Super Seven S2 Clutch Issues

[EdWills]

Hi TEM.  Glad to hear that your bellhousing/gearbox unit was fitted to the engine successfully.  I still remember a local tuning shop in my city working on a Lotus 23C. I had popped in to pick up some parts, and I was permitted to watch the gearbox and bellhousing being fitted on to the rear of the car. I think that the mechanic lacked some experience doing the work (the shop owner on the other hand was very fastidious, but not present unfortunately!).  The car owner - who was assisting - was mortified when the mechanic produced a large hammer (Birmingham screwdriver) to slot the very expensive Hewland gearbox and bellhousing into the twin-cam engine..  The mechanic had misaligned the clutch plate after securing the clutch cover, and thought that the hammer would solve the problem.  At the same time, the car owner and I raised our voices in harmony to stop the mechanic from damaging the end of the Hewland case. How the 'mechanic' got the job is unknown, but he didn't last long at the shop unfortunately for him.

 

For anyone contemplating a clutch refit on a Series 2 or 3, Pegasus U.S. sells a clutch alignment tool to fit a 7/8" x 20 tooth clutch plate (common size for Seven clutches back then) for $9.99 U.S.  Well worth it if you need to change the clutch. Cheers W.

[MV8]

Ed,

no matter how good the reputation of a shop, you may end up with the newest addition. The broom handle behind the shoulders and through the coverall sleeves is effective. In aviation, they are called "flash light holders".

[MV8]

Also, the clutch alignment tool sets cost about $20 if you can't make your own. They unclude the pin, various diameter ends to provide a close tolerance fit to the pilot bush/bearing for centering the pin, and sleeves with different tapers to engage the clutch hub.

 

You could have also have loosely clamped the pressure plate for a test fit of the trans out of the car, then carefully pulled the trans to fully tighten the pressure plate and reinstall the trans.

[TEM]

Engine and transmission are back in the car and the first drive was successful, no issues shifting even after a prolonged run.  The sticky substance on the clutch disc was the cause of the shifting issues.

 

Thanks everyone for your input.

[SENC]

Excellent, enjoy!

[TEM]

Did about 5 miles today and noticed a pretty good oil leak coming from what I think is the new rope seal I installed.  This seal was a little tricky to install since it hadn't take a shape yet so wanted to move all over the place.  I thought I had it in correctly but apparently not.  I'll have to drop the pan again tomorrow and see what up.  if anyone see anything else in this picture, or has some trick to install this seal, please let me know.

 

[toldfield]

See if this helps…

 

oops bad link

 

 

 

 

Edited July 26 by toldfield
Bad link

[toldfield]

This should work...

 

https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=21489

[TEM]

Yes, very helpful, thank you.  I did not soak the rope seal before installing.  Will give that a try tomorrow.  Hopefully, 5 miles is not enough to burn/harden the dry seal.  Apparently, cutting them longer (1/8 vs 1/32) also helps.

[MV8]

I know crossflows have a bolt-on rear main one-piece seal adapter. I'm not familiar with the design of the rear main seal on a pre-crossflow. Usually the crank flange is bigger than the seal area and rear main bearing cap has the seal cavity built into it. The crank must be lowered in order to fit the upper rope properly, though they make a "cheater" upper rope installation tool  that may not works so well. They often have a locating pin in the seal cavity to prevent the seal from spinning with the crankshaft. The ropes used to be asbestos which worked well, then those were eliminated followed by zinc in the oil to help keep things slippery.

[SENC]

I used a Best Gasket graphtite product alternative, after reading a great article on it.  So far so good.  Will try to find that article and share this evening.

[TEM]

MV8, Pre-Xflow's install the rope seal into a grove in the oil pan, separate from the bearing.  And from experience, it's a real pain to change with the engine in the car.  The rope seal was no problem as that is fitted into the pan on the bench.  The issues I had were trying the keep the cork pan gaskets in the right place, especially in the rear, and trying to reinstall the front seal while installing the pan at the same time.  Removing the engine is easier and less frustrating.

 

New, soaked seal was installed and I cut the ends proud by 1/8".  This seemed to do the trick.  No oil leaks after a 20 mile run.  If a new leak forms, I'll switch to Best Gasket or similar alternative.

 

Old seal with 5 miles on it.  Was leaking at the upper right hand corner.  Leaving the seal proud by 1/16" was not enough and oil leaked past the gap

[fastg]

Superglue the cork gasket to the pan, just a few dabs in the right locations and the gasket will stay in place nicely.

 

Graham

[SENC]

Attached is the article and below a picture with the part number that fits our sumps.

 

Re the cork gasket, I used Wellseal - first applying it sump-side.  Then I flipped the sump upside down and added a touch of weight and allowed it to sit overnight.  This kept the gaskets from moving around on install.  Another good option is to replace the bolts with studs/nuts as the studs keep everything in line.  I can't remember if RD Ent carry them, but if not one of the usual Brit suppliers do.

 

RopeSealArticle.pdf

 

[IamScotticus]

Hylomar, anyone?

[pethier]

On 7/26/2024 at 6:06 PM, TEM said:

 

 

 

Sidbar:  I used to have an Elise that color.  Bordeaux Red Pearl was supposed to be rare, but at one time I knew there were 4 of them in the Twin Cities.