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Stig Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 I just ordered through Amazon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDingo8MyBaby Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 I find the local O'Reilly's carries 20w-50 VR1, but it may be stored behind the counter (I checked first on their website where it was in-stock). It's not that much more than expensive than diesel oil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSXguy Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 i got my vr1 from the local Napa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfGriff Posted October 23, 2022 Share Posted October 23, 2022 I run VR-1 in my street/track Westfield and my '72 MGB GT summer daily. My local guy gives me a deal on a case. Rotella works great in my LR Disco tow vehicle and winter daily. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Just be aware that an oil's specifications will change over time. Motorcycle oils were a popular choice but now even Harleys have cats and phosphorous levels have lowered. Diesel oils are formulated for engine conditions entirely different from what is found in a gasoline engine so tread carefully there. There are sites that do periodic testing so you can double check. Finally, remember that there actually can be too much sometimes. An oil formulated for short, intense uses may not have an additive package suitable for road use. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 (edited) I wouldn't say entirely different. The only generally applicable difference between diesel and gas is the compression ratio and the type of fuel burned. To convert from gas to diesel, remove the throttle and ignition system, raise the compression, and add injectors and a high pressure pump system. As good as an engine designed to be a diesel? Definitely not but it isn't oil related. Less soot in the oil using gas. Edited October 24, 2022 by MV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 (edited) And one other thing, ANY oil is better than no oil. Had a customer running his Peugeot 504 diesel on Esso 20w50HDX. He had an on-going leak that he managed by periodic fill ups. Got to one station and they only had Esso 20w50HD. Decided not to "risk" using an "obviously" inferior oil and kept driving. He, or the engine rather, didn't make it to the next Esso station. Another amusing oil anecdote was with my best friend growing up. His family had a VW van. They ran the cheapest oil possible, and ran it twice as long as recommended. When changing oil, they drained it and then filled and ran it on solvent a bit before draining again and filling with fresh oil -- no, I am NOT making this up! I used to bug him about this all the time. Engine finally blew up and I ragged him pretty hard. He then pointed out that the money they had saved on oil changes had paid for the new engine. I sat down with a calculator and damn if he wasn't right! No, I do not follow his methods now ;-) Edited October 24, 2022 by jbcollier 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 Real people or so funny to watch. Decisions pulled in every direction imaginable. I've seen videos of wornout diesels in runaway, running uncontrollably off their own oil before letting go. Extreme examples for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panamericano Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 8 hours ago, jbcollier said: "Another amusing oil anecdote was with my best friend growing up. His family had a VW van. They ran the cheapest oil possible, and ran it twice as long as recommended. When changing oil, they drained it and then filled and ran it on solvent a bit before draining again and filling with fresh oil -- no, I am NOT making this up! " Yeah, I've known people that fill the crankcase with diesel for a while, then changed the oil. Anyway, back in the day, when there were dedicated VW shops around, the rebuilds were quite cheap. Now you're lucky if you can find a mechanic (excuse me, technician) that knows them at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inchoate Posted October 24, 2022 Share Posted October 24, 2022 I use VR1 mostly because that's what every BD specialist has told me to use. I also run it in some of my old bikes so double win. In the end use whatever you want, just change it when it needs to be changed and keep it topped up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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