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computer for 2002 thru 2004 Ford 4cy fuel injected SVT


HUTCH

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what is the ?scuttle"  and what is RMSCI?  If I found all this stuff the fact would be that the unit does not work as is.  all the replacements have pats what would be the story with the dtuff like the black box?

  

I dot have the blue box

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This is starting to sound like one of those things that the solution was really simple and just not suspect at the time.

I give a lot of credibility to "worked earlier and not now".  I totally believe it did and something changed in that time.  These changes are usually hidden and not obvious.   So, one of the usual suspects is battery.  Are you sure the battery doesn't have any dead cells or there is a loose or corroded connection?

Suspect #2, are all the fuzes good?

 

The the source for help could be a tuner that does Mustangs, Focus, etc.  they are familiar with OE ECUs and hacking them or replacing with an aftermarket ECU.  They may not have your engine but they have the knowledge. 

Edited by IamScotticus
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what is the ?scuttle"  and what is RMSCI?  If I found all this stuff the fact would be that the unit does not work as is.  all the replacements have pats what would be the story with the dtuff like thoe black box?

 

 

That's what I thought,    New battery, same result.  got any idea for tuners somewhat near Conn.?

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Google Focus-Power. They are in Belmont NC. They do remote tunes, via a SCT device, which they will sell you. They specialize in SVT Zetecs.

 

Presumably, they can help troubleshoot the non start issue first to get things rolling? 

 

Then, at a prearranged time, you put your car on a nearby chassis dyno and hook up the SCT device and connect with Focus-Power and they can see/read the dyno results and adjust timing, A/F ratio,etc. 

 

They added 9 hp and 5 lbs of torque to my SVT 2 years ago.

 

Quicksilver Race Engines, in Frederick, MD,  also has a long history of working on Zetecs.

 

Also maybe consider contacting Sevens and Elans in St Augustine FL. The owner  has semi retired but is still doing Caterham and Lotus  repairs/restoration . They were located near Boston for decades and sold more Zetec engined Caterham kits than any one else did. So, the owner, Chris T, may have a suggestion for a Zetec tuner closer to you? 

Edited by Kitcat
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15 hours ago, HUTCH said:

what is the ?scuttle"  and what is RMSCI?  If I found all this stuff the fact would be that the unit does not work as is.  all the replacements have pats what would be the story with the dtuff like thoe black box?

 

 

That's what I thought,    New battery, same result.  got any idea for tuners somewhat near Conn.?

A repair shop may be a better choice. I thought it was at the upstate Ny Cat dealer?

 

Is the fuel pump running? Crank sensor pulsing? Temp sensor in tolerance?

"Yuns waaan I should top up the humanera halogen fluid?"

 

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I'd been having a similar problem with a 2004 Zetec SVT.  I got lots of great guidance from this forum on things to test out, but eventually I ran out of ideas and finally took it to a professional who has some Sevens experience.  After thoroughly checking through all the possible culprits, he also came to the conclusion that it was this PATS problem, and we were about to head down the ECU rabbit hole.  I followed the advice in this discussion to look on Focus technical forums (thanks, @Tabor10 and @Kitcat).  It was certainly not hard to find many examples of Focus PATS problems that sounded far too familiar.

 

One piece of advice that was followed by many Focus owners saying "That Worked!!!" was to disconnect the battery (or in my case just switch off the battery master), put the key in and turn it to on, reconnect the battery and then switch the key off and on again.  Apparently, this can reset the connection between the key chip and the module.  I'll be damned if it didn't work.  Starts right up every time now.  But, I do like the idea of taking the chip out of the key and taping it onto the module.

 

So, I'm not saying this will magically fix your problem, but it's free to try it.  I honestly didn't think it would work, but it did.  At least in my case, @MV8 was spot on about it being a minor thing and easy to "repair".  Honestly, I didn't even know the car had a PATS while I was checking fuel pressure, plugs, crank sensor, phantom battery drain.... on and on.

 

Good luck.

 

  

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33 minutes ago, jordway said:

One piece of advice that was followed by many Focus owners saying "That Worked!!!" was to disconnect the battery (or in my case just switch off the battery master), put the key in and turn it to on, reconnect the battery and then switch the key off and on again.  Apparently, this can reset the connection between the key chip and the module.  I'll be damned if it didn't work.  Starts right up every time now.  But, I do like the idea of taking the chip out of the key and taping it onto the module

 

  

This is golden

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I dont know it this will help anyone. But I have found that corroded ground, {earth} can cause a lot of problems. if it site to long, it builds up a "no connection" film on the connectors. I run into this all the time.  also, Ford at one time had such bad wiring they had a " wiggle " test, grab any wires in suspect area and wiggle them, NO JOKE, that's from Ford.  this was from the late 90s to early 2000s , there wiring was so bad the insulation would rot off and do a lot of shorting damage 

 

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what is the ?scuttle"  and what is RMSCI?  If I found all this stuff the fact would be that the unit does not work as is.  all the replacements have pats what would be the story with the dtuff like the black box?

 

 

TRIED THE KEY AND BATTERY IDEA    NO GO  THE IGNITION SWITCH IS NOT ELECTRONIC   NO PATS SYSTEM   STILL NEED IDEAS

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@HUTCH, if the answer to the problem is to replace the ECU and you are having trouble finding that part, perhaps Raceline can help:  https://www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_section.asp?categoryID=2 &SectionID=43.  Presumably you need the Omex 600, but you would need to check with Raceline and you should also ask what, if anything, you need to do to plug your wiring harness into their ECU.

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Hutch, I am a Master ASE and your responses don't make sense. More ideas are not the answer. I'm sure you are very good at whatever you do or did when working. There is no shame in not understanding newer drive trains designed to make you dependent on the industry. Please take it to a professional, pay the price, and be back on the road. The longer it sits and the more you tinker with it, the more it will cost to repair.

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