ianashdown Posted May 30, 2024 Author Share Posted May 30, 2024 Can anyone let me know if 105E and 120E heads are interchangeable, similar or not alike in any way? Also, can a 105E block be bored to 83.5mm dia? Thanks, Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted May 30, 2024 Share Posted May 30, 2024 Similar and generally interchangeable, but some significant differences. The biggest difference is the 105e is a 3 bearing block and the 120e (116e) is a 5 bearing, so preferable. The old Dave Bean catalogue has some great information on engine blocks, if you have one. Some of that may be online now. There are also some good online resources for Kent Ford engines - google that and Cortina and formula Ford as I recall. The following link is to a thread that includes an unpublished book by an enthusiast. A phenomenal resource. https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=52339 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianashdown Posted June 4, 2024 Author Share Posted June 4, 2024 Can anyone confirm that a Twin Cam will fit under the Hood/Nose on a Series 2 Seven or not? My 105E block is damaged beyond economic repair and I’m trying to make a decision between building a mildly tuned 120E or possibly a Twin Cam, which would make the Seven quite exciting even in near standard tune. Thank you, Ian San Clemente, CA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pethier Posted June 4, 2024 Share Posted June 4, 2024 52 minutes ago, ianashdown said: Can anyone confirm that a Twin Cam will fit under the Hood/Nose on a Series 2 Seven or not? My 105E block is damaged beyond economic repair and I’m trying to make a decision between building a mildly tuned 120E or possibly a Twin Cam, which would make the Seven quite exciting even in near standard tune. Thank you, Ian San Clemente, CA A modern twin cam of some sort might make more sense than a Lotus Twin Cam. I'm wondering if a ford Zetec will fit in my 1700 Super Sprint, since I already bought one out of a Birkin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted June 4, 2024 Share Posted June 4, 2024 I expect the twin cam head would clear an S2. The pinto, lima, and cvh are similar in height to the xflow. Zetec and duratec are very close to each other in height. Toyota 4age, 22r, and Dodge slant six (too long) are in between the two ford groups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toldfield Posted June 4, 2024 Share Posted June 4, 2024 (edited) I don't know if this will help, but... https://www.anglocanadianlotus7.ca/the-first-official-twin-cam-engined-seven-in-1965/ The twincam fits just fine in my S-3. I'm Altadena if you want to come up and look and/or take some measurements. A modern engine would be just fine but it wouldn't make the swell sound that comes from the twincam... Tom Edited June 4, 2024 by toldfield 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted June 4, 2024 Share Posted June 4, 2024 Tony Ingram (lotus7.com) or Mike Ostrov would be the folks I'd contact - if anyone has done it I suspect they'd be aware. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianashdown Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 A couple of questions for the knowledge collective. What is the width of the original rear fenders? What size of tires fill these a bit more than the original skinny ones, but still look original-ish size? I’m thinking of using Elan bolt on wheels. Brake tubing. What is the suggested material to bend the hard lines from. I like the idea of stainless, but is it difficult to bend. Copper doesn’t seem right, but I think bronze may have used in the past. Also, I seem to recall that someone made a pre-bent brake line kit, but cannot remember who. Any ideas who? Last question. Has anyone who has done a frame up restoration ever put together a sequence of re-assembly? It might help prevent having to back-track. Thank you, Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 7 hours ago, ianashdown said: may have used in the past Forget that. This is a race car. Use the best parts available today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianashdown Posted January 10 Author Share Posted January 10 (edited) 44 minutes ago, IamScotticus said: Forget that. This is a race car. Use the best parts available today. So stainless braided brake lines? Certainly easier than trying to get perfect bends. Having said that, many Formula Fords built in the UK in the day used Bundy tube in the chassis, then Aeroquip to each wheel. The race engineer in me says Aeroquip, the preservationist says hard tube. This car will be no race car! Ian Edited January 10 by ianashdown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 8 hours ago, ianashdown said: Brake tubing. What is the suggested material to bend the hard lines from. I like the idea of stainless, but is it difficult to bend. Copper doesn’t seem right, but I think bronze may have used in the past. Also, I seem to recall that someone made a pre-bent brake line kit, but cannot remember who. Any ideas who? Never use copper line. Nickel-copper is the good stuff. You could use galvanized or epoxied