Wheel hub adaptor

[NeoBear]

Morning everyone,

 

So, I recently had a moment. I was on my way home on the freeway doing about 70ish mph when my rear passenger wheel decided to yeet itself off into the unknown.

 

It all happened so fast I couldn't believe it. Damaged fender, completely gutted wheel studs and a broken taillight. Honestly, I feel like I got off lucky could have been a lot worse.

 

When I showed a friend of mine the photo of the aftermath, as soon as he saw my wheel adaptor he got triggered and basically said that it is the most unsafe thing ever. It is not something I am looking to change but I just wanted to see what everyone's general opinion is I feel like the idea behind the adaptor is both to clear the calipers and get the standard Seven bolt pattern. 

[JohnCh]

The remnants of what looks like Teflon tape makes me wonder if this is a torque issue?  Either the studs were over stretched given the reduced friction from the tape, or the lug nuts were under torqued and eventually backed off.  Do you recall the last time you checked the lug nuts?

 

-John

[NeoBear]

Oh, to be clear I 100% blame myself for this. It had been months since I last checked the wheels for Torque. I am convinced either the nuts backed off or the studs/nuts just failed. 

[fastg]

Not sure what the tape is all about. But it looks to me that 2 studs are intact and 2 snapped? So I would guess 2 nuts fell off and the other 2 gave up. 

 

Graham 

[JohnCh]

One thing that is often overlooked by people running bolt-on adapters is to periodically confirm the bolts holding the adapter to the hub are still properly torqued.  Out of sight, out of mind.  Obviously not the issue here, but as long as the wheels are off...

[NeoBear]

No yeah in order to replace the studs I had to take the adapter off and it was on snug in fact after I get the fender repaired, I may replace the bolts for the adaptor as well, they looked rough to me.

 

So, when I see people running spacers, I sometimes hear people say how unsafe that is and I was wondering do people feel the same about wheel adaptors. I think Fastg was right and that two studs/nuts just failed. I also think it was likely my fault for not doing like my monthly or bi-monthly check. Just wanted to see if others had had any bad experience running wheel adaptors. 

 

Edited January 24 by NeoBear

[JohnCh]

It's just one data point, but I've been running H&R bolt in spacers on the rear of my Westfield since 2006.  When researching them at the time, there were no issues using them in various racing series provided the studs were suitably long for the wheels.  I took that as a sign they were fine for my application. 

 

-John

[fastg]

Are wheel spacers the best solution, no. But if there well designed they are safe and effective. When I first got my Locost it has strange steel wheels. To get some modern style Aluminum wheels and stay within the fender I had to run large spacers.  I was not happy about the situation, but they worked without an issue. I did not like it as a long term solution so I re-engineered the front suspension to make them unnecessary. I did consider them a high maintenance piece,  checking the torque on the spacer and wheel frequently. 

 

Graham 

[MV8]

From what I can see, that is a well made spacer/adapter but the socket head hardware is too long or should have a fully threaded shank and likely damaged the threads in the hub, though that is not what failed. I'd determine if the threads cut into the bolts extend beyond the adapter face or if they were just repurposed for this (either way, replace with correct length). I think those strands are aluminum from inside the wheel hoop as it departed. I expect loose lug nuts and snapping of the two like Fastg suggested.

I try to avoid spacer adapters, but I have a pair on the rear of a full size dodge d100 pickup for late model ram 17x7.5 stainless wheels to clear the d100 inner fender/bed. 3.55 axle, 727, 318 with long tube headers, no issues for the five or so years they've been installed. There are plenty of junk adapters, spacers, and improper selection and installations but it can be done properly. This is fine.

[7Westfield]

Get longer bolts with the proper grip length, then shorten the threads with a cutoff wheel, if needed

Loctite

[wdb]

Is the center hole in the wheel a close fit over the standoff on the adapter? I.e. is it a hub centric wheel.  If not then yes it’s dangerous. 
 

In 50+ years of driving I have never routinely checked lug nut torque. Never lost a wheel or even a lug nut. If it were a race car then rhestory would be different of course. 

[MV8]

A concentric hub pilot is usually more accurate but we are only talking about a very small amount of run out (more in the tires and some rims). It simplified wheel installation for emergency installation on the side of the road by less technically inclined folks and is usually lug centric with conical lugs. When a conical lug, concentric hub wheel is used on a hub without a pilot, it is not dangerous but it may have excess vibration (like a bad tire or bent rim) if not installed properly by lightly seating the lugs and rim to the hub, then raising the torque in steps to spec for the stud size in a cross-pattern.

A concentric hub also provides some additional stability but if all the lugs are torqued, it isn't needed.

I remember when lug centric aftermarket wheels had thick aluminum center sections and lugs with washers/no taper as well as unilug washers with slotted rims for multiple pcd. Tires were not great either. Some things are much better.