steel that are preassembled with fittings as they are much more difficult to flare with hand tools. You local parts store stocks them in the back in various lentghs from about a foot to six feet long with an assortment of fittings and line diameters. They also have the "nicopp" line in coils and looks traditional. That is what I'd use with the original fittings. Beware of copper looking brake line coils from China sold on ebay. Unlikely to have any nickel content. AGS is a good mfg for brake lines and fittings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Petty Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Original fenders are 8" and I got a pair from Tony Ingram a while back. My original fenders were in pretty bad shape and getting them ready for paint was going to be very expensive, plus I had 2 right fenders! I normally use my magnesium American Racing Silverstone wheels wheels: 5 1/2 x 13 with Kumho 155x13 Solus tires. I also have a set of Elan wheels with 155x13 Kumho Solus tires and they fit well. I suspect 165x13 tires will fit, but I have never tried them. When I got the car, it had Goodyear Blue Streak racing tires from the 1970's: Front 5.00x13, Rear 4.75/8.50x13 You may want to look at Simple Sevens and get a feel for how cars look with different fenders and tires. Yeah, anything but copper for brake lines! I used regular steel with aeroquip fittings and braided hoses. The story is that Lotus was prohibited from selling an assembly manual, so they sold a dis-assembly manual that you read back to front for assembly. I have never seen one, but there are early publications that may be helpful. My car came with the Weale and Ortenburger books which are both very helpful but I believe are out of print! Regards and Good Luck - Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Yes! Tony Weale's book is a must https://www.amazon.com/Lotus-Seven-Preparation-Restoration-Maintenance/dp/185532153X/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1HDNYOF53C816&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.QOkmIaYqAgo1KUXwrYwa1A.0jVhqJiVWjqDi7vTRVmv6pMcsw3auMRT7jirEj5XQdg&dib_tag=se&keywords=Tony+Weale+Lotus+7&qid=1736527033&sprefix=tony+weale+lotus+7%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianashdown Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 Next thing to turn my attention to is the rear axle. I plan to use the original, Standard 10, axle which has been upgraded to take a Rod End for the ‘A’ attachment, but nothing else. I expect the engine, when built, will be about 100-120 HP, and I’ll be keeping the wheels to 4.5”, so not mega amounts of power or grip. Should the internals of the axle be upgraded and if so, with what. I believe TR7 was the recommended source, but these are not easily found in the US I’d think. I do believe the axle should be strengthened externally however. I’ve read that Chris Beebe is done upgrading axles, so I’m wondering if anyone knows someone in SoCal who has a fixture to induce some toe-in and maybe a little negative camber before welding the strengthening plate or tube. From experience can anyone suggest how much toe and/or camber should be induced before welding? Thank you, Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 How much should be induced? Zero is best for reliability of the side gears and spiders. The misalignment created changes the gear mesh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdb Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 I wouldn't discount finding a TR7 rear axle in the US. Triumph was selling 20,000+ cars per year in the US during that time. Not all of them were TR7s of course, but I worked at a BLMC dealership at the time and they sold quite a few. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 Read: Link to Triumph Spitfire, Marima/Ital & 4spd TR7 for pumpkin parts. General consensus is other than axle length and splines, many diff parts interchange. Rimmer Bros is your friend. Many parts on Moss, Spitbits, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianashdown Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 7 hours ago, MV8 said: How much should be induced? Zero is best for reliability of the side gears and spiders. The misalignment created changes the gear mesh. The idea is to induce some misalignment so that after welding it all comes back to zero. I’m just not sure how much shrinkage takes place and therefore how much to pre-load. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 Tack the full brace so it acts to hold the alignment that exists, then stitch weld in an alternating pattern. If it is not straight to begin with, a rose bud tip to straighten. 3/16 thick plates bolted to the ends, with an offset tab drilled for a 1/2 inch threaded rod can be used to fine tune the spring back to being straight. A little tension, then heat and adjust tension, cool, release tension and recheck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anduril3019 Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 If the goal is zero toe and zero camber, what's a reasonable tolerance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now